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Discussion Starter #1
Hey ALL
Per Code..your Generator Should only have one point of grounding. So..when connecting to your house you Need to Unbond your Generator
I just Unbonded my Generator in preperation of hooking it up to a Manaul Transfer Switch on the house.
Seeing my power Cord (L14-30) from the generator has 4 wires. The Ground and Neutral will be in my Main Panel on the House.
So I have to UNBOND my Ground and Neutral on my Generator.
Below you wil see the Wire Diagram and a few Pic's of the switch I installed to UNBOND the NEUTRAL from the Ground on my Generator.
My Bonded Neutral was not on the Gen Head like most generators. My bond was on one of the outlets on the Generator electical panel.
When the Switch is up it will act like a normal on the job site generator. When the Switch is Down then the Neutral is Unbonded and the Power Cord to the House
connects Neutral and Ground to the Main Panel.
 

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i would do a key lock on that switch.
or a key switch.
also the bond switch needs to be LARGE amp switch.
30 - 40 amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
also the bond switch needs to be LARGE amp switch.
30 - 40 amps.
I was thinking the same thing until I looked at the wire diagram and Nope......
If you look at the diagram for the Generator the Bond was linked to a 20 Amp 120v outlet and had 12 gauge wire.
So, the switch is a 10A/240V-20A/120v rating and jumper wiring is 12AWG.
I also believe Ground wire can be 1 size smaller than the load wire...

I will ask at the GARAGE JUORNAL.....they got some good Sparkies over there.
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12 gauge wire is at a fuse link size.
designed to fail at that point.
and will stand more current... when it is a short run.

I stand by the larger switch statement...
better too large than too small.

and depending on the switch mfg as well!
if it was an American built switch.
and rated at 20 amps at 120 vac.
then as a maybe...

look at the switch charts real close from the good mfg's..
most are good for 40% of rated...

factor in a safety margin!
and over kill is a good thing!
 

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Below you wil see the Wire Diagram and a few Pic's of the switch I installed to UNBOND the NEUTRAL from the Ground on my Generator.
Not to be too much of a wet blanket, but the bond is meant to be mechanically attached. Not through teensy switch contacts. I would want the switch to be close to a rated mechanical in self-cleaning (non-)resistance, like a knife switch. Non-mechanical contacts get carboned up eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good points on the Switch........but I think 95% of the time I will be connected to the house. So, bonding thru the switch is not used.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I guess if I ever sell it. (Not sure what Type of Placard I would put on it)
And the Switch is rated for [email protected] will give the C/B Plenty of time to Do its job (Break the Circuit)
 

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You should be advised that bonded neutrals when connected to your home keep your GFIC' from working properly.
I am going to give you an example:
My present home was wired in the 50's with SEC (service entrance cable)
The bright electrician unwrapped the outer cover and put the 3-0 sec thru the cable clamp attached to the main box.
The wrap around two of the hot cables was the neutral. He made no effort to shield the neutral and just tightened the cable with the cable clamp.
I have tried everything and I cannot isolate the neutral from the chassis.
Believe you me, SEC is like steel, and no one in their right mind would alter a live 4-0 sec cable hot.
Now I have the ground and the neutral bonded together.
I cannot get my GFI's to work properly.
The only choice I have is to get a permit and rewire the connection from the meter can to the main.
It will require conduit and a lot of work, but I guess I am going to bite the bullet and get on with it.
Therefore it is my advice that bonded neutrals are not a good thing.
 
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yea I had the same thing on old construction here...
i ran new 4-4/0 all the way in.
and upgraded with the service disconnect at the meter...
who knows exactly how much that would to have ran via another contractor!!
i had several days in the upgrade.
conduit, wire and boxes i had over $1200.00 in just materials at cost.
but it is done right!
new ground stakes outside etc.
and now in case of fire the fire department can cut out the power on the outside at the meter with out tampering with the meter tag.
 

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Those were my thoughts, I am looking for the 200 amp breaker box.
However I was considering 3-0 Thhn copper.
At my age (79 today with sever back problems that the operation did not fix) boring the hole thru brick for a two inch pipe is going to be difficult.
I am thinking I will hire it done.
My licensed buddy's wife requires 24/7 care and he is not in a position to help me.
I am thinking;
Siemens W0202MB1200CU 200 Amp
on Amazon under 200 amp exterior breaker box.
 

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you need a core drill for the brick to do it right.
check with the rental shops in your area...
or even the home centers with tool rental.
they have them here at menards in my location.

use a cable winch or chain to support the drill weight if it is high up...
watch for kick back and make sure it is supported well for spin.

they use water for bit cooling...
so watch your cords and water if it is ac powered..

if you were closer i would drill it for you!

yea a core drill is a cool tool to have!
our little unit will go up to 6 inch.
most of the time we use the 3 and 4 inch for electrical and hvac.
diamond core drill bits and will drill 24 inches deep.
 
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