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Failed Generac 7kW 0058370 and Researching Solution

13K views 73 replies 11 participants last post by  kingbellaus  
#1 ·
Hi, folks.

I'm new to the forum, and while I'm fairly hands-on with mechanical equipment, I'm not an expert on generators. So. I would appreciate some help in making the next move in ensuring reliable standby power for my home. Please accept my apologies for the long post!

Here is some background:

The house was built (for the previous owner) in late 2014, and was equipped with a Generac Model 0058370 unit with ATS. Not sure what model the transfer switch is, but I have included some pictures to help identify generator and ATS:

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We've owned the home for about 4.5 years, and generally experience probably about 5 power outages per year, most of which are 4 hours or less. I have maintained the unit with synthetic oil, new filter, new plug, new air filter, etc., annually, and it has been fairly trouble-free. The only ongoing issue we have experienced is slow starting. The unit will always start, but it takes a lot of cranking before it will fire, usually right at the end of the first cranking cycle. This likely contributed to an early failure of the starter, which I replaced last year. The generator is on propane, and we are currently operating with 100lb cylinders, which last quite a long time. As far as requirements, we do really need an automated solution as our house we have a couple of sump pumps that are important at certain times of year.

Fast forward to two days ago. In our area, we have experienced heavier-than-normal snowfall, and with overhead lines in a heavily-forested area (Vancouver Island, BC), we have seen more frequent (and longer) outages than normal. This includes 14 hours over two outages on Christmas Eve. On Sunday morning, we had a very short outage, the generator started, and then horrible noises quickly ensued. Before I could get anywhere near the machine, it had obviously suffered catastrophic engine failure, which was confirmed when I looked inside the enclosure.

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Ouch.

Not sure of the cause, as I did check the oil regularly, but I understand from internet research that this sort of failure is not uncommon for these units. The local Generac dealer confirmed this, and says that engines (and many regular parts) are no longer available for this model. He also confirmed that comparable replacement units are taking about 45 weeks to arrive due to global supply chain issues. C'est la vie.

So, for short-term coverage, I picked up a Firman 10000/8000 dual fuel unit (it was available down the street), and have it running, with extension cords handy, to get me through until I have a better, solution. For the slightly-longer term, I was thinking of simply connecting the Firman unit with a 230V twist-lock connector in place of the hard-wired connector that went to the Generac unit. However, this brings me to the first question:

If I understand correctly, in the even of loss of line power, the transfer switch commands the generator to start, and when it sees AC power from the generator, it transfers the load to the generator. Is this accurate? I have found manuals online that I think are the correct ones for this setup, but I just want to be sure.

If my understanding is correct, I would assume that if I connect the Firman unit to the cable that was going to the Generac, when the power goes out, I should be able to go manually start the Firman, and when the transfer switch sees it come up, then it will automagically switch over to generator power? Is this accurate, or am I missing something? Is there any logic exchanged between the generator or the ATS. or do they have to be a matched set, for some reason?

Unfortunately, the Firman unit doesn't have a remote start option, so I won't be able to (easily) make that work, but at least this lets me get going without having to worry about all the extension cords, for now.

I have some ideas about where to go from here, but this post is already too long, so I will end it here for now, and will add some additional thoughts and questions a bit later.

Thanks in advance for your patience with my noob questions.

Cheers,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Please do not do this. It is called a suicide cord for a reason and is most definitely not the “right path”.

Also, no legitimate company would ever consider making one….
Thinking about it, I can see why, so thanks for mentioning it. I'll see if they can make a shorter version of the advertised cord.

Cheers,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #61 ·
Plenty of options online: Amazon.com : remote temperature monitor with alarm

In my case, I use a combination of products because I already have other IoTs and smart devices at home.

I use these Zigbee sensors and put them in every room in the house. You could put one inside your generator enclosure:

Then you'll need one of these hubs to which the sensors connect to (via Zigbee) and connects them to the internet (via WiFi or wired ethernet).

or


Finally, you'll need the app for the above hub of your choice (whether it's Tuya/Smart Life or eWelink/SonOff) on your phone to set them all up, which also lets you integrate it with voice assistants such as Alexa or Google Home. It enables you to ask "Alexa, what is the temperature (or humidity) in the bedroom?", etc. If you don't need that, the app lets you set it up in such a way that it can notify you when a certain temperature or humidity threshold is reached. If you have smart devices, in addition to sending you a notification, it can also do things like or turn a light on, like a colored smart bulb (ie. light it up RED as a visual warning for anyone in the house) or turn on a 2nd exhaust fan in the enclosure, etc. Compared to using a basic remote thermometer/hygrometer, these smart devices are much more flexible.... if you're that guy. ;)
Great information, thanks! Oh, and I might be 'that guy'. 😁

Cheers,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
From the perspective of monitoring temps inside the enclosure, I'd appreciate any input on options for suitable thermometers. Ideally, I'd love to have something in there permanently that would monitor temperature and report alerts (via WiFi) when things exceed established thresholds. Any suggestions?

Cheers,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Hi, folks.

Well, a lot of time has passed, and I haven't had much time to work on the project, but I have finally accomplished phase 1 (generator in enclosure with manual start/transfer). Here are a few pictures:

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I just realized that I didn't grab a pic of the fan and louvers from the inside. Will do that.

I think it looks pretty reasonable, and it looked even better once the silicone had dried to clear. There's definitely no hiding what's inside, but that's not unexpected. :) I also notice that the lid of the enclosure looks a bit distorted in these pics, and it is, but that is because it was propped up on one side during all the installation work. It very quickly returns to its normal shape once it is allowed to lay flat for a few minutes.

Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out, and operating noise is quite well-contained. Interior temps seem to be very reasonable so far, but I'll definitely do some additional testing to be sure. The fan/louvers seem to be working well, and the exhaust heat is minimal. The exhaust inside the shed is built in layers with a flexible steel extension running to the outside of the shed, surrounded with a layer of ceramic fiber insulation, and then the metal dryer vent outlet around that. I still have some more testing to do, but after running for about 30 minutes, the exhaust was warm (of course), but I could still leave my hand on it for a second without issue. This was on a 33C/91F day, and it seems very reasonable to me.

Next step will be to get going on the inverter/charger unit so the generator can be relegated to backup charging duties. The batteries took about 3 months to arrive, but I now have pretty much all that I need to progress, and I want to have phase 2 in service before winter.

Sincere thanks to all who have provided input so far!

Cheers,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Honestly no real concerns with temp rise after shutting down. The enclosure isnt airtight even with the shutters

The foil is holding up well and has no signs delaminating.

For your inlet box it by code needs to be a male receptacle. The “California standard” CSxxxx range of 50amp plugs and receptacles are the most common and more appropriate option.


Sounds good, thanks.

Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
You could consider going with a different style inlet box. Search for "NEMA 14-50P to SS2-50R Extension Cord with NEMA SS2-50P Generator Inlet". Walmart shows a 7ft. cord available.

I have not read thru this entire thread, so I am not sure what you are trying to do. But it is possible that you can run PVC conduit between shed and house? You could use junction boxes and/or LB pull boxes and then make up your own short cord over to the gen. Should be much cheaper to do that.
That makes a lot more sense, as there are more cables out there that will fit this inlet box. Much appreciated.

What you describe is essentially what I am planning to do, which is why I only need a short cord. (y)

Thanks again.

Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Yes, I did the same, and came up with this one, too, but way down the list. From everything I have read online, this configuration is quite rare, and even this ready-made cord is apparently custom made at time of order (per corddepot.com). I've sent them a note asking if they can custom make it in a shorter length.

As an aside, they indicate that they will custom-make any cord to your specifications, so I have asked about one that is male on both ends to match the readily-available female inlet boxes. I think I'd prefer that second option, as then it would be compatible with inlet boxes that I can find locally.

Thanks again for helping me get on the right path!

Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Hi, Folks.

I'm working my way through ordering all the parts I'll need for the shed, and need to figure out what kind of inlet box to get. On the generator side, I plan to use the L14-50R outlet, which is fine, and there are intlet boxes that use the same female connector. Problem is, this would require a cord with two male ends, and I can seem to find any like that. Also, I don't seem to be able to find any inlet boxes that have a male connector that would match all the cords I can find. Can anyone let me know what the proper combination would be, in this case?

Thanks,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
It’s going to be a heck of a setup. 👍

For your exhaust fan 16” should be sufficient depending on your summer temps.

For the intake, I used a motorized intake shutter. It’s a very clean and effective solution but pricy. The intake you have listed should install without issue, though it will encroach into the interior space a bit.

Insulation, the foil faced foam to linked to, will work, it carries a firing rating and will reduce heat soak in the enclosure with some sound attenuation. I used a peel and stick foil faced foam similar to this.
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Yes, maybe overkill, but worth the peace of mind, particularly for my wife! :)

Thanks for the info on the shutters. I'll have a look at motorized intake shutters, and see what is out there. Question for you: Do you do anything to delay closing the shutters on generator shutdown? I would imagine that there is still quite a bit of heat there when the shutdown occurs, and the lack of airflow might make temperature increase substantially.

As for the insulation, the peel and stick would certainly be a lot easier to install, and would not require the use of fasteners, which tend to transfer heat past the barrier. I'll have to give that some thought. Have you noticed any tendency for the insulation to de-laminate over time?

Thanks again -- really appreciate your help.

Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #41 ·
Okay, back to the generator setup! :p

During the week, Home Depot got in contact, and let me know that my BMS3400 shed had come in. So, I unpacked it today, and started having a look at how it goes together (pretty simple!!). After ordering this shed, I noticed a few posts indicating that it might be tight for a generator larger than 6000w, so I was a bit concerned. However, now that I have the generator sitting in it, I think it's going to be fine (as long I don't use really thick insulation). The exhaust on my Firman unit exits to the right, so clearance at the back isn't a huge issue, and the only things close to the front and back are the wheels (which could come off, if needed). Aside from the wheels, I have about 3.5" of clearance at the back, and over 4" at the front (and that's to the frame -- actual components are further). With the airflow I am planning for, I don't think that should be any problem at all. For comparison, looking inside the enclosure of the failed Generac unit, there is MUCH less clearance than with this shed. I'm definitely open to any thoughts on this, though.

Before ordering fans, louvers, insulation, etc., I wanted to get the shed here so could measure things. Having done that today, here is what I am thinking of using:

Fan/Shutter:



Intake:

I'm thinking that something that will naturally block noise would be good, so perhaps something more than simple open vents. Maybe something like this?


Not sure exactly how I would mount it, though, as it is meant to be installed in thick walls. There might well be something better out there, so I would really welcome input on this one.

Insulation:

Both heat and sound protection are important, so something reflective with some ability to absorb sound would be appreciated.

This would work well for heat, and the fire rating is great, but it doesn't say anything about noise:


Does anyone know how effective this might be?

Once again, thanks for any advice that you might have.

Cheers,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I have no idea what kind of water table you are dealing or how critical the pumps are for wet weather. Yeah battery backup units are low GPH but for most situations, are the difference between a wet or dry basement.

The battery backup pumps usually have a much smaller footprint then typical sump Pumps. Also they usually get installed higher in the pit supported by the PVC discharge pipe and clear of the primary pump. If the amount of water entering the pit overwhelms the primary pump the battery pump joins the fun.

Im all for an elaborate battery bank inverter system, but if you already own a battery backup setup, might as well put it to good use. Just saying.
You're absolutely right, of course. I do already have one of these, and taking a look at it more closely, it should be possible to install it in one of my sump pits. That will provide a final layer of protection should all else fail, and I'm always a fan of that. Looking at my power plan, I'm at 5 layers now, as follows:

1. Grid
2. All-in-One inverter/battery bank
3. On-Demand generator charging of battery bank
4. Inverter bypass via manual transfer switch to allow direct generator support of critical loads
5. Battery-Operated backup sump pump

I think that should do it. o_O:D

Thanks again.

Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
you might look at upgrade on the system in the future to load shed....
or voting...
that way you could get more out the of the gen set...
maybe use ups units for lights that would charge the batteries when you extra power available.
same for tv, internet and more...
Hi, Paul.

Well, your last suggestion is (sort of) what I have decided to do. After a great deal of research, much of it on diysolarforum.com (thanks 50ShadesOfDirt), I decided to go for an all-in-one off-grid power system that essentially operates like a big UPS (used in combination with the generator). I know that this part of my solution isn't directly relevant to the generator forum, but I promised to keep everyone posted on what I am doing, and generator still plays a really important part. So, here is a brief description:

The unit that I am going with is a 48v 6000w all-in-one inverter/charger/solar controller that has 18000w surge capability (good for the pumps!), and a lot of other features. Although I will initially use it as a big, grid-supported UPS, the integrated solar controllers will make it easy to add that option should I decide that I want to. Here is the unit:


These are available in a number of different sizes, including a 12,000w setup with 36,000 surge capability, but I think the 6000w should be good for what I want to do.

With this setup, I will be restructuring my sub panel to bring additional comforts (lights, outlets, etc.) into the mix, and the generator will normally be relegated to a backup charging role. Basically, the unit monitors battery pack voltage, and triggers a dry contact when the batteries hit a programmable low threshold. When the batteries return to a programmable high threshold, the dry contact releases and the generator stops. That takes care of the generator start/stop, and my intent is then to simply connect the generator to a separate charger attached to the battery pack. Although the Growatt unit has its own charger that it will use when grid power returns, it sees generator and grid power as essentially the same thing if the generator is connected to it. This means that it will simply pass (dirty) generator power through to the loads, and the generator will then be exposed to the heavy surge loads of the pumps, in addition to the battery recharging load. By simply adding a separate fast charger to run on generator only, all of this is avoided.

This should be a very functional system, with many hours of standby power before any generator intervention is needed, and many of our power outages will likely be resolved before we ever get to the point of needed to run the generator all all. Also, the generator can simply be run for as long as necessary to recharge the batteries, and then will shut off. When it runs, it will have a very stable charging load, and will not be subjected to any crazy variable loads.

The one concern I have is that much depends on the Growatt unit itself, and if that fails, we're back to square one. So, in addition to all of this, I will be installing a manual transfer switch that will allow me to connect the generator directly to the sub panel, thereby bypassing the Growatt system entirely, and allowing the critical loads to run directly from the generator, if necessary.

Hope all that makes sense, and please forgive me for posting non-power equipment info to this forum, but I thought people might be interested in other backup power options that are out there. For me, a blended solution that is completely automatic in the initial stages, is really appealing. Anyway, now back to figuring out my generator stuff (which I'll post separately).

Thanks again for the great advice, everyone!

Cheers,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #34 · (Edited)
I believe you are grid-tied? I'm off-grid, so I run solar/genny power thru a Magnum 4024 inverter/charger (solar via a midnite classic mppt) ... it takes care of charging our LiFePO4 battery bank; when not charging, then it feeds the house from the battery bank. The battery bank feeds the house for upwards of 24 hours or more, in between being topped off by solar, or charged by genny during non-solar times.

Is this what you are asking about?

It gets tricky if you are grid-tied, as all kinds of regulations come into play ... an electrician is almost certainly called for to sort through the wiring issues.

If grid-tied, you could get away with a inverter/charger and a battery bank, w/ no solar or mppt; when grid is on, the inverter/charger draws from that to top off the bank. when grid is down, inverter feeds the circuits, and genny is tied in at times to replenish the bank.

Hope this helps ...
Yes, we are grid-tied, so I am really looking more for practical backup power than extended off-grid capability. That said, having the option to add solar in the future is somewhat appealing. I still need to do a bunch of research to see if it makes sense, though, particularly as we are in a heavily-forested area, which limits the amount of direct sunlight we get.

Having an electrician look into this is definitely part of the plan, regardless. I'm certainly familiar with the concepts, design, etc., but the actual mechanics of electrical work are not my strength (low-voltage is another story, though). I find the electrical component to be interesting, and will follow closely, but I know better than to trust myself with this portion of the project.

Yes, I'm thinking of operating just as you describe, and am researching what might work best. Do you know of a good forum for input on inverter chargers, etc.? From my limited research, it looks like companies like Outback and Magnum are the established (and expensive) players (made in USA), followed by the likes of Victron (designed in the Netherlands, built in China), then a whole lot of made-in-China brands, some of which are getting to be really good, while others aren't. I'm trying to find the right balance for my situation, and am currently thinking that Victron might be a good choice, with its variable-charge "generator assist" function. Another option that might fit would be an Aimes product, like this:


Still lots to learn, though, and I have a list of about a dozen questions that I am tracking down answers for. This forum has been very helpful, and it would be nice to find an equivalent related to that side of emergency power.

Thanks again.

Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Looks like 6awg hard to say though. I’m surprised with a 7000watt generator only 4 spaces were filled.

An inverter charger and battery bank is a very expensive solution for a sump pump. It obviously can be used for lots of other electrical needs as well. It’s neat how they can bypass the battery and supply grid or generator power when availible. But if the sump pump is the main or only concern a 12v battery backup pump kit is fairly inexpensive.

Yes, you're right, it is an expensive option, and I don't take that lightly. However, I'm looking for peace of mind -- particularly if I am traveling. The thought of my wife trying to figure out what to do if the generator were not to start, or if it blew up, or if the starting battery were to die, etc., leaves me with a real sense of unease. Even worse, if we are both away, what then? Given that our outages are usually relatively short (<4 hours), having an immediate, battery backup that would last many hours (possibly days) is really appealing to me. Then, the generator would be relegated to a backup charging role, where surge load is not such an issue (or can be controlled). That said, I'm also thinking of retaining the ability to manually transfer the generator back to the transfer switch in the event that the inverter were to fail. Multi-layered redundancy tends to be part of my DNA after operating dispatch and data centers for decades. I can really identify with that old joke: "Yes, I know I'm being paranoid, but am I being paranoid enough??". ;)

Also, as you say, there are other potential benefits. For example, this path might allow me to start adding in some comforts, as well as the basic necessities, which would be really nice when the power goes out. Secondarily, although I don't have any immediate plans to do so, it would also provide the basis for adding solar to the mix. We'll see.

With regard to battery backup sump pumps, I actually have one of those here, but have not installed it due to practical issues. The sump pits are relatively narrow, and there just doesn't seem to be a good way to add the backup pump in without possibly getting in the way of the primary pump. Then, there are all the horror stories I have heard about 12V pump issues, including reduced capacity, unreliability, never-ending, piercing alarm tones, etc. Maybe these are not the issues that I worry they are, but they don't leave me with a real sense of confidence.

As always, thanks for your comments. They are always well-considered and helpful.

Cheers,
Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
looks like 6 gauge.
hard to tell with out an reference as the red wire insulation could be thick.

50amp... on the interlock panel...
so is this a sub panel and only supplies power to the
4 breakers?
one 15 amp
three 20 amp
looks to be room to expand on that part..
Thanks, Paul.

6 is what I thought, too, but I will have an electrician confirm. Looking at the tables it looks like it is rated for 60 amps in the 90 degree column, and that should be safe for the 50 amp transfer switch/subpanel.

As for circuits, yes, there are only the 4 on the panel, and I agree that this seems light. However, the main purpose of this installation was to keep the various pumps working, and I'm sure they were thinking about the overall surge draw. There are two 1/3 HP sump pumps, one 1 HP grinder, a few pot lights in the hall, and two outlets in the kitchen. From what I have found in various calculators here is a rough estimate of what I think the load will look like including what I want to add (fridge, freezer, well pump):

Image


Without those items, it looks like our current run load is 4840w, and surge is 7040w (assuming that all are running at the same time), which is likely why they stopped there. So, that's why I was wanting to determine if the wiring and transfer switch could support more if I were to get a bigger generator. This is also what sent me down the path of looking at inverters, as they have so much more surge capacity to accommodate these high inductive loads, and that would leave me the ability to add more things without exceeding the run capacity of the inverter.

Thanks again.

Shaun
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Hi, folks,

Busy week with work, and I also have been down a rabbit-hole learning about larger inverter chargers (not inverter generators). Seriously considering going that route and tying the generator into the inverter to recharge batteries. Is anyone here doing this? I would appreciate the relative certainty of the inverter keeping the sump pumps going for several hours in case the generator doesn't start, or decides to grenade like mine recently did. :eek:

As an aside, there was a request some time ago to post a picture of the inside of the transfer switch. I finally got a moment to remove the front panel:

Image


There was also discussion around what gauge the wiring was. I looked for markings on it, but was not able to find any. Here is a closeup:

Image


Can anyone tell what gauge the heavy wiring is?

Thanks, all. Have a great weekend!

Shaun