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I just don't see myself getting full 100lb bottles out of the back end of the truck. And yeah, there are ways to do it.
We have an off-grid cottage a couple hundred yards from the road. The gas delivery guys sometimes complain about lugging the hundred pound tanks back in there, but they have really nice dollies for lowering the tanks off the truck and bringing them in the narrow trail.
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The final 50 feet..
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Discussion starter · #42 ·
So, I'm thumbing through Marketplace and came across one of these.
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Add said Cambro Plate Dolly. 50 bucks.
No model number or measurements.

I could see a dinner plate being about 12 inches in diameter, so I googled for more info.

Just comparing pictures I found this. cambro-adjustable-dish-caddy-black.html

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Plate sizes: 9-1/4″ to 13″ diam.
4 Columns (60 each)
Total Capacity: 240

Spec sheet says capacity is 500 lbs.

So I committed to buying it.
It only had one of the dividers with it, so I had to come up with a way to secure tanks in it.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
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I had 6 of the strap/buckle things so I'll use 4 of them on this cart.
The web straps had a hole burnt in them already, but I wanted a way to spread the foot print of the fender washers out, so again, I found these nylon gizmos in my extensive pile of crap.
Had to go to town to get 8 fender washers the same size. ARGH

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Discussion starter · #46 ·
I used 1/4x20 threaded rivets that I had on hand.
Did a trial hole on the bottom to see if they would work.
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I couldn't pull the insert out with vise-grips, so I called it good.
I discovered this thing is foam filled when I drilled the holes.

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Discussion starter · #47 ·
These 20lb tanks are 18 inches tall. The 40lb will be 30 inches tall IIRC.
I am still thinking on getting the tops of the tanks secured when the 40's stick up above the dolly a few inches.

I have some solid tire/wheels that will work if this gets tipsy when loaded down.
I will put solid axles in place of the swivel casters and mount the wheels outboard.

If you guys see anything that needs attention on this idea, PLEASE speak up.

I'll have more later,
Randall
 
One of the things I read said, Don't drive up in a passenger vehicle and pull your tank out of the car and expect us to fill it. We cannot put a filled tank back in your enclosed vehicle. You must transport filled containers in open air.
And, they must be secured in the upright position when full.
Yup, 100% correct about keeping them upright - full or empty. It mainly has to do with the safety vent. Here in Texas it was a $500 fine a couple of decades ago...probably more now.

I think some states also limit how many tanks you can transport in a given vehicle without a lot of other restrictions coming into play like having a placard, operator training, and documentation.

I like the cart and the DIY straps. I don't use propane (I have NG), but I would hate to lug a bunch of the tanks around. The cart looks like a winner for keeping them upright and secure.
 
some city's have limits on how much LP on a property as well.
they have this here at my location.
part of the fire department rules.
same on gasoline.
and is lower quantity's inside storage structures.
but you can get permits from the DNR for more storage
and you need to clear post on structures what is stored and how much.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
some city's have limits on how much LP on a property as well.

part of the fire department rules
Yeah, I will go into town and talk to the Fire Chief on the storage aspects.
They would be the ones to take the call, although we are rural and there would be 3 or 4 other depts. showing up.
Had a combine fire a quarter mile south of me about a month ago. Lots of water trucks showed up.
Whenever I burn a brush pile I always call in and let them know.

This is what the 30 inch tall tank would look like.

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ahhh
yea out in the sticks and not in a housing development.
big TANKS are the right thing for the fuel.

transport on LP on the streets and high way is another BIG thing.
so check in with dot rules on tank transport.
but a bulk tank delivery to a large tank is a proper way to go.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Just a brief update, after a test run yesterday before this negative 30 F windchill crap got here.
Under load for about 30 minutes. Forgot to check the clock. Parked the valves when done.

I had taken the battery out and brought it inside, so there is now an extra step in getting the gen running, although its not a problem at all.

I did go into town and talk to the fire dept about the storage of the smaller portable tanks.
Must have been a slow day there. I ask for the Chief by name, and he was tied up, but sent out one of his fireman to talk to me. Before it was all over there were 5 or 6 firemen on my side of the glass talking about propane generators.
The local rule is a permanent bulk tank must be 10 ft. away from the structure.
They said the little tanks could be fastened to the house if I wanted, like an RV.
They were most concerned about the location of the gen from the structure openings.

I also have gone to the nearest Atwoods which is one of the fill points and talk to the person that does the filling of the small tanks. Nothing new learned there. Must be upright and secured for transport and an open air vehicle.

Nothing to update on the gen shack. I've got a plan in my head and been looking at what I have on hand to put that together.
 
I registered purely to thank @highwater for this thorough walkthrough of this generator. I have the same unit, and was beyond frustrated trying to find compatible parts for it. I don't know if it's because it's still a newish model or what, but finding the info here was a huge help. I was able to get the dipstick and drain plug mentioned here and they both work perfect. My one question to you, highwater, is do you have any tips for changing the oil? It seems the quick drain hose was added not for convenience, but more for necessity. With the plug set back so far and all the "clutter" for lack of a better word in front of it, it seems like once I finish my break-in period it's going to be a pain to change the oil without making a mess. I'm already thinking I might need to remove the battery just to open more access when I do it.

Thanks again for the great information.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Hi @201176. Love your avatar. HAHA.
My one question to you, highwater, is do you have any tips for changing the oil?
Back in post #26 on page 2, I used a wood block to prop up the battery end of the gen. I have since made that into a "permanent" fixture that I use to change oil.
I'll take a picture after it gets daylight, and explain how I use it to change oil.

Since I also removed the battery and brought it inside, I have left the lower end panel off where you get to the battery.

That end panel is really just cosmetic IMHO, unless you are throwing the gen around in the back of a truck for construction, etc, it might provide some protection for the battery.

And Genknot provided the info for the magnetic stuff. Thanks to him and other members here.
 
It seems the quick drain hose was added not for convenience, but more for necessity. With the plug set back so far and all the "clutter" for lack of a better word in front of it
I have similar situation with my gen. I find it easier to change the oil with the gen elevated with some 4X4 blocks similar to what highwater does. Then let the drain hose go into my pan.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
From the day after (13th) the last exercise run which was on the 12th until today, we had not seen the sun.
Most of the time you couldn't see the tops of the line poles.
Fog, low ceiling. mist, rain, ice, freakin wind.
Then today......
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Discussion starter · #59 ·
So I waited until the frost burned off to take some requested pitchurs of my oil change process.
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Thats the cover that I leave off for easier access to plug the battery in, and do an oil change.
The wood block contraption is to raise up the oil change end so I can swap out the magnetic drain plug for the drain hose.

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I do turn the gen around 180 to get to the drain, from the posistion I run it when connected to the house.
The 2x6 piece could be a little longer to catch the width of both wheels.
When its propped up this way I remove the magnetic drain plug and screw the factory hose back in. Finger tight works fine.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Once the drain hose is back in place, I take the wood block out and move the gen to where the hose can fall off the concrete and into the old style 1 gallon paint thinner, etc type metal can(see previous posts).

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Put the wood block there so there was a reference to the height of the slab.

This extra height allows the old body some relief from getting all the way down on the ground.
Pretty sure the gen shack is going to have a rack to get the gen up higher.
 
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