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Discussion Starter #1
So, after many years of faithful service my Champion 7000/9000 complete with custom assembled enclosure has a new home and i'm moving on to greener pastures.

I'll start with a quick overview of the old setup. In 2012 hurricane sandy hit New Jersey and I lost power for 5 days. I was able order a small generator last minute which got delivered hours before we lost power. Well, I was bit by the bug.
I researched like a mad man for months. I bought books on electrical and plumbing. Watched countless youtube videos, and consulted with customers and friends who are licensed professionals in the stated trades. I knew I wanted to run on natural gas since finding gasoline was a nightmare during Sandy. I learned that a gasoline engine running natural gas needed to be derated on power so I went big and got a 7000watt rated generator. For an enclosure I start with an inexpensive suncast plastic shed. I lined it with mass loaded vinyl sheets for sound deadening and 1/4 foil faced foam insulation to create a temperature neutral space. Next was intake and exhaust fans in a push pull configuration and an insulated exhaust system complete a large muffler. The generator got a snorkel trifuel kit from UScarb. This was my first foray into this depth of electrical and plumbing work and what I learned has been invaluable.

Here it is showing some age. The setup is now at my brother in laws house.

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Now the good part. I bought an Eu7000is. I'm still getting over the price tag, but cannot be more impressed. I have have big plans for this thing. I've been looking into a large 240v inverter gen for some time and there are some nice options out there. Northern Tool has a good looking Honda clone-ish looking 240v inverter gen rated for 6500w running for $2700 bucks. I almost pulled the trigger on this one until I decided to give UScarb a call to see if they have anything in the works for the Fuel Injected Eu7000. I was pleasantly surprised to hear that they do and it'll be out soon! Game On!

After looking up the internal dimensions of the quick easy plastic sheds available only one would fit the bill. The Suncast BMS4700. The darn thing is huge for a "small shed" lol. Its deep enough for the very long Eu7000 to face outward with the control panel facing the front doors. Sure it would fit in a smaller shed but The aesthetics of the control panel facing left or right instead of facing forward was not something I was comfortable with. The added benefit of the BMS4700 is its actually wide enough for 2 Eu7000's. :) Parallel power... I'm a long way from that though.

The UScarb kit was expensive but looks good. @iowagold gave us a nice preview of it. As he mentioned it is not a simple bolt on kit. and to be honest it lacks a lot of fit and finish. But if you are mechanically inclined, have a bit of imagination and time... its really good. It has a plug and play interface box that uses an on-off-on (Alt fuel - off - Gasoline) toggle switch mounted externally to disable the fuel pump and injector while keeping the GCU and inverter in the loop during operation. The electronics in the box are potted in black epoxy. How elaborate the electronics in that box is anyones guess. But they claim it's a big deal.

The KN zero gravity demand regulator is mounted on a included bracket, but the bracket kinda sucks and it wouldn't work with the enclosure I decided on. (adds too much depth to the machine) So I made my own mounting bracket to mount it in a better location. The feed hose from the load block to throttle body has to be really long to snake its way through the battery compartment to the "snorkel". Trifuel guys know this hose should be as short as possible. I was able to cut down the length to 23" (from 27"). Also the passage the hose has to pass through is super tight and full of sharp edges. I ended up increasing the size of the cavity larger with a round file and adding grommets to protect the hose. I used extra primer bulbs slipped over the hose, They are thin and extremely resilient to abrasion. The "box" gets tucked in behind the front panel but the switch gets mounted in a location of your own choosing. I chose to mount it in the battery access door.

I JUST finished my gas piping and loaded the generator into the shed. I'll try to update the thread with some pics tomorrow.

Next on my list is to install the intake shutter and exhaust fan which are on order. And work on heat shields. I'll do foil faced insulation after the fan.


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nice mount!! note the 45 deg off access so the diaphragm will not self pump during vibration!!
I would add a down pipe with cap on the up 90 deg...
water and trash catch before the demand regulator..
I would to have used brass fittings... they hold up better over time when sitting with no ng or lp on them..
make sure to use a rubber hose for vibration isolation..
are you going 3/4 id hose??
and what did you do on the exhaust weldment?? stick or mig on the welds?
stainless stick would work ok.. tricky weld for sure... thin to heavy is always tricky.

I made a hd plate flange for the exhaust to bolt up out of stainless for no rust..
I tig welded that.. all 16 of turned out nice..
I need to get the next batch laser cut.. I just used the plasma cutter with new tips..
and jig cut for almost perfect cut.
then stainless nipple to high temp silicone hose with air on the outside..
and has a vapor drain.

I did the exhaust as a stack up for no noise on the outside of the cinder block shed.
and removed the screen from the muffler. no need to service that screen every oil change.
if you are not doing a kidney oil system.
that is one of the over looked things on the eu gens!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
"nice mount!!" Thank you sir.

I installed a sediment trap right before the gas hose, figured that was enough. Might not be a bad idea to add another. I do plan to go to brass later on. I went with 3/4 black pipe feeding the enclosure and a 1/2 hose with quick disconnects. Every propane gas chart I reference shows that to be suitable. If I ever get a second Eu7000 I doubt id convert it to tri-fuel, but just incase, the 3/4 run should support two Eu7000s without a problem.

When I install a wireless remote start I'm going to add a normally closed solenoid valve right before the demand regulator and maybe a vacuum switch for added safety. I'll go brass at that point. UScarb has a reasonably priced kit. I don't technically need the vacuum switch since the generator has key on power, even with using the remote start. But it might be nice to use it as a fail safe to shut fuel flow to the demand regulator. The KN demand regulators are sprung closed when a vacuum isn't applied but id rather err on the side of caution.


I have a 6' rubber hose to the Gen, and a flex hose from the hose to the enclosure. I added a nylon overbraid to the gas hose as well. Fun Fact, WATTS makes a stainless steel flex hose that's outdoor rated. Its also a superseded generac part in place of the old rubber hose. I never like the idea of a rubber hose carrying gas right out in the open. I'm treating the enclose like a standby generator. Flex connection, min 5 feet from nearest window, min 18 inches from house...


The exhaust adapter is something I found on eBay. I could have made one but it was way easier to pay the $45 bucks for it in stainless. I'm not thrilled with 90degree bend, I'm thinking of doing a couple 45s to smooth it out but space is tight, I need to make sure their is adequate space between the front of the generator and the closed door. Im thinking a couple well placed baffles can optimize airflow if needed. Ill test all that once i get the fan and intake shutter installed. I don't plan to run the exhaust out of the shed. I just intend to aim it up toward the exhaust fan.

Im thinking of using the metal bracket under the exhaust pipe as a mount for a small heat shield. ( I repurposed the UScarb regulator mount, it was handy for something.)

What exactly is the kidney oil system you speak of? Sounds elaborate and expensive...lol.

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I guess I would to have shot the exhaust strait out the back to stainless double wall strait up in the air with a cap vent on top.
if you use the double wall all the way then the fan air pushes on the outside part for no freezing of condensate.
then have a t right outside the case with a duck bill water drain on the down part.

they make the rubber collar thru units that can pop rivet to the plastic for the stainless exhaust vent double wall.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I have a 1” trunk line that feeds my appliances. My Generator is on the first split.

4ft of 1”
10ft of 3/4” 30ft total including elbows
(4) 90 degree elbows add 5ft to 3/4 run for each elbow. Add 20ft

Im on propane so my capacity according to the chart is 315,000btu.

The charts notes 11” water column. My cheap monometer reads a bit over 9”.
So down grade the number approx 18%. 260,000btu.

GX390 ~12hp 10,000btu per HP. 120,000btu.

Technically I have enough capacity for 2 EU7000s in parallel.

I thought about running the exhaust externally but it’s way more work and would create more noise outside the enclosure.

I like this chart.

 

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Nice. Well researched. Are you planning on sound attenuation? Though that probably isn't needed. How about an ac driven exhaust fan, plugged into the engine so it operates anytime the engine is running?
Again, this looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Nice. Well researched. Are you planning on sound attenuation? Though that probably isn't needed. How about an ac driven exhaust fan, plugged into the engine so it operates anytime the engine is running?
Again, this looks great.
Thanks man.

Honestly the generator is so quiet that sound attenuation isn't a high priority.

I will have a 24" motorized intake shutter and 20" exhaust fan. They happened to have arrived today, much earlier than I expected. I imagined what a 24" intake shutter would look like on the enclosure, but wow, its pretty darn big.

I'm a little torn on managing the heat from the back of the generator. The machine is essentially an airtight box with air flowing through the front of the unit past the inverter then through the engine housing past the exhaust system (has a catalytic converter in the muffler...additional heat.) then out a rectangular exhaust vent the width of the enclosure near the top of the unit.

Bottom line its hot and I need to insulate the back wall with a heat shield in the cooling systems exhaust airstream.

Here's what I'm looking at. Its cheap, so I might line the whole interior of the enclosure. It'll help keep the space as temperature neutral as possible, with the added benefit of some sound attenuation. The class 1 fire rating makes me feel better as well.


Otherwise i'd add a piece of galvanized sheet metal spaced from the wall, or a piece of ceramic insulation. Ceramic refractory board or a foil faced ceramic fiber blanket.

Using my thermal imager I got a 160f degree reading off the back wall running No load for 20 minutes with eco throttle off. The whole wall heat soaked considerably as well. The big fan and intake will keep the space cool, but the target spot in the airstream will get very hot. Especially loaded up on a hot day.

I guess I could always do both.

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Discussion Starter #11
1/10 hp motor and three speeds. 4,220/3,250/2,130CFM

Missed it before. Just went back and saw the tech spec. OPERATING TEMPERATURE -20°c / 80°c 176 degrees F

Looks like its insufficient.
 

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humm 3 temp sensors and relays for the three speeds might be an idea..
a bit of logic in there for safety..
one company had a speed control that worked off temp...
for green house... it ramped up or slowed down the fan speed to keep it in a window of temp..
nice for cold temps on gens... they do not like the intake air temp below 70 degf..
in the venturi the temp drops down to 40 deg...
hard for natural gas to fire right at that temp...

hey did you change the spark plug gap to 0.020 inches and the plug to iridium??
the iridium works better for the lp and ng setup.
The link for honda eu 7000is tune up parts are below;
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the reminder on the spark plug, I meant to order an iridium replacement. I have an iridium on the old champion, and it cold started WAY better then copper on gaseous fuels. Propane is a bit more forgiving then Natural gas.

You brought this to my attention a while back.

Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Remote Monitoring Controlling Home Brewing Fermentation Breeding Incubation Greenhouse Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Remote Monitoring Controlling Home Brewing Fermentation Breeding Incubation Greenhouse: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I think this is promising, I can set it to a specific temp and monitor through WiFi with an app. Not sure if it would retain settings during an outage. until I can restore power. Might be silly if I need to run through a UPS.

A simpler thermostat ran right off the generator and a different monitoring system would be more practical.
 

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If I were to put my small 2800watt generator in a box, would it be cool enough just have a vent for the exhaust and maybe another for the back where it gets hot,, or do I need fans?
 

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If I were to put my small 2800watt generator in a box, would it be cool enough just have a vent for the exhaust and maybe another for the back where it gets hot,, or do I need fans?
If you put in an exhaust fan with the generator exhaust facing it and adequate inlet size for the air, the system will be self-cooling. I've done this twice now with a Powermate PM1500 (8 inch fan in a truck box) and a Powermate PM0126000 (16 inch fan in a Suncast BMS2500). My Onan KV 2800 has its own RV-ready enclosure with a built-in air pump on the intake side that performs a similar function.
 

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if you are running on lp or ng for fuel, low carbon on the exhaust..

I guess I always run an exhaust fan that is temp controlled..
but most of my units are in cold temps...
but we are in a real gen shack that is cinder block on those applications.
and have steel siding for rf shield and faraday cage as they are on transmitter sites..

the eu7000is sure do work better on the iridium plugs when on the alt fuels..
and the cool thing is when on ng or lp the plugs last a long time!!
they do not carbon up like on gasoline..
so the extra few bucks is not an issue..
here is the link for the eu7000is parts page with links
 

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If you put in an exhaust fan with the generator exhaust facing it and adequate inlet size for the air, the system will be self-cooling. I've done this twice now with a Powermate PM1500 (8 inch fan in a truck box) and a Powermate PM0126000 (16 inch fan in a Suncast BMS2500). My Onan KV 2800 has its own RV-ready enclosure with a built-in air pump on the intake side that performs a similar function.
Ah thanks, my idea originally was just having 2 air vents where the generator got hot, But yeah Im guessin it will cook and maybe set on fire without a fan sucking the hot air out
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Standard alternator generators have the engines air intake at the front of the motor at the pull cord, and the alternators is at the Opposite end. They exhaust their hot air pretty much in the middle.
It’s not simple to make an enclosure that will enshroud and separate the flow of air as required. Where the muffler is pointing is another thing to consider. If it points at the exhaust fan then perfect, if not a refractory board is necessary.

An intake vent and exhaust fan is simpler.
 

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Ah thanks, my idea originally was just having 2 air vents where the generator got hot, But yeah Im guessin it will cook and maybe set on fire without a fan sucking the hot air out
I have a friend with the same Powermate PM0126000 and Suncast BMS2500 shed, purchased at the same time as mine.
He elected to simply try running the generator in the shed (in bad weather) with the top down and both front doors open. The exhaust end of the generator was about 18" from the end of the shed; it burned quite a sizable hole in the end of the shed.
 

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Ummm. I would want the box quite compact, so only a few inches all the way around, a bad idea then? I could put wire mesh at the exhaust side instead of a vent... Id have the exhaust fan in front of the exhaust but its aiming towards my house door.

I guess its probably easier to screw a heavy duty water proof cover to the wall ubove the generator and let it hang over the front weighing it down on the floor with bricks. Then the generator should be protected from the rain/snow off when its in use..

Its a real pain stuck in a wheelchair because I would do a proper box jobby.
 
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