[highwater]

That's all the pics I have thus far.
I can use the gen as it is.
I'll take some of the inside of the can and continue the story.

thanks,
Randall

 

[GenKnot]

Just a thought...exhaust wrap.

Amazon.com

 

[highwater]

Thanks @GenKnot , I'll put that on my list.

So I'll put the list here, and reference back to it as I get things done or drop them altogether. In no particular order.

Done post 155 1. Anti-short bushings for the 2 inch flex.

2. Monitor temperatures inside the can. 2 and 3 go together

3. Monitor airflow, and modify if needed.

4. Exhaust wrap. Actually probably tied to 2 and 3.

Done post 162 5. Received Cam locks for lid closed. (backordered) It would be possible I guess for the lid to be sucked open, although if that happens I'm probably in a very bad situation.

6. Get Propane backup fuel done.

7. Remote E-STOP.

Done post 157 8. Rain block for the upper vent. I have been going out every morning after our 2AM thunderstorms that happen every 2 days, and opening the lid to see if rain was blowing in. I haven't found that to be true YET, but I can see how it might be possible. ( Already working on this.)

9. Clean up (beautify) cable rigging on lid. I'll post a current pic later, and share my intentions.

9. Mount gas tank inside of the lid. (in process) I have taken the gas tank off the genny. Makes it very easy to get to the sparkplug and the valve cover for service. I want all the parts of the gen in the can with it. If the gas tank is laying around in the garage, I can see a good chance of it getting damaged/knocked off a shelf/whatever. I have plugged all the lines. Also I was concerned about the tank getting scratched up with the lift device, which I would like to leave in place on the genny. Another thought on this is the inverter unit is underneath the gas tank. With the tank removed does that help with the heat that might puddle under the tank? Again, I have been going out and looking for rain drops on the inverter unit itself. Nothing but dust. Doesn't mean it can't happen, thus the added rain shield for the upper vents.

10. Purchase an entire generator. Same model.

11. Sound deadening inside the can.

12. Clean up cable on the genny hoist. Cut off the extra. Lot of cable there. Just need enough to set the genny on the ground. Anything more just turns into a rats nest when it relaxes.

13. Block heater.

14. Lights inside can. (12v/110v)? Got some 12v pickup beds lights on hand, probably use those for sure.

15. Failsafe lid open lock/brace. Could possibly blow forward off the resting posistion, and the cable break and shut on me while working in there. Highly unlikely but possible.

16. Bigger 12v battery when the time comes. Maybe/maybe not. I just bought a lawn mower battery a few weeks ago for 71 USD. The next week Atwoods had a Durastart full size marine battery for 80 USD. Gees.

Done post 161 17. Paint the rusty NG iron pipe yellow.

Randall

 

[highwater]

And since we had one of those 2AM storms last night, I'm on my way out to check things out.
I'll get some pics inside the can.

 

[GenKnot]

I'll put that on my list.

The exhaust wrap will help "seal-in" radiated heat from the exhaust pipe and get it out of the enclosure along with the exhaust gases. It should reduce heating inside the enclosure a little.

 

[highwater]

Pics of the gas can idea. Nothing firm yet, but I think there is plenty of room. I need to find or make some fasteners that will make a rigid setup. The curve of the lid is the issue. Don't want it swinging around. I've started playing with some small HEIM joint fittings that I have but no decisions yet.

It will be farther up in the lid, but I couldn't hold it up there with one hand. But you get the idea.

 

[highwater]

This is the mess of the cable on the hoist. It just bugs me.

 

[highwater]

First pic is where I stop cranking it open with the drill, just shy of the tipping point.

Then go over and manually ease it back to the resting place on the legs. Very easy to do.

You might also visualize what I was talking about if the cable broke and a wind came up and blew the lid off the legs, over on me while my head is in the way. Probably won't happen, but a thought.

 

[GenKnot]

If you want alternative vibration mounts for the fuel tank, I use vibration mounts similar to these on mini-splits.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806050346577.html

The charcoal canister should also be reconnected when you get the tank installed. It will help prevent fuel vapors from building up inside the enclosure. You may have already mentioned that...I haven't read the entire thread.

Also, I put moved my petcock to the bottom of the tank. It just had a hose going from the tank to the petcock and that made for difficult removal of the tank...the tank had to be completely empty, or I had to pinch off the fuel line when removing the tank.

 

[highwater]

This was my original idea for covering the winch for the lid.

As you can see it wasn't going to be very good at keeping the mud daubers and wasps out.
And I was also concerned with ice in the winter.

 

[highwater]

The charcoal canister should also be reconnected when you get the tank installed. It will help prevent fuel vapors from building up inside the enclosure. You may have already mentioned that...I haven't read the entire thread.

Also, I put moved my petcock to the bottom of the tank. It just had a hose going from the tank to the petcock and that made for difficult removal of the tank...the tank had to be completely empty, or I had to pinch off the fuel line when removing the tank.

I just want to put the empty gas tank inside the can with the generator. If something happens to me, all the pieces will be in one place for the next guy.

 

[highwater]

Old and new.

 

[GenKnot]

I just want to put the empty gas tank inside the can with the generator.

Ah, okay. I don't use gasoline, just NG.

However, I do keep gasoline as an option just in case we lose NG. That hasn't happened to us yet, but it did happen to many here in TX in Feb 21.

 

[highwater]

New one. Not air tight but should keep insects and rain out.
I left the top a little long, so I could bend it over the back plate to keep rain from running down to the inside.

 

[highwater]

Now some pics on the inside of the can.

One thing I had to make sure of, is that I could disconnect the fuel. Just enough room here to take the quik-connect loose. I did have to order a new disconnect. I tried for hours to get the original off the NG hose. It's not pretty at all.
Also got a 12 inch flex hose from EX-Marshall. Although the hose came with fittings, I had to buy that 90 flare/NPT.

A wider view just shows I can still have access to the rope start. I will say I never plan to use it. Old man/bad shoulders thing. I do use it to get into compression after a run.

 

[highwater]

Ah, okay. I don't use gasoline, just NG.

However, I do keep gasoline as an option just in case we lose NG. That hasn't happened to us yet, but it did happen to many here in TX in Feb 21.

I don't plan on gasoline either. My second choice will be propane. THAT I need to get done.
Have gasoline in everything here. Tractor is gas, mower holds 13 gallons and I keep it full, 3 vehicles, usually several 5 gallon jugs sitting in some shade somewhere during mowing season. That will be my 3rd choice.

Going to town in a season of mass hysteria to get gasoline just ain't on my want list. Been there done that. One station in town had backup power.
And this area did have a NG outage during an ice storm 15 or 20 years ago, so yes **it happens.

 

[highwater]

Now I'll cover the blower. This is one of the things on the list that will need monitoring until I'm satisfied with the temps in the can.

This is the original place where the blower was going to sit and blow out the front of the enclosure. Once I put the hoist inside the can the blower wouldn't fit there, so that changed.

There was a flapper door that blew open when the fan was running, and was weighted so it was self closing.

Flapper door. Went through many changes evident by all the holes.

 

[highwater]

So currently the fan sits on a plenum that I made out of trim coil and sheet metal.
Put rubber edging on it to keep from rubbing on the can.
The plenum covers the original opening.
It sucks in from the bottom, and just blows into the inside of the can.
I had cut off some of the snout so it would fit in the previous place. Darn, another warranty voided.

I stays turned on high, and plugged into the 110vac on the generator output panel.

 

[highwater]

Here you can see the circle opening in the plenum where the fan intake is.
The flapper door was replaced with insect screen and a drip edge that goes from support to support.
I can cut out a bigger opening behind the insect screen if I need to, from inside the can.

 

[GenKnot]

I noticed in your opening post you were interested in the spark plug specs.

From the manual (as you stated) the plugs listed are:

OEM Type......................... F7RTJC (Torch)
Replacement Type........... BOSCH FR7KTC or equivalent
Gap .................................. 0.028-0.039 in. (0.7-1.0 mm)

I could not find the specs for the Torch F7RTJC, but Denso lists the Iridium cross as the W20EPB Multi-Ground, or the IW20 Iridium.

The problem with a multi-ground spark plugs is that it is almost impossible to change the gap.

Since you are using NG as your primary fuel, the plug gap that is recommended is reduced from .030" to .022" (some go even down to .020" on NG). Propane would be .024".

The plug I would recommend is the NGK BPR7EIX Iridium. Or, a step up in quality, the NGK IGR7A-G Laser Iridium.

The standard nickel plug would be BPR7ES.

I am showing a 7 heat range because NG tends to run hotter than gasoline. I use a 7 heat range in my gen on NG with a gap of .022".