Power Equipment Forum banner

Champion Tri-Fuel Inverter 201176

21K views 163 replies 8 participants last post by  highwater  
#1 · (Edited)
Edit: Storm can project starts on page 4.

Couldn't find anything here on the forum about this one, so I'll be the guinea pig I guess.
I needed to get something on site and running before I needed it, and my little 3 cyl Kubota project is not finished.
I looked at the 9k, 12k and such that seem to be advertised alot currently.
Then I thought, you have a Champion 3 inch trash pump, just look and see if they have any genny with the same engine, and you would already have some spare parts on hand maybe.

No luck there. The trash pump is a 195cc, and Champion only uses that engine on the trash pump.

But while I was looking at their stuff I happened across this Tri-Fuel Inverter.
I have been reading here about some folks having trouble with the late model appliances not running on the rotary gens, so I started digging into the specs on this one.

The one negative that I found was they use Copper clad Aluminum in the windings.
But I won't be running it that hard, so we'll see how that works.

The running watts on NG is spec'd at 5875 minus 3.5% for each 1000 ft. ASL altitude (1008ft) (176w) so that leaves ~5700w. LPG is slightly better.
NG will be my primary fuel with LPG secondary.
I had already stubbed up 1 and 1/4 inch for the gen when I installed an on demand water heater several years ago.
The gas company came out and swapped the meter out to accommodate that demand.
I told them at that time, about a possible future generator on the same line, and they told me they could turn this meter up and put a regulator on the output, and get the BTU output of the line up.
At that time we were talking about a much larger stationary gen, so we'll see how this works.

I have a 6 circuit 110v only manual transfer switch already installed for critical loads.

I tried to find some spark plug options but not too many of those out yet.
The factory plug is a Torch I guess, F7RTJC. Again I searched this forum with no luck on that.
Manual says equivalent is Bosch F7KJCR. Again no luck on searching forum.
I did find a replacement for the Bosch online, an NGK 1263 BP6ET.
Took all these numbers to my local NAPA in town and should have 2 of the NGK here today.

Comes packaged very well. Backed my pickup up to the freight truck, and slid it into my truck.
No damage, packaged very well.
Got it unpacked.
I've tried turning this pic every direction and the forum turns it when I post it. Oh well.
(EDIT rotated pic.)

Image


Got the wheels, handle, etc., installed.
This genny come with a bonded neutral, so you have to unbond it unless you are going to use it for constuction or off-site stuff.
Champion has a video of what to do for this on their website.
I didn't trust electrical tape by itself to wrap the Neutral so I put 2 layers long ways over the eyelet then put some shrink wrap over it

Image


(EDIT rotated pic.)And that one turned also when I post it.

I also tried to find magnetic drain plug and dipstick. No luck.
I sent Champion parts an email asking them if they knew where I could find those.

“We recommend a magnetic drain plug instead since we are unsure if any dipsticks will have a guaranteed fit. You can find magnetic drain plugs from our friends at SuperGen Products: You searched for magnetic” - SuperGen Products
Juan from Champion Power Equipment

When I went to see what size to order I see this.
Image

And that one came in right. I don't know.

Anyway I just started trying to find the magnetic before I even looked at the gen.
Not going to mess with the drain.

Got the oil in, and it comes with both hoses for the gaseous fuels, so I'm close to getting it fired up for break-in.
I have a 1 inch valve on the gas line for the gen with what looks like a 3/4 bore. I'll have to measure to be for sure, but I need a reducer bushing to 1/2 inch for the hose that came with it.

I am also finishing my wiring and connections from the outside to the manual transfer switch. I'll post more pics as I go.

I appreciate you guys being here. I enjoy reading this forum.
Randall
 
#2 ·
Here is the manual transfer switch in the laundry room.

Image
Image

The transfer switch did not come with long enough pigtails to put it where I had to because of the wall structure, so I had to put a terminal strip box in between the 2.
When I remodeled the laundry room and bathroom on the other side of this wall, I put a double stud wall in.
The plumbing all runs in the space between the 2 stud walls.
I put FRP on the wall here so I could take the wall covering down to work on stuff. Works pretty good.

Up above the door, you can see a hook which provides strain relief for a power cord that comes from a battery/inverter setup.

The twist lock plug is an L5-30.
I had a question about pullling only 110v from this inverter machine, and found another question on Champions website about voltage from the inverter.

Answer:
“Indeed, the generator is engineered to recognize a 120-volt load even when connected to a 240-volt supply. It's perfectly safe to operate a 120-volt load on one leg of the 240-volt supply, and the generator will seamlessly provide the necessary power without any complications.

If you have any further inquiries or require additional assistance, please don't hesitate to get in touch with us. You can reach us by phone at 1-877-338-0999, or simply drop us an email at Support@cpeauto.com. Our team is also available via live chat and on various social media platforms.

We're here to help and provide the support you need.”
Anthony from Champion Power Equipment

Randall
 
#3 ·
Looks nice!

The factory plug is a Torch I guess, F7RTJC. Again I searched this forum with no luck on that.
Manual says equivalent is Bosch F7KJCR. Again no luck on searching forum.
I did find a replacement for the Bosch online, an NGK 1263 BP6ET.
Personally, I would go with an BPR6EIX Iridium plug. The multi-ground plugs cannot be re-gapped. The gaps are usually changed to .024" for LP, and .022" for NG. If switching between NG and LP, then a happy medium. It is sometimes helpful to go to a cooler plug with LP and NG (BPR7EIX) because they burn hotter, so keep an eye on the plug and see if that is necessary.

Here are specs...

Image
 
#5 ·
The bore is 3/4 on the 1 inch ball valve.
so, I have a 3/4 inch flow.

Image


Went to get the spark plugs at NAPA and it turns out the BP6ET weren't in stock at the prefered distribution center and would have to pay shipping to get them here.
They looked up the BPR6 Iridium and they say they are in stock, so we'll see.
 
#6 ·
Champion can’t tell you what size thread the drain plug is? The first hour or two of break in is when that engine is going to be shedding the most amount of ferrous debris. I would hold off until you find something.
This company has a big selection of drain plugs I got one for my Honda and my Predator here:
 
#8 ·
Yes, the link I posted recommended this size for all Champion 9000’s.
I kind of like the dipstick, you can clean and observe the metal as it’s breaking in without draining the oil. I actually have both on all of my machines except for the snow thrower, no dipstick was available for it.
 
#11 ·
OD threads on the dipstick measured .765 inches, which I calculate to be 19.4 mm.
Length of the measuring part of the dipstick is 2.135 inch, from the thread shoulder to the end.

Randall
 
#12 ·
OD threads on the dipstick measured .765 inches, which I calculate to be 19.4 mm.
That seems more like a M20-2.5 which fits a WEN GN875i 420cc engine. Hmmm...

 
#15 ·
The magnetic drain plug and magnetic dipstick have both shipped from their separate suppliers.
Picked up the NGK BPR6EIX #6637 plugs from my local NAPA.
Went ahead and gapped them all to .022 per GenKnot.

Making progress on wiring the exterior gen plug, I'll post some pics on that later.
We do like pitch'urs right?

There is a current thread on the moisture under generator covers.
I've been doing a little science project in the garage with some heat under the dust cover while waiting on parts and wiring.
Should I post in that thread, or add to this one?
Don't want to hijack the other thread.

Randall
 
#17 ·
While I wait on the magnetic items to get here, I've done a little experimenting with temps inside the dust cover.
I have been following the thread about breathing dust covers.

This genny will reside my garage until I get an enclosure done, and I have a dust cover that I'll use.
This cover has a vent under a flap on one side and Velcro closure on two corners so the end panel will open.

Image


Image
 
#18 ·
I put a 60 watt incandescent bulb on the end where the handle was so it would hold the cover away from the light bulb.

Keep in mind there has been NO gasoline put in this machine yet, by me anyway. Don't even smell any when I removed the gas cap.

Image


I dug out the indoor/outdoor thermo and put the outdoor bulb on top of the engine.

Image
 
#20 ·
Used my laser pointer thermo to see what the block temp was.

Image


This is right on the block next to where the light bulb.

So what is the bottom line here?
Well, for me, since this genny is going to reside in the garage for now, if I see that we are going to have some icy weather in the forecast, I could plug in the light bulb and possibly the gen would be warmer for starting.

As far as humidity/condensation inside the dust cover, I would need to see what the humidity is under the cover.
This test was done in dry weather, so there is more to learn.

Randall
 
#22 ·
This broader picture is taken from about the point where the 1.25 inch poly gas line comes from around in front of the house where the meter is, to where I am standing, then on to the tankless water heater connection, which can be seen in the far right.

The exhaust for the tankless is up high on that wall and the intake is around the corner about halfway up the wall.
There are no doors or windows in the walls going around the corner to the right.
The nearest window is around the corner to the left, 8ft down from the corner.
Around the farthest corner to the right, past the tankless, is a patio door 10ft from that corner.
It is 14 feet from this wall to the wall where the tankless feed goes in.

This old slab is where the combo HVAC unit was when we bought the place.
The furnace is now in the basement area, and the coil is out of frame on the right, sitting on an elevated platform on another slab.
So I used the rather large square hole in the old slab to run all the utilities underneath.
I hate holes in the wall.
The grid power comes in underground, which you can see at ground level below the old phone box.
So this old slab is 7 feet from the siding to the outer edge.
If I use the last 2 feet to sit the gen, then I have the 5 feet recommended by the owners manual to be from combustibles.
The riser for the gen is covered with the red lockout.

I had an old kitchen trash can that I used the bottom part of to make a rain cover for the gen plug.
We'll see how that holds up in the wind.

This is on the South end of the house, so that offers some protection from the Winter wind.

Randall


Image
 
#24 ·
I can confirm the WEN magnetic dipstick GNA200 is a direct replacement for the factory dipstick .
Same threads. Screws in just fine.

Champion PN is 15010-000007 Oil Dipstick Subassembly

Image


Magnetic drain plug should be here Thursday this week.

Randall
 
#26 · (Edited)
Got the magnetic drain plug today, that I ordered from the link that Champion provided to me.
SuperGen is the name. Got the 12mm.
I stood a 2x4 on edge to tilt the gen so as not to lose any oil.
That wasn't enough so I used the 2x4 flat and put a 2x6 on edge and that was enough tilt.
Honestly the little oil that came out, on first tilt, when I pulled the factory drain hose off, was probably what was in the hose.

The crush washer that came with magnetic plug is quite large, so make sure it is not dangling in the root of a thread when you tighten it down. I stuck a long screwdriver in there to hold it up while I tightened it down by hand.

The factory nipple takes a 17mm socket and the magnetic plug takes a 14mm.
EDIT ( 14 not 15mm)

I took the lower plastic cover off where you would remove the 12v battery. That requires an 8mm socket.

Image


Randall
 
#27 ·
I started looking today, to see what I would need for Propane as my secondary fuel.
My knowledge of this is outdated.
I went into town and talked to the local propane supplier, and he informed me that my 100lb tanks were now required to have the OPD valves, and describing mine to him, he said yeah those would even need re-certified.
Not worth it he said.
And he said "honestly, you can buy those from the farm stores cheaper than I can get them here."

I probably am not going to want to hustle 100lb tanks around anyway.
New 40lb tanks don't seem to awful pricey. Looked them up on Menards website.

The local supplier said the problem with propane and generators is the vaporization rate, thus the need for more than one tank, in some cases. I took all the info for this genny with me.

I found this page while searching for "propane+gang" gang tanks
More for me to learn here also.

I wanted to run the initial break-in on NG, and then run another 4hr oil change on propane. Looks like that will be later.
But I do want to get the propane fuel as backup, on site, and know that it will work properly.

And I searched this forum for propane stuff, but didn't see much on multiple tanks.

Randall
 
#28 ·
I searched this forum for propane stuff, but didn't see much on multiple tanks.
Maybe some of this will give you an idea. When it comes to manifolds for tanks, you are only limited by your creativeness (and possibly the size of your wallet).

Nash Fuel Manifold: PROPANE NATURAL GAS MANIFOLD BALL VALVE LOCK OFF LOW PRESSURE 3/4" 1/2

Nash Fuel Manifold kits: Vapor Propane Tank Manifold Kit Link Cylinders Tanks Rubber Hose Ball

Five tank manifold kit:
PROPANE LP MANIFOLD KIT -- Hook FIVE Tanks Together!! | eBay

PropaneManifold.com GS-GANG – Propane Manifold

and from another vendor:
 
#32 ·
Before I put the factory oil in that came with it, I marked the level so I could use that container to pre-measure my oil changes. I've got one ready to go for next time that way.

Image
 
#34 ·
I had 2 qts. of Penzoil sitting here, so I used that for the first oil change, 10W30.
I use 5W30 full syn in my truck so I just got that ready to go for the next oil change, which I plan on doing at 10hrs.

I was going to run 5 hrs on NG and then the second 5 on propane, but the propane will have to wait.
I lack 2 hrs on the second 5hr run so I'll get that tomorrow.

This is the most I ever saw on the little meter on the xfer switch. Just happened to be in front of it when something kicked on.
I don't know what the 2 scales are on the meter. I'll open it up and see where the CT is.

Image