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Discussion starter · #101 ·
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The jack had to be operated from what I'll call the back side, because the mechanism would interfere with gen when at max elevation.
This produced a problem with the casting on the jack base colliding with the upright. I think you can see a mark there here that happened.
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So I whacked it off.
Yeah I know, voided the warranty. Not the first time, won't be the last. haha
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Discussion starter · #102 · (Edited)
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This is full tilt on the jack. You can see how the interference would be with the jack operated from the front side.
The plastic cover on the gen is not in a bind, just barely touching the cylinder rod.
Also in this pic, you can see I moved the winch from the top of the overarm, and welded the plate to the upper mast that swivels. I needed all the vertical room inside the can that I could get. It's just high enough for the cable to stay off the arms when the boom is lowered.

Also note in this pic, I used one of the original cross members to weld the lower mast plate onto.
It is mounted back in the original spot.
 
Discussion starter · #103 · (Edited)
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I did some figuring and came up with some amount that I could cut off the lower mast.
You can see where I cut the outer tube off just below where it was welded to the male upper piece, and then cut off what I needed, and welded the female swivel piece back in.

I just went out and looked at my scrap pile. I cut off 13 1/2 inches from the lower tube.

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I was getting alot of twist in the hoist mounting when loaded up with the gen, so I used the other cross member to stay the movement. Had to drill and tap for that. Mounted down side up and pressed against the mast.
Problem solved. Failed to get it painted. That silver metallic paint didn't work very well, as you can see.

Also, while on the hoist subject, I had to cut length off both the inner and outer boom arms to get what I needed to fit inside the can.
May be able to see that in a coming picture, if not, I'll get one later.
 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
Needed to clean up my folder of all these pics so I could see what I had left.

Here is the little indicator that I spoke of previously.

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Discussion starter · #105 ·
Back to the hoist inside the can.

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This is with the boom arms cut off.
The pickup point needed to be over center of gravity on the gen, or when the gen was picked up it would have swung and hit the inside of the can on the right end.

Both of these pics are before I put the anti-twist against the barrel of the hoist.

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Discussion starter · #106 · (Edited)
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Securing the gen so it doesn't move around.
I put some 1/4 inch bolts up through the square tubing cross braces.
They will NOT get a nut. Basically just a pin for alignment. Gen needs to stay in one spot, because of the fuel line and the exhaust, although both of those have flex.
One on the front and one on the opposite side on the back, both where I could get to them when sitting the gen back in place.
Also rubber pads on 4 corners.

These 2 pics are the one under the air filter.

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Looking at that last picture reminds me to discuss airflow with you. When I built my generator shed, it was important to reinforce the existing airflow through the generator. The internal generator air flow is from the recoil starter (flywheel) area towards the generator head/exhaust. I would assume that your inverter unit would be similar, so you may want to direct the inlet air towards the recoil end and then use your fan(s) to draw the air through the generator and out through your exit port. Here is the airflow diagram from my Onan that I use on the island that illustrates it (except that the generator head is at the fan/intake end)...
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Discussion starter · #108 ·
Looking at that last picture reminds me to discuss airflow with you. When I built my generator shed, it was important to reinforce the existing airflow through the generator. The internal generator air flow is from the recoil starter (flywheel) area towards the generator head/exhaust. I would assume that your inverter unit would be similar, so you may want to direct the inlet air towards the recoil end and then use your fan(s) to draw the air through the generator and out through your exit port. Here is the airflow diagram from my Onan that I use on the island that illustrates it (except that the generator head is at the fan/intake end)...
Thanks Tabora,
Yes the air flow in this gen is from the recoil starter, across the head, and then across the exhaust.
I have already changed my blower setup, which pictures of, I've haven't got to yet, and can still modify again after some runtime and testing.

One of the things on my to do list is monitoring temps. I have an 8 channel TC board that I used on an ancient project, that I will put into play and be able to see temps in 8 places.

I'll post a pic of that.

I do appreciate your input.
 
Discussion starter · #109 ·
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This is the TC board that I will use to monitor temps in the can for a period of time.
Have to get the old laptop out for that.
I will get it in place before summer and see what its like in the can on a hot August day.

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Discussion starter · #110 ·
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Back to the pins to hold the gen inplace.
This is the one on the control panel end.
I moved the ground to a different point and used that hole for the posistion pin.
 
Discussion starter · #111 ·
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Now for the exhaust. I wanted the muffler on the outside of the can.
I also wanted it to be square and level, and the end of the can is curved.
This is where the pump flange that I showed earlier comes in.
I can weld the pipe nipple to the adapter plate at whatever angle it needs to be after I get the muffler straight and level. You will see some exhaust flanges in the plumbing that I ordered off the net from the minibike guys.
There is also one on the engine.
 
Discussion starter · #113 ·
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Hopefully, the can itself doesn't get hot since the adapter plate and the pump flange housing are taking on most of the heat.
 
Discussion starter · #115 · (Edited)
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Support for the muffler.

Actually did all this before i welded the nipple in.

Added some angle iron for the rain shed over the muffler.

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Discussion starter · #117 ·
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Dry fitting the rain shed. The little piece of angle needs to be bigger to go back farther to mount to the roof.
That will be a rigid support for the vertical exhaust. I don't want the force on the muffler itself. There is another exhaust adapter for the vertical exhaust but it got painted before I took the pic.
 
Discussion starter · #118 ·
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All done on the outside exhaust work in this pic except painting the bolt heads white.

Trying to keep rust trails from running on white paint.
 
Discussion starter · #120 ·
I have run the gen on a 30-45 minute loaded run once the exhaust was finished up.
I walked out to the county road to see how loud it was. I'll have to get a pic from that vantage point.
Was windy when I did this and could just hear it over the wind. It's still pretty noisy on the end where the exhaust is, opposite the road

Had good warm air coming out all of the overhead vents with the blower running. Had it on high speed setting.
I felt around on the outside of the can for heat and found that right adjacent to the exhaust coming out of the head, which @tabora has mentioned, there was a hot spot that I didn't like.

Here are pics of my fix for that, for now anyway.
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Drilled holes for and mounted a heat shield.
Bolted on so I can remove it when needed.
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The blower, as currently configured, blows across the long side of the can, in front of this shield, around the end where the exhaust is then escapes out the top holes.
 
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