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Champion Tri-Fuel Inverter 201176

21K views 163 replies 8 participants last post by  highwater  
#1 · (Edited)
Edit: Storm can project starts on page 4.

Couldn't find anything here on the forum about this one, so I'll be the guinea pig I guess.
I needed to get something on site and running before I needed it, and my little 3 cyl Kubota project is not finished.
I looked at the 9k, 12k and such that seem to be advertised alot currently.
Then I thought, you have a Champion 3 inch trash pump, just look and see if they have any genny with the same engine, and you would already have some spare parts on hand maybe.

No luck there. The trash pump is a 195cc, and Champion only uses that engine on the trash pump.

But while I was looking at their stuff I happened across this Tri-Fuel Inverter.
I have been reading here about some folks having trouble with the late model appliances not running on the rotary gens, so I started digging into the specs on this one.

The one negative that I found was they use Copper clad Aluminum in the windings.
But I won't be running it that hard, so we'll see how that works.

The running watts on NG is spec'd at 5875 minus 3.5% for each 1000 ft. ASL altitude (1008ft) (176w) so that leaves ~5700w. LPG is slightly better.
NG will be my primary fuel with LPG secondary.
I had already stubbed up 1 and 1/4 inch for the gen when I installed an on demand water heater several years ago.
The gas company came out and swapped the meter out to accommodate that demand.
I told them at that time, about a possible future generator on the same line, and they told me they could turn this meter up and put a regulator on the output, and get the BTU output of the line up.
At that time we were talking about a much larger stationary gen, so we'll see how this works.

I have a 6 circuit 110v only manual transfer switch already installed for critical loads.

I tried to find some spark plug options but not too many of those out yet.
The factory plug is a Torch I guess, F7RTJC. Again I searched this forum with no luck on that.
Manual says equivalent is Bosch F7KJCR. Again no luck on searching forum.
I did find a replacement for the Bosch online, an NGK 1263 BP6ET.
Took all these numbers to my local NAPA in town and should have 2 of the NGK here today.

Comes packaged very well. Backed my pickup up to the freight truck, and slid it into my truck.
No damage, packaged very well.
Got it unpacked.
I've tried turning this pic every direction and the forum turns it when I post it. Oh well.
(EDIT rotated pic.)

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Got the wheels, handle, etc., installed.
This genny come with a bonded neutral, so you have to unbond it unless you are going to use it for constuction or off-site stuff.
Champion has a video of what to do for this on their website.
I didn't trust electrical tape by itself to wrap the Neutral so I put 2 layers long ways over the eyelet then put some shrink wrap over it

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(EDIT rotated pic.)And that one turned also when I post it.

I also tried to find magnetic drain plug and dipstick. No luck.
I sent Champion parts an email asking them if they knew where I could find those.

“We recommend a magnetic drain plug instead since we are unsure if any dipsticks will have a guaranteed fit. You can find magnetic drain plugs from our friends at SuperGen Products: You searched for magnetic” - SuperGen Products
Juan from Champion Power Equipment

When I went to see what size to order I see this.
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And that one came in right. I don't know.

Anyway I just started trying to find the magnetic before I even looked at the gen.
Not going to mess with the drain.

Got the oil in, and it comes with both hoses for the gaseous fuels, so I'm close to getting it fired up for break-in.
I have a 1 inch valve on the gas line for the gen with what looks like a 3/4 bore. I'll have to measure to be for sure, but I need a reducer bushing to 1/2 inch for the hose that came with it.

I am also finishing my wiring and connections from the outside to the manual transfer switch. I'll post more pics as I go.

I appreciate you guys being here. I enjoy reading this forum.
Randall
 
#35 ·
Finished off the second 5 hrs. This is at 10 hrs on the machine.

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So far so good with this one.
Been starting real easy.

Now I've got to get on with an enclosure, so I don't have to roll it from the garage to the other end of the house to hook it up, and get it out of the garage.

And I've still got to get the propane going. We've lived here 35 years and the only time the natural gas has been down in the area was, you guessed it, dead of Winter, howling North wind and some nasty precip coming down.

Randall
 
#36 ·
Had a nice day today so I did the silicone grease in the connector plugs.
Take the gasoline tank off and everything there is easy to get to.
Everything in the white and clear connectors.
The stuff going into the back of the fuel selector is potted.
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That's the CO detector in the lower right hand corner of the pic.

There is another bunch below the starter.
Helps to take off that end panel where the battery is.
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Also did the SAE DC battery connector.

Randall
 
#40 ·
I want to get propane on site as a second choice fuel. I do have a 20lb exchange bottle that is/was on the gas grill.
I have settled on 2 tank split running, with another 2 tanks on auto change regulator. I plan on doing the Mopeka gauge. Other threads on this forum have been very helpful in determining what I want to do.

I have my mind pretty well made up on 40lb'ers. There is just not enough boy left here to heft around the 100lb tanks.
Pricing them, I could get 100 lb'ers for about 20 bucks more than I'm going to spend for 40 lb'ers, but, I just don't see myself getting full 100lb bottles out of the back end of the truck. And yeah, there are ways to do it.
Plus they are about 48 inches tall and that is twice as deep as the bed of the truck.

So I have learned that the 20,30, and 40 are all the same diameter, which is roughly 12 and a quarter to 12 and a half inches, depending on who wrote the info. The 100's are about 15 inches, IIRC.

Reading the online info of the available places near where I live, that do refilling of the small RV size tanks, I learned a little about transporting the small tanks.
One of the things I read said, Don't drive up in a passenger vehicle and pull your tank out of the car and expect us to fill it. We cannot put a filled tank back in your enclosed vehicle. You must transport filled containers in open air.
And, they must be secured in the upright position when full.

Since I will most likely buy my tanks at one of the (farm and ranch) stores that also fill them, I need to have my transportation act together before I buy tanks.

I have ruled out used tanks.

My Ford truck has the BoxLink brackets in the bed, and all the e-track stuff will work with those brackets.
Did a lot of figuring on what I would need to secure the tanks in the bed, and had a lot of stuff in my shopping cart to be able to secure 4 individual tanks in place.

Continued in next post.
 
#41 · (Edited)
I just don't see myself getting full 100lb bottles out of the back end of the truck. And yeah, there are ways to do it.
We have an off-grid cottage a couple hundred yards from the road. The gas delivery guys sometimes complain about lugging the hundred pound tanks back in there, but they have really nice dollies for lowering the tanks off the truck and bringing them in the narrow trail.
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The final 50 feet..
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#42 ·
So, I'm thumbing through Marketplace and came across one of these.
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Add said Cambro Plate Dolly. 50 bucks.
No model number or measurements.

I could see a dinner plate being about 12 inches in diameter, so I googled for more info.

Just comparing pictures I found this. cambro-adjustable-dish-caddy-black.html

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Plate sizes: 9-1/4″ to 13″ diam.
4 Columns (60 each)
Total Capacity: 240

Spec sheet says capacity is 500 lbs.

So I committed to buying it.
It only had one of the dividers with it, so I had to come up with a way to secure tanks in it.
 
#45 ·
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I had 6 of the strap/buckle things so I'll use 4 of them on this cart.
The web straps had a hole burnt in them already, but I wanted a way to spread the foot print of the fender washers out, so again, I found these nylon gizmos in my extensive pile of crap.
Had to go to town to get 8 fender washers the same size. ARGH

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#46 ·
I used 1/4x20 threaded rivets that I had on hand.
Did a trial hole on the bottom to see if they would work.
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I couldn't pull the insert out with vise-grips, so I called it good.
I discovered this thing is foam filled when I drilled the holes.

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#47 ·
These 20lb tanks are 18 inches tall. The 40lb will be 30 inches tall IIRC.
I am still thinking on getting the tops of the tanks secured when the 40's stick up above the dolly a few inches.

I have some solid tire/wheels that will work if this gets tipsy when loaded down.
I will put solid axles in place of the swivel casters and mount the wheels outboard.

If you guys see anything that needs attention on this idea, PLEASE speak up.

I'll have more later,
Randall
 
#50 ·
some city's have limits on how much LP on a property as well.
they have this here at my location.
part of the fire department rules.
same on gasoline.
and is lower quantity's inside storage structures.
but you can get permits from the DNR for more storage
and you need to clear post on structures what is stored and how much.
 
#51 ·
some city's have limits on how much LP on a property as well.

part of the fire department rules
Yeah, I will go into town and talk to the Fire Chief on the storage aspects.
They would be the ones to take the call, although we are rural and there would be 3 or 4 other depts. showing up.
Had a combine fire a quarter mile south of me about a month ago. Lots of water trucks showed up.
Whenever I burn a brush pile I always call in and let them know.

This is what the 30 inch tall tank would look like.

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#52 ·
ahhh
yea out in the sticks and not in a housing development.
big TANKS are the right thing for the fuel.

transport on LP on the streets and high way is another BIG thing.
so check in with dot rules on tank transport.
but a bulk tank delivery to a large tank is a proper way to go.
 
#54 ·
Just a brief update, after a test run yesterday before this negative 30 F windchill crap got here.
Under load for about 30 minutes. Forgot to check the clock. Parked the valves when done.

I had taken the battery out and brought it inside, so there is now an extra step in getting the gen running, although its not a problem at all.

I did go into town and talk to the fire dept about the storage of the smaller portable tanks.
Must have been a slow day there. I ask for the Chief by name, and he was tied up, but sent out one of his fireman to talk to me. Before it was all over there were 5 or 6 firemen on my side of the glass talking about propane generators.
The local rule is a permanent bulk tank must be 10 ft. away from the structure.
They said the little tanks could be fastened to the house if I wanted, like an RV.
They were most concerned about the location of the gen from the structure openings.

I also have gone to the nearest Atwoods which is one of the fill points and talk to the person that does the filling of the small tanks. Nothing new learned there. Must be upright and secured for transport and an open air vehicle.

Nothing to update on the gen shack. I've got a plan in my head and been looking at what I have on hand to put that together.
 
#55 ·
I registered purely to thank @highwater for this thorough walkthrough of this generator. I have the same unit, and was beyond frustrated trying to find compatible parts for it. I don't know if it's because it's still a newish model or what, but finding the info here was a huge help. I was able to get the dipstick and drain plug mentioned here and they both work perfect. My one question to you, highwater, is do you have any tips for changing the oil? It seems the quick drain hose was added not for convenience, but more for necessity. With the plug set back so far and all the "clutter" for lack of a better word in front of it, it seems like once I finish my break-in period it's going to be a pain to change the oil without making a mess. I'm already thinking I might need to remove the battery just to open more access when I do it.

Thanks again for the great information.
 
#56 ·
Hi @201176. Love your avatar. HAHA.
My one question to you, highwater, is do you have any tips for changing the oil?
Back in post #26 on page 2, I used a wood block to prop up the battery end of the gen. I have since made that into a "permanent" fixture that I use to change oil.
I'll take a picture after it gets daylight, and explain how I use it to change oil.

Since I also removed the battery and brought it inside, I have left the lower end panel off where you get to the battery.

That end panel is really just cosmetic IMHO, unless you are throwing the gen around in the back of a truck for construction, etc, it might provide some protection for the battery.

And Genknot provided the info for the magnetic stuff. Thanks to him and other members here.
 
#58 ·
From the day after (13th) the last exercise run which was on the 12th until today, we had not seen the sun.
Most of the time you couldn't see the tops of the line poles.
Fog, low ceiling. mist, rain, ice, freakin wind.
Then today......
Image
 
#63 ·
From the day after (13th) the last exercise run which was on the 12th until today, we had not seen the sun.
Most of the time you couldn't see the tops of the line poles.
Fog, low ceiling. mist, rain, ice, freakin wind.
Then today......
Nice pic highwater! The winter here (Ont) last year was a dark one, supposedly one of the darkest on record? I know that great feeling when the sun and blue skies finally come out again!
 
#59 ·
So I waited until the frost burned off to take some requested pitchurs of my oil change process.
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Thats the cover that I leave off for easier access to plug the battery in, and do an oil change.
The wood block contraption is to raise up the oil change end so I can swap out the magnetic drain plug for the drain hose.

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I do turn the gen around 180 to get to the drain, from the posistion I run it when connected to the house.
The 2x6 piece could be a little longer to catch the width of both wheels.
When its propped up this way I remove the magnetic drain plug and screw the factory hose back in. Finger tight works fine.
 
#60 ·
Once the drain hose is back in place, I take the wood block out and move the gen to where the hose can fall off the concrete and into the old style 1 gallon paint thinner, etc type metal can(see previous posts).

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Put the wood block there so there was a reference to the height of the slab.

This extra height allows the old body some relief from getting all the way down on the ground.
Pretty sure the gen shack is going to have a rack to get the gen up higher.
 
#61 ·
I had gone out and looked at some items that I knew I had in mind for the gen shack.
It is going on the south end of the house, and spring time severe weather comes from the southwest generally, so I figure on anchoring to the slab and probably back to the strut-channel stuff that is also anchored to the slab.
The shell will all be metal, as well as the rack that I plan to put the genny on.

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#64 · (Edited)
Update: Picture problem solved/fixed. Really don't know what the deal was.

Yeah, still around. Been a year and a half since an update.
Everyone knows how life gets in the way of projects, but I have been able to make some progress on the enclosure for the genny.

I'll post a pic of the current condition, then go back and go through the process.

It will be picture heavy so I hope folks don't have trouble downloading.

I've gone a different direction with the enclosure than the previous plan.

Hope you enjoy.

"The uploaded file was not an image as expected."

OK, what file extensions are accepted? Won't take a jpg.

Edit---Also tried jpeg
Also went back and checked my earlier pics that I posted. They are jpg
 
#65 · (Edited)
Edit: Problem solved I think.

motormonkey

can you advise on the above issue
I also tried changing the name of the pic. It had an underscore in it.
Tried starting a new thread.
Still cannot unload pics.

Thanks Randall