When I ordered that kit, I was trying to like "cross reference" the parts. Every where else the filter was like 30-40$ and pretty much the same with the oil filter! The set came and it's all genuine gerac parts! I was not expecting that! Thank you again for you help!! I printed off the manual and troubleshooting manual, went threw and highlighted and made notes. Got to find my gap tool now lol

 

An FYI...

The spark plug (Generac 0G0767A / Champion RC12YC) in the maintenance kit probably comes gapped at .035" - .040" and should be re-gapped to .030".

 

URL links can be added by highlighting the word(s) and then clicking the icon below that looks like two chain links. You put the URL link in the top of the box that pops up.

 

I don't know how you do the "this" with the link attached to it! but it honestly the coolest thing to me! Lol I am probably going to just spice the charger for now. I have a friend who is a electrician that is going to help me run outlets inside the house, I may see if we can add that to the list! I know this unit is old but we just bought the house. I've been looking at newer units. I know this one may not have long to go. I'm really hoping it does, odviously lol... But I doubt it. Especially after seeing it so low on oil the other day.... But I really appreciate your help! I did download and print off the manuals. Thank you for that again! I also got the weekly "auto run" set now! Thank you so much for all your help!

 

Is there a way to equip them with a charger? For example can I put a trickle charger on the battery of the unit? Or is that a bad idea? Also I know some of the older models you can buy a "unit" to make it "smart" is this possible with this unit? Thank you again boss!

 

buy a "unit" to make it "smart" is this possible with this unit?

I don't see any reason that you should not be able to do that since the battery trickle charger is independent of the control board.

I would recommend a smart charger like this one, this one, or similar. I would use a smart charger that has at least 3A capability since it has to supply the gen with 12VDC when it is running or not. Smart chargers can safely be left on the battery 24/7 without the potential damage that trickle chargers cause.

You could do an easy install by cutting off the leads on the existing charger and the smart charger, and then splicing it in with soldered joints and heat shrink. A more complicated way would be to install a 120V receptacle inside the gen that is fed by the 120V wiring of the existing charger.

Be sure to disconnect power to the gen before working on it. Pulling the fuses in the transfer switch should do that, and then double-check with a meter that the gen does not have power.

 

Thank you so much! I really appreciate your help! I have spent quite a bit of time on Google trying to find the information there, but I guess the unit is to old. Some of it matched up, but did not want to trust partial information. I made both posts at the same time. I am part of a few forums. But a lot of forms I've tried joining ,didn't have very many people answering questions after theirs were answered. But thank you for your help and time! I really do appreciate you!

 

I have no idea when it was last maintained

My question is with the panel the top light is solid green stating systems go,,,, but all the buttons below it are flashing red

Since you don't know the maintenance history of the unit, I would recommend having the battery load tested. The Corepower units don't have a smart charger and the batteries tend to not last more than 3-4 years.

Regarding the flashing lights, the gen may not have the exercise time set. See this.

If you don't have the manuals, the owner manual is here, and the diagnostic manual is here.

I think the correct maintenance kit is this.

 

Generac CorePower 7kW Home Standby Generator System model 0058370

 

I’m all outa breath reading your post…
And no idea of make/model generator that you’re wanting maintenance info for 🤷

 

The post is for 7k 0058370 so figured it was specific for this model....... Sorry if my punctuation isn't appropriate for you....

 

Hello everyone I just bought a home.I have never had a standby generator. this is my first one, and I know I have to do the annual maintenance,, coming up I think I'm going to do it next week¡ I have no idea when it was last maintained¡ we did have a power outage today The machine did not start on its own... We had one other power outage since we've been here,,, and we've only been here two months¡¡… It started on its own worked the first time… this time I came home all power was out …so I went out and I checked …¡I put it into manual It started up and then I quickly decided to shut it off,, and figure out why it didn't start on its own… I pulled the fuse on the board it was fine,,, I put it back in ,,check the oil it was low…¡ I filled it up put it back on auto and it started up and worked fine¡¡… My question is with the panel the top light is solid green stating systems go,,,, but all the buttons below it are flashing red¡¿¡¿ It was not doing this until I pulled the fuse did I do something wrong? ¿¡¿Also does anybody have a part number or website in which to get a kit for maintenance oil change air filter etc?? Thank you so much for any and all help in advance¡¡¡¡

 

Plenty of options online: Amazon.com : remote temperature monitor with alarm

In my case, I use a combination of products because I already have other IoTs and smart devices at home.

I use these Zigbee sensors and put them in every room in the house. You could put one inside your generator enclosure:

SONOFF SNZB-02 ZigBee Mini Indoor Temperature and Humidity Sensor for Checking the Room Climate, SONOFF ZigBee Bridge Required, Indoor Thermometer Hygrometer with Alert, Works with Alexa, Google Home - - Amazon.com

SONOFF SNZB-02 ZigBee Mini Indoor Temperature and Humidity Sensor for Checking the Room Climate, SONOFF ZigBee Bridge Required, Indoor Thermometer Hygrometer with Alert, Works with Alexa, Google Home - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Then you'll need one of these hubs to which the sensors connect to (via Zigbee) and connects them to the internet (via WiFi or wired ethernet).

Amazon.com: MOES Tuya ZigBee 3.0 Hub/Wired Gateway, WiFi Smart Home Bridge Remote Controller, Compatible with Alexa/Google Assistant, Work with Tuya ZigBee Smart Device, White : Electronics

Amazon.com: MOES Tuya ZigBee 3.0 Hub/Wired Gateway, WiFi Smart Home Bridge Remote Controller, Compatible with Alexa/Google Assistant, Work with Tuya ZigBee Smart Device, White : Electronics

www.amazon.com

or

SONOFF ZBBridge Smart Zigbee Bridge Hub, WI-FI & Zigbee Dual-protocol Supporting, APP Control and Multi-device Management: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

SONOFF ZBBridge Smart Zigbee Bridge Hub, WI-FI & Zigbee Dual-protocol Supporting, APP Control and Multi-device Management: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Finally, you'll need the app for the above hub of your choice (whether it's Tuya/Smart Life or eWelink/SonOff) on your phone to set them all up, which also lets you integrate it with voice assistants such as Alexa or Google Home. It enables you to ask "Alexa, what is the temperature (or humidity) in the bedroom?", etc. If you don't need that, the app lets you set it up in such a way that it can notify you when a certain temperature or humidity threshold is reached. If you have smart devices, in addition to sending you a notification, it can also do things like or turn a light on, like a colored smart bulb (ie. light it up RED as a visual warning for anyone in the house) or turn on a 2nd exhaust fan in the enclosure, etc. Compared to using a basic remote thermometer/hygrometer, these smart devices are much more flexible.... if you're that guy.

 

Great information, thanks! Oh, and I might be 'that guy'. 😁

Cheers,
Shaun

 

From the perspective of monitoring temps inside the enclosure, I'd appreciate any input on options for suitable thermometers. Ideally, I'd love to have something in there permanently that would monitor temperature and report alerts (via WiFi) when things exceed established thresholds. Any suggestions?

Cheers,
Shaun

 

Hi, folks.

Well, a lot of time has passed, and I haven't had much time to work on the project, but I have finally accomplished phase 1 (generator in enclosure with manual start/transfer). Here are a few pictures:

I just realized that I didn't grab a pic of the fan and louvers from the inside. Will do that.

I think it looks pretty reasonable, and it looked even better once the silicone had dried to clear. There's definitely no hiding what's inside, but that's not unexpected. I also notice that the lid of the enclosure looks a bit distorted in these pics, and it is, but that is because it was propped up on one side during all the installation work. It very quickly returns to its normal shape once it is allowed to lay flat for a few minutes.

Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out, and operating noise is quite well-contained. Interior temps seem to be very reasonable so far, but I'll definitely do some additional testing to be sure. The fan/louvers seem to be working well, and the exhaust heat is minimal. The exhaust inside the shed is built in layers with a flexible steel extension running to the outside of the shed, surrounded with a layer of ceramic fiber insulation, and then the metal dryer vent outlet around that. I still have some more testing to do, but after running for about 30 minutes, the exhaust was warm (of course), but I could still leave my hand on it for a second without issue. This was on a 33C/91F day, and it seems very reasonable to me.

Next step will be to get going on the inverter/charger unit so the generator can be relegated to backup charging duties. The batteries took about 3 months to arrive, but I now have pretty much all that I need to progress, and I want to have phase 2 in service before winter.

Sincere thanks to all who have provided input so far!

Cheers,
Shaun

 

Hindsight is 20/20. I used a suicide cord some 25 years ago and man, the twenty-something version of me would think it was a brilliant idea. That's besides the fact that the thing almost "bit" me a couple of times.

If a time machine exists, I'd go back and give myself a meaty smack in the face.

 

Yes, I did the same, and came up with this one, too, but way down the list. From everything I have read online, this configuration is quite rare, and even this ready-made cord is apparently custom made at time of order (per corddepot.com). I've sent them a note asking if they can custom make it in a shorter length.

As an aside, they indicate that they will custom-make any cord to your specifications, so I have asked about one that is male on both ends to match the readily-available female inlet boxes. I think I'd prefer that second option, as then it would be compatible with inlet boxes that I can find locally.

Thanks again for helping me get on the right path!

Shaun

 

From everything I have read online, this configuration is quite rare, and even this ready-made cord is apparently custom made at time of order (per corddepot.com).

You could consider going with a different style inlet box. Search for "NEMA 14-50P to SS2-50R Extension Cord with NEMA SS2-50P Generator Inlet". Walmart shows a 7ft. cord available.

http://goto.walmart.com/c/404739/56...-50amp-Camper-Plug-14-50P-to-SS2-50R-Marine-Twist-Lock-Receptacle-7FT/634217214

I have not read thru this entire thread, so I am not sure what you are trying to do. But it is possible that you can run PVC conduit between shed and house? You could use junction boxes and/or LB pull boxes and then make up your own short cord over to the gen. Should be much cheaper to do that.

 

I just Googled "14-50 Cord and Inlet Box" and came up with that.

 

Are you looking for something like this?

 

Yes, thanks, although I now need to find someone who has them in stock. I really don't need a cord this long as it is just going in the generator shed, but if this is all there is, then I guess that's what I need.

I appreciate the help!

Shaun

 

You want the inlet box to be male, not female.

 

Makes sense -- I just haven't been able to find one with a male connector of that type yet. All that I have seen so far are twist lock. I'll keep looking.

Cheers,
Shaun

 

Hi, Folks.

I'm working my way through ordering all the parts I'll need for the shed, and need to figure out what kind of inlet box to get. On the generator side, I plan to use the L14-50R outlet, which is fine, and there are intlet boxes that use the same female connector. Problem is, this would require a cord with two male ends, and I can seem to find any like that. Also, I don't seem to be able to find any inlet boxes that have a male connector that would match all the cords I can find. Can anyone let me know what the proper combination would be, in this case?

Thanks,
Shaun

 

Okay, back to the generator setup!

During the week, Home Depot got in contact, and let me know that my BMS3400 shed had come in. So, I unpacked it today, and started having a look at how it goes together (pretty simple!!). After ordering this shed, I noticed a few posts indicating that it might be tight for a generator larger than 6000w, so I was a bit concerned. However, now that I have the generator sitting in it, I think it's going to be fine (as long I don't use really thick insulation). The exhaust on my Firman unit exits to the right, so clearance at the back isn't a huge issue, and the only things close to the front and back are the wheels (which could come off, if needed). Aside from the wheels, I have about 3.5" of clearance at the back, and over 4" at the front (and that's to the frame -- actual components are further). With the airflow I am planning for, I don't think that should be any problem at all. For comparison, looking inside the enclosure of the failed Generac unit, there is MUCH less clearance than with this shed. I'm definitely open to any thoughts on this, though.

Before ordering fans, louvers, insulation, etc., I wanted to get the shed here so could measure things. Having done that today, here is what I am thinking of using:

Fan/Shutter:

https://www.amazon.ca/iPower-Shutter-Exhaust-Aluminum-1550RPM/dp/B08QHJHF5D/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2M9F5NFZJ9BWI&keywords=16%22+generator+fan+shutter&qid=1642308010&sprefix=16+generator+fan+shutte%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-5

Intake:

I'm thinking that something that will naturally block noise would be good, so perhaps something more than simple open vents. Maybe something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MG1JG5Z/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07MG1JG5Z&pd_rd_w=KKbnt&pf_rd_p=a2b32c5b-02b0-4273-a3c7-c6bfabb067a2&pd_rd_wg=YtXzD&pf_rd_r=RBZECMR7QPX6PY62KZ04&pd_rd_r=8cf6ccc6-a13c-45d1-84fc-36a769253dc6&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUEY4RVlXRFo1SVpFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTk2OTYwTEJQOTFEWkE0Rlg5JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMTczNzYxOU5JNjFGM0hMWDlZJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Not sure exactly how I would mount it, though, as it is meant to be installed in thick walls. There might well be something better out there, so I would really welcome input on this one.

Insulation:

Both heat and sound protection are important, so something reflective with some ability to absorb sound would be appreciated.

This would work well for heat, and the fire rating is great, but it doesn't say anything about noise:

Amazon.ca

Does anyone know how effective this might be?

Once again, thanks for any advice that you might have.

Cheers,
Shaun

 

Thanks for the great suggestions, gentlemen! I'll keep you posted on progress.

Cheers,
Shaun

 

This forum is great for equipment advice (solar, inverters, batteries, etc.), off-grid, grid-tied, or anything else:

https : //diysolarforum.com

 

I believe you are grid-tied? I'm off-grid, so I run solar/genny power thru a Magnum 4024 inverter/charger (solar via a midnite classic mppt) ... it takes care of charging our LiFePO4 battery bank; when not charging, then it feeds the house from the battery bank. The battery bank feeds the house for upwards of 24 hours or more, in between being topped off by solar, or charged by genny during non-solar times.

Is this what you are asking about?

It gets tricky if you are grid-tied, as all kinds of regulations come into play ... an electrician is almost certainly called for to sort through the wiring issues.

If grid-tied, you could get away with a inverter/charger and a battery bank, w/ no solar or mppt; when grid is on, the inverter/charger draws from that to top off the bank. when grid is down, inverter feeds the circuits, and genny is tied in at times to replenish the bank.

Hope this helps ...

 

Yes, we are grid-tied, so I am really looking more for practical backup power than extended off-grid capability. That said, having the option to add solar in the future is somewhat appealing. I still need to do a bunch of research to see if it makes sense, though, particularly as we are in a heavily-forested area, which limits the amount of direct sunlight we get.

Having an electrician look into this is definitely part of the plan, regardless. I'm certainly familiar with the concepts, design, etc., but the actual mechanics of electrical work are not my strength (low-voltage is another story, though). I find the electrical component to be interesting, and will follow closely, but I know better than to trust myself with this portion of the project.

Yes, I'm thinking of operating just as you describe, and am researching what might work best. Do you know of a good forum for input on inverter chargers, etc.? From my limited research, it looks like companies like Outback and Magnum are the established (and expensive) players (made in USA), followed by the likes of Victron (designed in the Netherlands, built in China), then a whole lot of made-in-China brands, some of which are getting to be really good, while others aren't. I'm trying to find the right balance for my situation, and am currently thinking that Victron might be a good choice, with its variable-charge "generator assist" function. Another option that might fit would be an Aimes product, like this:

6000 Watt Pure Sine Inverter Charger 24Vdc / 240Vac Input & 120/240Vac Split Phase Output

6000 Watt Pure Sine Inverter Charger - 24 Volt

www.aimscorp.net

Still lots to learn, though, and I have a list of about a dozen questions that I am tracking down answers for. This forum has been very helpful, and it would be nice to find an equivalent related to that side of emergency power.

Thanks again.

Shaun

 

Looks like 6awg hard to say though. I’m surprised with a 7000watt generator only 4 spaces were filled.

An inverter charger and battery bank is a very expensive solution for a sump pump. It obviously can be used for lots of other electrical needs as well. It’s neat how they can bypass the battery and supply grid or generator power when availible. But if the sump pump is the main or only concern a 12v battery backup pump kit is fairly inexpensive.

Battery Backup Sump Pumps

Battery Backup Sump Pump superstore. Huge selection of Battery Back Up Sump Pumps. Buy Battery Backup Pump Direct and save.

www.sumppumpsdirect.com

 

Yes, you're right, it is an expensive option, and I don't take that lightly. However, I'm looking for peace of mind -- particularly if I am traveling. The thought of my wife trying to figure out what to do if the generator were not to start, or if it blew up, or if the starting battery were to die, etc., leaves me with a real sense of unease. Even worse, if we are both away, what then? Given that our outages are usually relatively short (<4 hours), having an immediate, battery backup that would last many hours (possibly days) is really appealing to me. Then, the generator would be relegated to a backup charging role, where surge load is not such an issue (or can be controlled). That said, I'm also thinking of retaining the ability to manually transfer the generator back to the transfer switch in the event that the inverter were to fail. Multi-layered redundancy tends to be part of my DNA after operating dispatch and data centers for decades. I can really identify with that old joke: "Yes, I know I'm being paranoid, but am I being paranoid enough??".

Also, as you say, there are other potential benefits. For example, this path might allow me to start adding in some comforts, as well as the basic necessities, which would be really nice when the power goes out. Secondarily, although I don't have any immediate plans to do so, it would also provide the basis for adding solar to the mix. We'll see.

With regard to battery backup sump pumps, I actually have one of those here, but have not installed it due to practical issues. The sump pits are relatively narrow, and there just doesn't seem to be a good way to add the backup pump in without possibly getting in the way of the primary pump. Then, there are all the horror stories I have heard about 12V pump issues, including reduced capacity, unreliability, never-ending, piercing alarm tones, etc. Maybe these are not the issues that I worry they are, but they don't leave me with a real sense of confidence.

As always, thanks for your comments. They are always well-considered and helpful.

Cheers,
Shaun

 

looks like 6 gauge.
hard to tell with out an reference as the red wire insulation could be thick.

50amp... on the interlock panel...
so is this a sub panel and only supplies power to the
4 breakers?
one 15 amp
three 20 amp
looks to be room to expand on that part..

 

Thanks, Paul.

6 is what I thought, too, but I will have an electrician confirm. Looking at the tables it looks like it is rated for 60 amps in the 90 degree column, and that should be safe for the 50 amp transfer switch/subpanel.

As for circuits, yes, there are only the 4 on the panel, and I agree that this seems light. However, the main purpose of this installation was to keep the various pumps working, and I'm sure they were thinking about the overall surge draw. There are two 1/3 HP sump pumps, one 1 HP grinder, a few pot lights in the hall, and two outlets in the kitchen. From what I have found in various calculators here is a rough estimate of what I think the load will look like including what I want to add (fridge, freezer, well pump):

Without those items, it looks like our current run load is 4840w, and surge is 7040w (assuming that all are running at the same time), which is likely why they stopped there. So, that's why I was wanting to determine if the wiring and transfer switch could support more if I were to get a bigger generator. This is also what sent me down the path of looking at inverters, as they have so much more surge capacity to accommodate these high inductive loads, and that would leave me the ability to add more things without exceeding the run capacity of the inverter.

Thanks again.

Shaun