You will need to do a break-in run of 5 or more hours. (refer to owners manual). I did break-in using propane on my little 2500W dual fuel Champions. Never put gas in either one which is good in a couple of ways. Don't have to worry abt gas fumes so it can be brought inside or transported in car and no gas going bad in the carb. Downside is you don't know for sure if it will run on gasoline w/o issues. It's really up to the individual user. I'm pretty handy with carbs so I figured I could probably address any issues running on gas so I held off putting gas in them. Plus I have another larger gas genny to fall back on.

 

Welcome.

My suggestions:

Do a 5-10 hour break-in procedure. Don't run it at all until you get a magnetic drain plug or a magnetic dipstick. Use non-synthetic oil for the break-in. Change the oil after the first 30-60 minutes, and again two more times for the total break-in. Then put in full synthetic after the break-in is finished. Start out will light loads and add more load as the procedure progresses. Also, vary the load during the break-in. I like to use things that turn themselves on and off such as a clothes iron, a crockpot with water in it, etc. Look around, you are likely to have a lot of things that do that.

You can do the break-in on propane if you don't want to use gas. If you do use gas, drain all the fuel from the tank and carb bowl and let them sit open for awhile to evaporate what is left. Then pour about a cup of 2-cycle oil in the tank and let it also run into the carb. The 2-cycle oil will preserve both. Even if you don't do the break-in with gas, I would still add the 2-cycle oil. The oil can be drained before using the gen on gas the next time. If you run it on propane, just leave the 2-cycle oil in it.

Store the gen with it on the compression stroke (you can feel the increased resistance when pulling the rope). This will ensure that the valves are closed to help prevent moisture from entering the cylinder. You can also remove the spark plug and put a little motor oil (about a teaspoon) in the cylinder before you park it on the compression stroke.

Many people want the peace of mind that their gens will work when called upon, so they run them every 30-60 days for about 20 minutes with a load applied. Personally, I don't do that, but again, it is that peace of mind thing.

 

Welcome TC.
All good suggestions above, although if putting oil into the spark plug hole, 2-stroke oil is better as it’s designed to burn. 4-stroke engine oil could foul/gum up the spark plug because it’s designed Not to burn.
Yes to 5-10 hours on the unit with several oil changes, before storing.
Run every month for 20 minutes with a medium load on it. Be sure to shut off the fuel afterwards. Change oil once a year/100 hours or after an actual extended emergency run. Attach a battery maintainer if electric starter equipped, 24/7.

 

Welcome to the forum! Congrats on your purchase

My question is this, Should I put gas in the generator or wait until I need it?

My answer...Absolutely. Even tho you're going to use propane as its main source, I'd want to/have to be sure it ran and worked top notch on both fuels. If there's an issue, it's to your advantage to know now rather than later when it might be needed most.

No need to fill the tank to its full 3 gallons, just add 1. Flip the fuel dial source back and forth during the break-in, (as specified in the manual) there's no need to shut the gen down each time.

Once break-in is complete, if you wish to completely drain all the gasoline from the tank and carb, its not a big deal, somewhat tedious but still pretty easy and straightforward. Simply follow the directions for long or short term storage on page 25 of the manual...

https://cdn.westinghouseoutdoorpower.com/owners_manuals/iGen4500DF_manual_web.pdf

 

I see no one mentioned it, but your brand new unit is going to come with an inferior brand of overseas spark plug, a Torch. They're not overly reliable for long term use, altho I do run them during the break-in process before switching them out.
Normally I'd recommend picking up a standard copper cored NGK BPR7ES (gasoline only), but since you'll also be using propane, you're likely to benefit from an NGK BPR7EIX series spark plug with a tighter gap setting of .022 to .024.

 

Here is good video. In this case, he is stabilizing the fuel instead of draining it since he is just putting the snow blower away for the summer. He explains and shows why the oil should be put in the cylinder. He is using fogging oil which is another option. There are many that use engine oil, automatic transmission fluid, Marvel Mystery Oil, fogging oil, etc. The important thing is to put some oil in there for long-term storage.

 

One other note:

They make oil designed for break-in if you want to use it. I used Lucas Break-in Oil, but there are many other brands. It can be bought in quart size if you don't want a gallon.

 

I appreciate all the great suggestions. I would like to get a battery keeper, what would you all suggest? same goes for the magnetic drain plug and plugs

 

same goes for the magnetic drain plug and plugs

I forgot to answer your drain plug question. You need a magnetic dipstick or a magnetic drain plug. Some people put in both, but it may not add any additional benefit. The magnetic dipstick can easily be checked for debris, whereas the drain plug is more difficult to check unless you are doing an oil change. You can tip the gen over slightly to remove and check the drain plug if that is what you go with.

I would suggest that you take your drain plug to a hardware store and match it up with a metric nut to verify the size unless you can carefully measure it.

 

WEN sells several magnetic dipsticks. Do you have a way to measure yours to find a match on the WEN site?

Search: 19 results found for "dipstick"

I use a NOCO Genius1 maintainer for my car. My gen is pull start.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=NOCO+Genius+1&ref=nb_sb_noss

 

I would like to get a battery keeper, what would you all suggest?

Either Battery Tender Jr or a Noco, both are what I call quality items and recommend. There are brands a-plenty on the market at a much lower price, but I cant speak positively on their quality or durability.

magnetic drain plug

There are a few members here on the site with the same 4500 unit, perhaps one will step in to confirm, I suspect the Wen 55201 (M18 x 2.5) is your match.
As mentioned however, measuring thread diameter to confirm leaves no doubt. M18 (18mm) pictured below...

 

I would not put ethanol gas in anything that is going to be left to sit.
These new carbs have too much plastic in them that ethanol can damage.
If you do put ethanol gas in it to exercise it, be sure to run it until the gas is out of the carb.

 

👆 Exactly, that is why I said "unless you can carefully measure it". Not everyone has calipers, etc. or other similar tools, although they are fairly cheap to purchase if you need them in your arsenal of tools. But to figure out a plug size only one time, it is easier and cheaper to just match it up with a metric nut.

 

I find the picture confusing. The drain plug is metric but the calipers tool is sae. How do I read that measurement to correspond to the metric size?
I like the idea of taking the plug to a hardware store and matching a nut to it to determine the size…🥴

 

The drain plug is metric but the calipers tool is sae. How do I read that measurement to correspond to the metric size?

Look a bit more closely Dutchy, SAE on the bottom, metric on the top. Like most tape measures these days.

 

Exactly, that is why I said "unless you can carefully measure it".

Hence my replies...

Should TC have the appropiate tools (perhaps unknowingly?)

In case any viewer to the post wishes to know...

 

But to figure out a plug size only one time, it is easier and cheaper to just match it up with a metric nut.

 

For some I suppose. Not so much for those of us living off the beaten path...

 

All good information here, I just want to reiterate not using any ethanol fuel if you’re going to break it in with gasoline. While it is a good idea to make sure it runs on both fuels, all my dual/tri-fuel units have never seen gasoline, nor will they if I can help it. I have a 100 pound tank full of LP…it never goes bad either. Get familiar with servicing the unit, especially drawing the carb bowl and oil changes.
As far as break-in, if you use an automotive oil
I recommend about a 5ml shot of ZDDP additive (you can buy it at auto parts stores) since most premium small engine oils get an extra shot of the stuff. Toro, VP, and Amsoil all use it in their small engine oils. Since it’s an enclosed inverter I recommend a full synthetic 10w30 or straight 30w in the summer since they run a bit hotter than an open frame design.
The magnetic dipstick is a must, cheap to buy and good insurance.
When you do the break in, for the first hour or two make sure you vary engine speed and loads. This will seat the rings better and it will (hopefully) consume less oil.
Some of these electric start inverters have a small parasitic draw on the battery. On my Predator 3500 I removed the battery and put an SAE 12v two prong socket in the side and I keep the battery external.
I just purchased another 3500 this past weekend and will be relocating the battery, PM me if you want some details on the material list and some pictures.
I check my battery yesterday after six months it hadn’t lost any charge, the tender shut right down within a minute of hooking it up.

 

Some of these electric start inverters have a small parasitic draw on the battery.

I agree and found the same issue with a conventional gen a coupla years ago. The first time I thought it was the switch being left on. I went a different way and solved it with a small breaker, same result tho, no more ghost drain.

 

Looking for advice on my first generator.

Simply a possible add for you TC, I may be the only one that does this, (I'm all for preventative maintenance)...I'm referring to your units spark arrestor. The spark arrestor retaining bolt/screw can have tendency to seize up from heat and or rust on some engines, regardless of what piece of equipment it's on.
Depending on useage, eventually you'll want to remove and clean it at some point. To make life easier and help ease its future removal, with it being new, take it off and out now and apply a dab of anti-sieze to all associated retaining threads.
It's certainly not a must do, many have never had issue, but it's saved me in the past on more than one occasion.

Looking at whats in your manual, you've just the one to deal with...

 

Not everyone does and that's my point.

Understandable. My point again...Hence my earlier stated quotes...

Should TC have the appropiate tools (perhaps unknowingly?)

In case any viewer to the post wishes to know...

 

I didn't say anything about someone that already had the tools knowingly or unknowingly. Your comment...

For some I suppose. Not so much for those of us living off the beaten path...

Was in response to my comment..

But to figure out a plug size only one time, it is easier and cheaper to just match it up with a metric nut.

So again, for a person that does not have the tools and needs to figure out the size of a plug one time, it is easier to match it up with a metric nut rather than invest in tools for this purpose.

 

Thanks for the great advice. Anybody know how I would hook up a battery maintainer?

 

Anybody know how I would hook up a battery maintainer?

Many find that the SAE connectors work fine for that. Just run it out the side and plug in when needed.

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