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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Westinghouse WGen9500DF is less than a year old and it will not power up.. When you turn the battery switch to the on position, the battery light does not light up, nothing happens when you hit the automatic start button and trying to manually pull start does not work. sounds like its not firing... I have changed the battery and put a new trickle charger on it to keep it charged. I also checked the 10 amp fuse located behind the control box.. it was still good. So what next?
 

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I reviewed the user manual Schematic, that battery switch allows power to Generator AVR and allows the magneto to make a spark. An easy thing to check with a multi-meter would be to check for 12 VDC from battery positive (through the meter please) to frame. If that is not there need to find out why the battery negative is not at ground. If it is I would look for 12VDC to ground on the battery switch pin 2. If there is, pin 1 12VDC to ground with switch in the on position. Pin 3 has no connection. Pin 1 having power should power on the rest of the control circuits. Not looking at Pin 5 which is ground, or 4 (no connection) and 6 which grounds the spark primary coil in the off position. But you are not getting that far. After the switch connects Pin 2 to Pin 1 12VDC goes back to the AVR which appears to be doing more than automatic voltage control. The batt lamp is controlled by the AVR. If the AVR is getting power but things are not working, I would contact Westinghouse customer support. To Recap, just confirming that there is continuity from battery to ground and that the main switch is getting power and making it available to the AVR. At that point the AVR will light the lamp if it can. If not its beyond what I would attempt without some hand holding by tech support.
 

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My Westinghouse WGen9500DF is less than a year old and it will not power up.. When you turn the battery switch to the on position, the battery light does not light up, nothing happens when you hit the automatic start button and trying to manually pull start does not work. sounds like its not firing... I have changed the battery and put a new trickle charger on it to keep it charged. I also checked the 10 amp fuse located behind the control box.. it was still good. So what next?
track back the voltage from the battery to the ing switch etc.
a test light helps and is fast.
check both the battery plus and the negative as a system trace.
also check the battery cables and frame grounds....
does it sit outside?
or in a damp garage?
thinking rust on a bolt to cable....

rare but you could have a bad key switch.
 

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Not the AVR.

There seems to be an undocumented module that runs the electronic controls, including the "push-to-start", remote control, and the choke stepper motor, among others. I can't find it in any of the parts diagram or list. But it's definitely there in the schematics and is separate from the AVR. I've highlighted it in yellow.

When the Run switch is ON, 12V is sent to the Brown/Red (B/R) wire to this module. If there's 12V there but the module is still dead, the problem might lie within that module.

Check all obvious points of failure... B+ and B- (chassis ground), for starters.

Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Engineering
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I think I figured out my problem.. The switch is bad... I think.. the switch has three connections on the hot side and three on the neutral/ground side.. The top is the connections on the bottom of the picture. switch is upside down in pic... so, as you can see in the pic, the ground has wires on the top and middle connections and the hot side has wires on the middle and bottom.. So, when the switch is in the off position, the top and middle hot side connections are hot.. The bottom is dead.. When the switch is in the on position, the middle hot side connection is hot and the top and bottom are dead.. Don't make any sense to me because it worked fine just a month ago with it connected like this... (The top ground wire was bent by me.. it is still connected..)
Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Trunk Motor vehicle
 

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That's a weird one.

The way the toggle switch works is, if it's in the OFF (down) position, the Black and Black/White wires are connected but the Red and Brown/Red wires are disconnected. The reverse is true when the switch is turned ON (up).

So based on the picture you've shown, the wire that's been cut is the kill wire, which is or should be relevant only when the switch is OFF.

But anyway, try to mend that cut and see if the problem goes away. It may have been caused by corrosion in combination with mechanical vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's a weird one.

The way the toggle switch works is, if it's in the OFF (down) position, the Black and Black/White wires are connected but the Red and Brown/Red wires are disconnected. The reverse is true when the switch is turned ON (up).

So based on the picture you've shown, the wire that's been cut is the kill wire, which is or should be relevant only when the switch is OFF.

But anyway, try to mend that cut and see if the problem goes away. It may have been caused by corrosion in combination with mechanical vibration.
That wire is not cut. I bent it a little trying to pull the sheath up to get a good connection with my volt meter.. That is exactly how it came from the factory. its all still soldered together. I have not moved, cut or changed any hookups.. just pulled the cover off and checked voltages..
 

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That wire is not cut. I bent it a little trying to pull the sheath up to get a good connection with my volt meter.. That is exactly how it came from the factory. its all still soldered together. I have not moved, cut or changed any hookups.. just pulled the cover off and checked voltages..
Got it. It was just an optical illusion then.

With the switch ON, the two RED wires should have continuity.
With the switch OFF, the two BLACK wires should have continuity.

Is that what is happening?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the ground has wires on the top and middle connections and the hot side has wires on the middle and bottom.. So, when the switch is in the off position, the top and middle hot side connections are hot.. The bottom is dead.. When the switch is in the on position, the middle hot side connection is hot and the top and bottom are dead.. Don't make any sense to me because it worked fine just a month ago with it connected like this.
 

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In the OFF position, the black wire have continuity
In the ON position the red wires DO NOT have continuity.. they didn't ohm out...
That's it! There's your problem. Probably corrosion-related. Maybe if you spray some DeoxIT, it might still engage.

Thank you for the help... I have been in touch with Westinghouse and they are sending me a new switch...
That's great news. Good luck.
 

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i second the de oxit try

is it a rocker switch???
if it is,,,, they are not that reliable unless they are water proof.

you might be able to mod it later out of warranty with a toggle that is water proof.
pm if you need part numbers
 

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In the OFF position, the black wire have continuity
In the ON position the red wires DO NOT have continuity.. they didn't ohm out...
You guys rock... Pulled mine out yesterday to fire it up and make sure all was well. Same exact symptom. I opened the panel and found exact same condition. Pulled the switch through the front panel and put it all back together. With switch dangling out the front I used a clip lead to jump the hot side of the switch and the light came on, turned the switch to on position to break the ground side kill connection. Pressed the start button and she started up... Calling Westinghouse tomorrow to get a replacement but I can use it as is if needed. THANKS!!!!
 

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Not the AVR.

There seems to be an undocumented module that runs the electronic controls, including the "push-to-start", remote control, and the choke stepper motor, among others. I can't find it in any of the parts diagram or list. But it's definitely there in the schematics and is separate from the AVR. I've highlighted it in yellow.

When the Run switch is ON, 12V is sent to the Brown/Red (B/R) wire to this module. If there's 12V there but the module is still dead, the problem might lie within that module.

Check all obvious points of failure... B+ and B- (chassis ground), for starters.

View attachment 11168
Thanks for posting this snip of the schematic, the manual I received with the genny has the wrong schematic, was pulling my hair out trying to figure some things out. Went online and found the right one. Thanks..
 

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Same generator same problem. Had it replaced once last year, the first time the switch failed. Now it's failed again from a little bit of rain. Would love the part number for a water proof one. Glad I found this thread.
 

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You guys rock... Pulled mine out yesterday to fire it up and make sure all was well. Same exact symptom. I opened the panel and found exact same condition. Pulled the switch through the front panel and put it all back together. With switch dangling out the front I used a clip lead to jump the hot side of the switch and the light came on, turned the switch to on position to break the ground side kill connection. Pressed the start button and she started up... Calling Westinghouse tomorrow to get a replacement but I can use it as is if needed. THANKS!!!!
Was looking to do this myself. What did you jump it to?
 
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