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First time poster.

I was wondering if anyone could suggest a synthetic oil for a 713cc generator v-twin engine.

Some say Mobil 1 but man are there a bunch to consider. Does it really matter?

Thanks everyone!
 

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First time poster.

I was wondering if anyone could suggest a synthetic oil for a 713cc generator v-twin engine.

Some say Mobil 1 but man are there a bunch to consider. Does it really matter?

Thanks everyone!
Your manual should state either a 10W30 or 10W40 grade. I use AMSOIL small engine oil, a full synthetic, that is made for severe duty use in all my small engines. Most folks forget to do regular maintenance and this oil has a considerable long protection margin should you forget to change it out regularly. Here is a link and if you can't find it locally delivery is usually a couple of days if you order on-line. Works for me and I've been an AMSOILuser for over 30 years. Dutchy
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/4-stroke/?zo=331384
 

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I did some research on motor oil some years ago. I looked at all the data I could find on wear rates in various tests, how they handle contaminants, etc. In a nutshell, any synthetic is better than any non-synthetic. Amsoil is the best, but it's also very expensive. At the time I did my research Mobil 1 was a close second, but they've since changed from the more expensive and better base stock to the less expensive type, so I expect they've lost that status.

Bottom line, I use whatever full synthetic is cheap. Mostly that means Walmart's Super Tech, Harvest King from the farm store, or NAPA or Mobil 1 when they're on sale.
 

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Yes I agree that AMSOIL isn't cheap, but the cost of only $10 and to get any other brand of synthetic oil might only be 2/3 dollars less. So for me it's worth it when you consider the Severe/Commercial duty that it is designed for. However, I'd like to argue that any synthetic oil is better than any petroleum based oil. Harley's 360 outperforms their Syn3 in most tests that I've seen... Dutchy
 

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It's pretty easy to get full synthetic oil for $3-$4/qt.
I have not seen full synthetic that cheap. Personally no more oil than my generator or lawn mower uses, i prefer to stick with one of the major brands, Mobil 1 Pennzoil, Valvoline. I also want something that I can find at an auto parts store, big box store, ect, and have not seen any Amisol on shelves anywhere. I am Leary of any wal mart brands as to quality, feeling that they are made for a pricing point for their increased profit and that only, I simply do not trust them.

Now I am using the same oil in my car as all the small 4 cycle equipment, and generally buy it in the 5 qt containers.
 

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I have not seen full synthetic that cheap.
NAPA occasionally puts theirs on sale for $3 or $3.50 in quart bottles.

Walmart's regular price on Super Tech full synthetic is less than $20/5qt jug.

Many farm stores will have Harvest King full synthetic for around $20 or less for a 5qt jug.

Once in a while I see Mobil 1 on sale for $20-$22 per 5qt jug.

I am Leary of any wal mart brands as to quality, feeling that they are made for a pricing point for their increased profit and that only, I simply do not trust them.
A good policy with a lot of Walmart's stuff, but oil has to at least meet the stated API spec. There's lots of info online about Super Tech oil, and also about the Harvest King. Both are very well respected.
 

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NAPA occasionally puts theirs on sale for $3 or $3.50 in quart bottles.

Walmart's regular price on Super Tech full synthetic is less than $20/5qt jug.

Many farm stores will have Harvest King full synthetic for around $20 or less for a 5qt jug.

Once in a while I see Mobil 1 on sale for $20-$22 per 5qt jug.

A good policy with a lot of Walmart's stuff, but oil has to at least meet the stated API spec. There's lots of info online about Super Tech oil, and also about the Harvest King. Both are very well respected.

That would be minimum spec. Actually on the bottles any brand only lists the spec too which it is made, ie the minimum. If it exceeds as many say some brands as Amisol does, it does not say so, or does not say how it exceeds. I expect there is no standard for exceeding spec.
 

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I just changed my oil to semi synthetic, having used non synthetic oil since the beginning of the year as its a new generator. I have put about 8-10hrs on the generator with the non synthetic oil and will probably go fully synthetic when i do the next oil change, in another 10-20 hours of use. Im hopeing breaking it in nice and slowly (I have only run it for 20min a month, with light loads so far), it will last a good few years without failing when I need it during powercuts and in cold conditions.

Hey guys going off topic here, but whats the lowest temp a 12v battery can operate in, as I have a key and cord start generator? but I cant pull the cord fast enough to start it.. Im lucky as the generator recharges the battery as it runs, so hopefully with the monthly runs I give the generator, it will keep the battery topped up.
 

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but whats the lowest temp a 12v battery can operate in
Batteries are rated in CCA (Cold-Cranking Amps). This is the amount of current a battery can deliver for 30 seconds at -18 C without dropping to a specified cut-off voltage. A fully charged lead-acid battery can survive down to –50 C, but a battery with a low state of charge can freeze at –1 C. When the water in a battery freezes it expands and can cause irreparable damage to the cells.
 

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My battery on the generator is only a small Lead Acid 12v 7ah.. I dont know if I can get a bigger or better one without buggering the starter motor?
You don't need a larger one if it's cranking the engine over OK. Recommend that you keep a battery maintainer on it if your monthly test-run regimen doesn't keep it healthy enough. A 12 volt battery will measure at about 12.9 volts when it’s fully charged and about 11.4 volts when it is fully discharged. That’s a total of 1.5 volts that represents the full range of charge on a 12 volt battery. Your generator probably initially charges it at 14+ volts, and then a typical battery maintainer will keep it in the 13-14 volt range.
 

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You don't need a larger one if it's cranking the engine over OK. Recommend that you keep a battery maintainer on it if your monthly test-run regimen doesn't keep it healthy enough. A 12 volt battery will measure at about 12.9 volts when it’s fully charged and about 11.4 volts when it is fully discharged. That’s a total of 1.5 volts that represents the full range of charge on a 12 volt battery. Your generator probably initially charges it at 14+ volts, and then a typical battery maintainer will keep it in the 13-14 volt range.

thank you very much, I have just been browsing though the battery maintainer's online and they might do the trick during the winter months if the battery isnt great in the cold.. Im guessing I can leave the battery maintainer connected when running the generator? if so I will somehow sorted so its permanently attached to the battery and the mains.

I can see me having a powercut on a cold winters day and nothing happens when I turn the key........ I am hoping the charging of the battery when doing my monthly runs of the generator will be enough to keep the battery good enough during the winter months and wont let me down on a freezing day when I need the generator for real.... But yes I dont think the generator will want to start easy when its freezing or below, as it takes a few more seconds then normal if I leave the generator standing longer than a month without running it... I would of thought with all the fussing I do over my generator, (as I have never owned something with a engine, as Im in a wheelchair) I thought it would start first touch every time.

If I have problems I might also try buying a battery, as Im guessing generators come with real cheap batteries?
 

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FWIW a lot of folks around here have Generac whole house units and for whatever reason, the batteries often seem to fail when needed. Add to that the ones I'm familiar with don't charge when the genset is running, but from utility supplied 120V coming in from the house. In an outage scenario, the 120V coming from the house isn't energized by the genset-guessing that's what is used to determine power loss to start and stop the unit? In an extended outage most folks don't run them 24/7, but shut down to check/change oil, etc. Those small batteries only have one or two starts without recharging. The routine is to have jumper cables and your riding lawn mower available. Suppose you could carry the battery to your vehicle and charge it using jumper cables. During one extended outage my neighbor ran an extension cord back from the house and powered a battery charger to top off the genset battery.

The preceding is in no way a criticism of Generac, just what I've observed with units 8-10 years old. That was when we had an "inland hurricane" and power was out for 12 days-lots of folks installed whole house Generac's after that. No idea if Generac has addressed this in newer units.
 

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Here's some of the technical numbers for AMSOIL 10W30 Small Engine Oil. The fire point is incredible as is the pour point. Also the TBN number is higher than most which helps to give this oil a long drain interval because it can fight acidity so well. How does your favourite oil compare? So to me the oil brand does matter for my toys etc. Dutchy



TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL Synthetic Small-Engine Oil 10W30
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.3

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D445) 66.8

Viscosity Index (ASTM D2270) 141
CCS Viscosity, cP (ASTM D5293) 5968
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D97) -40C (-40F)
Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D92) 246 (475)
Fire Point °C (°F) (ASTM D92) 264C (507F)
Four-Ball Wear Test (ASTM D4172B @ 40 kg, 75°C, 1200 rpm, 1 hr), Scar, mm 0.45
NOACK Volatility, % weight loss (ASTM D5800) 4.0
High-Temperature/High-Shear Viscosity (ASTM D4683 @ 150°C, 1.0 X 106 s.-1), cP 3.3
Total Base Number 8.5
 

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You guys mite like this Guy he did a Test on Synthetic oils lots of great info. hope the link works.

"https://youtu.be/TWuKvnCq1js"]https://youtu.be/TWuKvnCq1js[/URL]
 
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