It would be odd on an FI system, but maybe some fuel is ending up in the cylinder? Check your oil for gasoline (smell or level too high). Next time it happens, I would remove the spark plug and then see if it pulls over easily and see if anything is ejected from the plug hole.

 

Thank you. I'm about to swap out the spark plug now and see if I notice anything odd and whether it pulls more easily without the plug....thx....

 

Hi. I have a EU7000is generator that is 5 years old with roughly 200 hours on it. Oil is changed regularly. Fuel is always fresh and/or stabilized. Battery is fully charged and nearly brand new.

Up until recently, the generator would start up and run flawlessly. Recently, I often run into an issue when I go to start it using the push button, it tries to start up but it won't turn over. I hit the start button, it tries to start it for a second, and then nothing. In those circumstances, I open the side door and try to manually start it only to find the manual pull extremely hard to pull, almost as if the motor is stuck. If I try to pull it (firmly but gently) a few additional times, I can feel the motor turn a little, the pull motion loosens up a bit and then I can start it manually (or with the push button). From there it runs perfectly, will power my house for days without issue. Subsequent starts once warm don't seem to present any issue either, the unit seems to fire up right away.

Any thoughts on where my issue is? What are the things I should be looking at that would cause the above? Thank you in advance.

set the valves first.

then replace the battery!
yea a battery issue does this!
lol been there done that!
we use HD batterys now in all of the eu7000is gen sets.

do you have a trickle charger on the battery??
it is a must for these sets as they have a computer on board that has memory.
click here for the battery charger page
we use the solar brand 1002
it fits inside the battery cover above the battery.
and there is a knock out in the cover for the charge cord for 120 vac in to the new charger.

 

Hi! I did replace the battery and it did not solve the issue. And yes, the battery is plugged into a trickle charger at all times. The battery is strong. Just feels like there is something that's preventing the motor from turning over in some positions but once I softly pull the pull cord it loosens up and I can fire it up easily with the push starter or pull cord. It's strange. Not sure what you mean by "set valves first" but i'll do some research on that now, please elaborate if you can. Thanks!!!

 

I wonder if these units have a decompression valve, that is sticking or otherwise not working properly? Dutchy

 

I'm not technical enough to answer that, but I can tell you that when I'm manipulating the pull cord when the generator won't start, it does eventually feel like something releases and that's when I'm able to start it with the push button or pull cord.

 

From Google.... One of the great frustrations of using a generator can come from simply trying to get the machine to start. The Honda GX390 minimizes this annoyance through high-quality manufacturing and by special features designed to improve starting reliability. The GX390 incorporates, for example, a horizontal cross-flow intake port that smooths the flow of fuel into the combustion chamber. This feature, combined with Honda's automatic mechanical decompression, eliminates many of the causes of starting problems.
So I would talk to your Honda shop and see what they think is causing this issue. What type of oil are you using? This is mechanical so it is activated by a cam lobe I think. You need an oil that is suitable for a hot air cooled engine. So think a motorcycle oil, not automotive oil. Keep us posted, Dutchy

 

Thanks so much everyone. I decided to take the morning to redo all the basics. Pumped out the existing fuel, changed the fuel filter, oil, spark plug, and air filter. All removed items looked nearly new so I'm not certain I solved my issue but the unit did start up immediately the next three times I tried which is better than usual. We'll see once it sits for a bit. Thanks again.

 

I just purchased this model a few months ago, so I'm following this closely. I was also wondering, do you start it every month or so and run it for awhile just to keep things moving?

 

check your compression.
it should be 60-90 psi.
make sure they valves are set perfect.
if it is higher on the psi
you are looking at an engine full tear down to look at the cam assy.

 

Thank you for posting the video. My eu6500is has about 75 hours and never a valve adjustment (mostly because it always runs flawlessly). This vid outlines the maintenance I will be doing in the spring for sure.

Eric

 

any small engine try to leave it on the beginning of the compression stroke.
easy to do with the pull rope.
that way the valves are closed.
a depressed valve spring is a bad deal over time..
it is that metal memory thing.

as well as trash can get in through an open valve.

 

Never have done that. How often should it be done?

 

after every run.

 

ty tab.
it has been a mad dash here getting gear ready for the end of the year.

 

replace the battery!
bad cell!

 

That was it! I replaced the battery and all good now. I will definitely keep the new one on the maintainer all the time. I guess just becase the battery reads good voltage doesn't mean it is 100% good. Thanks for the help.

 

any time!!
lol!
been there done that on the batteries!
yea we like the little solar brand charger.
pm me for a link.
they fit perfect just above the battery on a honda eu7000is!
we leave them plugged in 7/24 and get 4-5 years on the batteries.

we are looking in to the lithium batteries for these gen sets...
so far they are pricey. but they last 10 years or more.
the prices are dropping again on them.
the good thing is they work in temp extremes,,,
the moto cross and circle track guys sear by them as they are super light weight.

 

Hi,

Which version of the Clore Automotive Solar Battery Maintainer did you get? They have several and I would like one that fits like you said.

Thank you,

Duane

 

I have the exact problem even the hours. Have gone through the exact steps in troubleshooting. On the third battery in less than 40 hours. On a hind battery tender. Mine will also blow the 30 amp fuse a lot. Honda will only talk to a dealer mechanic. They went through a lot of trouble shooting and still have the problem. I think the decompression issue may be a possibility. I have a hard pull at times. Another possibility is the GCU which controls the start. When the generator was at the dealer inside and warm it did start better.

I use the generator as a home backup. It’s stored outside, enclosed, out of the weather in New Jersey. When it runs it’s great. It’s all about starting. I wouldn’t buy Honda again after my experience trying to get OEM support.

 

Honda will only talk to a dealer mechanic.

Hmm. This is very disturbing. I did not know that!

Considering what you pay for a Honda, they should be glad to help you.

 

Welcome to the forum Gabranted!

I use the generator as a home backup. It’s stored outside, enclosed, out of the weather in New Jersey. When it runs it’s great. It’s all about starting. I wouldn’t buy Honda again after my experience trying to get OEM support.

Understandable, especially with the amount of $$$ initially laid out.

Another possibility is the GCU

Not an inexpensive fix by any means. The dealer trouble shooting couldnt confirm?
Simply a suggestion...Considering you continue to have issues, is there another dealer closeby or small engine shop with a known good reputation you could try?

 

I was anengine builder inthe 80s and it sounds like gas is leaking into the cylonder and "hydraulicing" the engine.

Pull your oil dipstic and smell the oil on it! If it smells like gas turn the gas valve off.....remove the float bowl andthejet.....then go buy a new fuel jet and seat for it.....install it and put it back together!

 

then go buy a new fuel jet and seat for it

This is a fuel injected generator. No carburetor.

I've called Honda several times (I have 14 Honda small engines) and never had an issue with them support-wise. @Gabranted, there is a 3+ year warranty on the EU7000is; make full use of it!

 

My eu7000isAT 89 hours. Exactly the same problem; push start button, clicks but won’t turn over. Push 2-3 more times it starts. Replaced batter. Nope. Same problem.

 

full charge the battery before use.
if that does not work
replace the battery again.

make sure to use a quality charger maintainer for the battery.
the onboard battery is only good for 2-3 starts after that it needs to be full charged before starting again.

 

Purchased new battery and did the same thing as I said previously. When it did it again I tested voltage on the battery I removed and it was 13.5 volts. I would it the starter solenoid got sticky from not being used enough. After installing new battery I repeated the start sequence several times and it got better.

 

Purchased new battery and did the same thing as I said previously. When it did it again I tested voltage on the battery I removed and it was 13.5 volts.

Sounds as if the battery is good.

he starter solenoid got sticky from not being used enough.

Nah. The starter solenoid should not get sticky.

After installing new battery I repeated the start sequence several times and it got better.

Just guessing, but that sounds more like an oil issue. What oil are you using and what is your current temperature?

 

When this happened we had OAT of 17F. I believe the oil is 5w-40. But, it did the click 3 times started and ran in gen mode for 1 hour. Then 2 hours later power went out again and it did 2 fails and then started.

 

it did the click 3 times started and ran in gen mode for 1 hour. Then 2 hours later power went out again and it did 2 fails and then started.

So, it sat for about 1hr between those runs and cooled off. You will usually know if it oil related if it starts okay at higher temps. Sometimes these gens just don't spin well at 17 degrees!

If 5W-40 isn't doing well enough for you, I would try 0W-40. I run Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 European and so far I like it. It has outstanding specs! BTW, Mobil also makes a 5W-40 European version, but it is not as good as the 0W-40 IMHO.

 

👍🏻

 

My eu7000isAT 89 hours. Exactly the same problem; push start button, clicks but won’t turn over. Push 2-3 more times it starts. Replaced batter. Nope. Same problem.

Just curious if you're seeing any E codes pop up on the monitor when it simply clicks?
You didnt mention it, but how or will it start right up using the recoil? Its worth exploring the recoil start option if you're able to just so you know.

When this happened we had OAT of 17F. I believe the oil is 5w-40.

Altho I dont think the oil is your problem, (but hey, I could be wrong), you really should double check the oil your using as a 30 weight is whats recommended for general use. Myself I run a quality grade of synthetic 5w-30 year round on all my OPE, including temps much lower than 17F.
Below is clipped from a eu7000 owners manual...

 

Altho I dont think the oil is your problem, (but hey, I could be wrong), you really should double check the oil your using as a 30 weight is whats recommended for general use. Myself I run a quality grade of synthetic 5w-30 year round on all my OPE, including temps much lower than 17F.

I agree that the oil viscosity may not be the problem, but @highaltmgm said he "believes" the gen has 5W-40 in it. So, changing it will eliminate that as the possible issue. Often the batteries that are put in these gens have a marginal CCA rating. At 17F it may be on the ragged edge of the battery's ability to spin the gen well enough.

Also, many of the gen manuals have charts that stop at 40C (104F). Stopping a chart at 40C is not realistic for many parts of the country. We get well above 104F here in Dallas and that is ambient temp. The air temp inside an enclosed gen goes well above ambient. An oil with xW-40 (and even xW-50) is often recommended for higher ambient temperatures. Here is a chart from a Westinghouse 12000DF as an example and it is not even an enclosed unit...

Oil is never-ending debated topic, so I won't try to say what is the best oil for a generator, I can only say what I am having success using. I don't even think there is a "best" oil for a generator. The Mobil 1 FS I mentioned is the factory fill for some million dollar European exotic cars and even some high performance Corvettes and has to meet some very tough standards. The "40" for the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is on the lighter end of the 40 viscosity range. For example, Amsoil 10W-40 small engine oil has a 100C viscosity of 14.5. The Mobil FS has a 100C viscosity of 13.8.

 

Not to argue but regardless of what oil weight you or I or Westinghouse use/suggests, honda recommends the 30, either straight 30, 5 or 10w. Considering the $ outlay of the 7000 I'd be inclined to follow the manufacturers recommendations.
Of course its completely up to the units owner what oil weight they use/prefer, we are afterall just posting suggestions. I agree it is a never ending debate...wars have started for less

I know and like the 40 weight too, I have 2 vehicles I use it in, one being an ATV that the manufacturer (BRP) recommends and the other being my old plow truck with 300,000 which when newly built I'm about sure Dodge recommended a 30 weight. The engine is quite worn now and will clatter like an old wagon on a washboard road with a 30 weight. 40 quiets it down significantly, 50 weight even moreso. However I only use the truck in the winter so I stay with the 40. Because of the cold weather startup temps I run a 5w.

 

Considering the $ outlay of the 7000 I'd be inclined to follow the manufacturers recommendations.

I wish that were true...that the manufacturer had the best maintenance recommendations. But I don't believe it.

I have three certified auto mechanics in my family and they all tell me the same thing. The manufacturer's recommendations are not necessarily the best. It is often a sales/marketing trade-off that comes into play. One of the best examples they give me is the "lifetime" fluids and spark plugs. There is no such thing if you want to go beyond 10-year/100K miles. It makes it sound good up front to buyers when they feel the car is basically maintenance-free. Most of the owner manuals have a "*" buried somewhere in the service recommendations. Its in there for a reason...so that the dealer can reject a warranty claim.

 

I like the Synthetic Small Engine Oil from Amsoil too. Particularly due to the anti-wear ZDDP ingredient, amongst other attributes, which is difficult to find anywhere. 😉

 

Yup, that is a good oil, but what is the ZDDP amount? The Mobil FS 0W-40 has a relatively high ZDDP rating for a car oil. ZDDP messes with catalytic converters (which the 7000 has), so they have cut back on the amounts in car oils. Here is Mobil 1 10W-30 compared to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40...

 

I am using the recommended oil 5W-40. Opened both service covers and inspected all was fine, due to tight seal of doors not a speck of dust. With 90 total hours it looks brand new but is 9 years old.
How often should I start and run? How long? With load? I have started 10 times in a row last couple days with no issues.

 

I am using the recommended oil 5W-40

Good deal. You should be fine at 17F.

How often should I start and run? How long? With load? I have started 10 times in a row last couple days with no issues.

With a smart charger/maintainer on the battery it can go longer between starts (like months) IMHO. Without a maintainer, then the gen should probably be run monthly to charge the battery. It needs to be run for 20-30 minutes to allow the battery to recharge and to allow moisture in the oil (if any) to be driven out. A load (like maybe a space heater) gets the unit up to temp better in cooler weather than running it unloaded. If the gen still gets a little grumpy starting in cold weather, then it may be best to bring the battery indoors to keep it warm. The CCA goes down when the battery is cold.