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Discussion Starter #21
Gen Tent?

 

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yea the gen tents are a cool idea!!
as long as you can mount them as intended.

zombie box idea is cool..
most are going for less than 40db of noise..

yea when building any of the gen huts make sure where they exhaust is going..
think the silent killer co! or carbon monoxide..
it is always a good idea to have a real good C/O detector when running any gen set.
it is just smart money spent!!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Got a decent amount done today. Got the ventilation system mounted and sealed up. I still need to figure out how I want to wire things and route cabling but atleast the intake shutter and exhaust fan are mounted.

The exhaust fan can really use a blade guard. I'll have to get some course wire mesh and do the blade guard and can't hurt to add it to the intake shutter. Don't want to suck in a squirrel. Did I mention that fan pulls a ton of air.

The last thing needed to make the setup fully operational is a heat shield for the back wall. I'm going to mount the galvanized panning sheets i have with a 1/4 air gap and see how i like it.

I've been looking at thermal and acoustic insulation options. The one I really liked to begin with has been out of stock for months. Its a 3/8" FOIL FACED RECYCLED COTTON. The 24' is nowhere to be found and then next size is 75' ! With 75' I guess I can double it to 3/4. Foil faced double bubble or foam wouldn't provide worthwhile sound deadening.

Any Suggestions for thermal and acoustic insulation??


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Plenty of room for a second EU7000. ;)
 

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hummm you may need a hood over the air intake?o_O
during operation when the air intake power vent is open if it is raining that large fan could suck in water and "s n o w" (sorry for the 4 letter swear word!!) :giggle:
then you could do a screen on the outside hood.

I use the foil faced pink foam stuff.
this stuff would be ok
or this in thicker
and the foil tape
the bubble stuff you would have to depend on glue to stick it to the wall...
and it will delaminate over time and fall down..
on the foam you can use liquid nails on the seams and edges and make a "cooler" out of the whole inside.
and or bolt it in..

I use the high mass of the filled and reinforced cinder block, and cinder block roof out of the same, then skin it with 6 inch studs and spray closed foam insulate the outside, shave it flush, and put on steel roofing material for the siding and roof.
and then spray bed liner material inside for a good seal on the block. then open it for the vents and the gas inlet and power out is through the floor dwv pvc poured concrete.

expensive but bad weather resistant large gen shed.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I hear ya on the intake hood. I have one in mind. I wanted to see how things came together before pulling the trigger. For my old enclosure I welded together a stainless hood. It was a simple lean-to shape with sides. I also lined it with MLV. In hindsight Materials + time... Probably gonna buy one this time around.
 

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you can always pull the gen out and run the fans and use a garden hose for rain simulation..
just to see if the fan can pull in water mist and droplets...
or make a lean too porch over hang the gen shed...

they have those rv vent covers that have a rear inlet you could face down for the air intake..
a bit of hardware cloth to keep the bugs out or even thin foam... as an dust filter
if it was in a dusty location...
mowing grass when the gen is running.. lol...
kinda like an ac unit running when mowing... sure corks up fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So i'm going to line the back wall of the enclosure in 30gauge galvanized panning sheet. I'm considering 3 mounting methods.

1. Screwed directly to the back wall with a layer of fiberglass insulation sandwiched in between.

2. Using thin furring strips horizontally to space the sheets 1/4" from the back wall. This way would provide an air gap to cool the metal.

3. Using the same 1/4" furring strips to provide some space but adding fiberglass insulation to the void and between the furring strips before mounting.

Would one method over another have a positive effect on acoustics?
 

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well....
hard question!!
yea the insulation would help on the deadening...
also pond spray foam works well.
if both surfaces were super clean.. no need for fasteners..
that is where the tricky part is on noise...
coupling with fasteners...
hollow spaces makes a place for resonance... kinda like a drum!
so heat is a thing, as well as the noise...
I like your idea on the hollow cavity …
but maybe just reflective foil... or foil board that is rated for high temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Got some more work done on the enclosure.The back wall is one giant 30ga steel heat shield. I went with an air gap in an attempt to reduce the surface temp of the metal. The sheer size of sheets act also as a large heat sink. The hottest part of the metal I've measured remained equal to the hottest air exiting the generator around the catalytic muffler.

I ditched exhaust extension and elbows in favor for the stock outlet flange. Its actually WAY quieter this way. I took an old baking sheet and spray painted it with some grey grill paint and mounted it to the large metal sheet with an air gap to take disburse the exhaust stream.

I found some very inexpensive foil faced foam firewall insulation on eBay to line some of the enclosure. Its about 3/8" think and has an adhesive back. I only lined the enclosure lid and front doors for now. It made a noticeable difference in noise outside of the enclosure. At this point the large openings from the intake and the exhaust louvers are the only real source of noise. The funny thing is on the exhaust side, The sound of the fan blades is more audible then the actual generator. So Yeah, its very quiet! I have enough to do the side walls, just not enough motivation at the moment.

As for cable management wires are routed along the walls mounted with rubber insulated steel straps. Its looking rather tidy. I also added a blade protector the the exhaust fan out of 1/8 galvanized hardware cloth. I ended up doing the same on the intake side to keep critters out.

I'm quite happy with how everything came together so far. I have additional plans but this is good for now.

Next up is installing a Microair soft start on my Rheem 3.5ton AC. I'll chime back in with measurements.

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Discussion Starter #33
hey dr did you see the stack style vents??
TRY THIS PAGE
Honestly, leaving the exhaust stock and using a deflector has proven to be the simplest and quietest option. From infront of the enclosure all you can hear is a gentle hum. From the intake vent side, engine noise is the most audible. From the exhaust fan side the sound of the fan blades is louder then the generator, lol.

I searched around the web for 20" fan blades with an S-configuration for reduced noise but struck out.
 
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