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Yeah I'm sticking the the manufacturer recommendations of 5W-30 Synthetic. In addition to the graph above the manual states:

"Synthetic oil may be used after the 5 hour initial break-in period. Using synthetic oil does not decrease the recommended oil change interval. Full synthetic 5W-30 oil will aid in starting in cold ambient < 41º F (5º C) temperatures."

I'll have some extra oil and a backup recommended NGK (7133) BPR6ES-11 Spark Plug set away just in case.

I do plan to due my first oil change sooner than recommended to be sure everything is clean internally. I'll probably stick with standard oil until that 2nd change before going to 5W-30 synthetic. Maybe after 15-20 hours usage and then go to the recommended schedule.
yup a 6 pack of plugs is a good plan! you never know when you will foul or get a bad new plug.
as well as a couple of air filters if they are foam, a 6 pack if they are paper.
a few gallons of oil.
carb cleaner etc. on fluids list.
think stores will be closed or low on stock if there is an event.

99% of the time a good 5-30 syn has you covered unless the temps are over 120f
then switch to 30w syn single wt.
and fan on the gen set and run it in the shade.
high temps are super hard on gens of any brand.
 

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Using synthetic oil does not decrease the recommended oil change interval But in an emergency situation, it’s nice to know that you can keep the frig cold, because the Amsoil is good up to 200 hours. It would suck to have to shut down simply because you were over hours due to a lesser oil. Remember, generators are usually run in emergencies and it’s uncertain when everything returns to normal. Good idea to have spares and fuel for those situations…
 

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back in the day suburu had a gen set that was a 10kw maybe 13kw peak.
i had one.
gee it was only $1300.00 usd in 1990 dollars at cost.
this later model one might be close to the old one
RGV12100 ON THE NEWER UNIT
we used it on an under ground dod govt contract site for close to 6 weeks.
it only shut off for fuel and oil changes.
there were 6 of us getting power off that unit with a big 50 amp snake feeding in to an BIG custom gfci octa box.
we used 4/4 wire on that LONG run.
nice for operating a core drill and hammer drill.
and tig welders for stainless.

cool gen set.
one of the other contractors bought for the price we had in it when we were done!
longer story on that lol!

yup spin oil systems rock for sure. most are 200 - 400 hour on the oil changes depending on how clean the air is.
diesel is even longer run time on service than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well seeing as I'm surrounded by like minded people that think having a backup generator just makes good sense, I'll show you the complete package I bought. I think some of you will appreciate it.


As I mentioned, I bought the Champion model #200973 3650-Watt Dual Fuel Generator


The Champion Medium Weather Proof Cover (This will be on when it's stored away)



The Champion Storm Shield Severe Weather Cover



... and a Champion 25 ft. 30 Amp 125-Volt Fan-Style Flat Generator Extension Cord (great for going under doors)

 

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cool on the 120 vac 30amp cord

make sure to get a walk on protection for the cord as well.
they make those rubber units for traffic areas.

yea plug up any holes as mud daubers and other critters like to hide under covers when stored.
i had to get covers for my custom para ports on my inlet
darn daubers using the 4mm holes!

that gen tent should last a long time!
i would spray silicone treat it asap.
and re treat it every year or two.
makes the water role off easy and easy clean up too.
 

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Always happy to see someone join the Champion team. I've got two of them, both dual fuel. I've got a 100296 bigger one and a 2000W dual fuel. The plan being to run the little one at night, just to run a small window A/C and the fridge, saving a bunch of propane overnight. I've only run mine on propane and would prefer to keep it that way. As they are just for back up emergency power, it saves the whole gummed up carb problem. There is a lot of good advice here so as not to have the gas problems. So, if your primary fuel is going to be gas then I would do some research here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Always happy to see someone join the Champion team. I've got two of them, both dual fuel. I've got a 100296 bigger one and a 2000W dual fuel. The plan being to run the little one at night, just to run a small window A/C and the fridge, saving a bunch of propane overnight. I've only run mine on propane and would prefer to keep it that way. As they are just for back up emergency power, it saves the whole gummed up carb problem. There is a lot of good advice here so as not to have the gas problems. So, if your primary fuel is going to be gas then I would do some research here.
I plan on doing the same but will be prepared to run on gas if needed. I know that you do get a bit longer runtime and a bit more power using gasoline but I don't mind. I have my generator actually stored, for now, inside the house. I dont have a garage or outdoor storage shed and running it on propane will keep it from smelling like a gas pump.
 

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high and dry and warm is a great plan on a NG or LP gen set.

on LP or NG only gen with no gasoline in the tank you can always add on a closed in porch area just to store the gen set and be able to wheel it out fast when needed.
 

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5-W-30 full Synthetic according to the chart. What brand? What is on sale. I prefer Mobil 1, why? Because after 20+ years of usage on different vehicles I never had an engine that blew up on me, and I find good deals on it. I use on my Gen Castrol for now, but will switch to Mobile 1. I can get that oil on sale and fit most all my cars, except for the wife's VW Bettle and my 2020 Duramax 2500 HD W/T.

What hurt the engine the most is Stop / Start sequences and changes of speed. An engine running at a constat speed wears out the least. Synthetics does not sludge as bad as Conventionals, and you can go longer with oil changes; save more money at the end.

When it comes to oil, there is always the which one is the best. I do not buy Amsoil or Royal Purple, not because they are bad, they are too darn expensive and I see little gain; but that is my opinion.

Now here is some that I have not seen in ages, Slick 50 and Dura Lube. I wonder if those products works better on Air Cooled Gens? They are supposed to have teflon, coats the journals and passeges. Anybody had experience on those products?
 

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Hello, I just bought the Champion model #200973 3650-Watt Dual Fuel Generator and I'm wondering about the oil. Initially I had thought about going with a synthetic oil due to a slightly wider temperature operation range and I posed a question to Champion support with that in mind, which by the way they have fantastic support I'll post their response below. I since have changed my mind (I think) and will probably just stick to a standard 10W-30. I haven't put the oil that came with it in yet and I'm wondering if I shouldn't buy a different oil, a "better" oil? Maybe something from Castrol that I could leave in instead of flushing after the break in period just to go synthetic. I'm new to this and unsure what would be the best. Any suggestions?

View attachment 10423
During the initial five-hour break-in period, we recommend using standard 10W-30. This type of oil makes it easier to seat the rings of the piston. Once the break-in period has been completed, be sure to flush the oil. You can then use the 5W-30 synthetic oil thereafter.

During the break in period stay at or below 50% of the running watt rating and vary the load occasionally to allow stator windings to heat and cool. As with all new engines, the piston rings and cylinder need to be broken in. This is important for the newly manufactured cylinder wall and rings to seat themselves.

It is not necessary to run the generator for five hours straight to do the break-in period. The generator can run for five hours over any period up until they reach those five hours.



I do own generators since 1999 and always used Mobil One 10W30. As of today, they all have performed flawlessly. The 1999, recently died but it was not the engine that died. It was te electrical part that burned. The engine is becoming a go-kart engine. Right now, all my three generators; 2 Hondas EU7000is and a Firman 9000 watt dual fuel, all use Mobil One 10W30.
 

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Small engines are treated like pets in our culture -- extravagant treatment (cutting edge engine oil and boutique dog foods and supplements) -- both are given care and feeding with products that far exceed their needs. It really is all psychological.

"but I want the best for my pet/generator." Fair enough but it likely doesn't matter and you'll over-pay through your lifetime.

We don't commonly see threads about generators failing due to using substandard oils. I'm pretty sure that you could run any oil that meets specs and find no difference in the life of the unit.

But that's just my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it! It's psychological!
 

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Yep, everyone has their own opinion, preference, experience, flavour…. But, what if you really experience an emergency? Like an emergency that has an uncertain end with the possibility of dragging on for weeks. Besides fuel availability being the most urgent what about having the best maintenance items at the ready?! And a few spares to boot! Most of the folks here have experienced a power outage as an inconvenience. That’s usually not an emergency. When you’ve experienced days and sometimes weeks without power… now your fingers are crossed hoping everything holds up. That’s why some of us want the best to be ready for the big “what if.” Ask someone who’s been there… Then there’s the folks that live off grid. They also don’t take their equipment for granted, like most here do. They want the best because the cost of generating your own power is not cheap and the cost can be minimized by good fuel economy and equipment longevity.
 

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One thing I noticed is that all of the engine failures I've seen that is one way or another oil-related are pretty much due to running out of it.

So yeah... the best oil in the world won't save your genny if it doesn't have enough of it.
 

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Small engines have a common failure cycle usually ending with low oil level deaths.

Infrequent oil changes and/or insufficient oil promotes wear and deposits leading to oil consumption among other things which eventually leads to engine failure over time. All things wear out eventually but this a good way to accelerate it.

Power Equipment as a whole usually gets tossed due to what the engine is powering failing, and not so much the engine. Example: Pumps on a pressure washer, alternator on a generator, transmission on a mower.
 
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