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Should I be wrorried about the rusty exhaust pipe..

3260 Views 198 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  OrlyP
2
I have just noticed this but Im not sure why its so rusty as the actual exhaust isn't very rusty at all. Im thinkinng the rusty pipe will break before long?
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and the "extension lead"
Get the one @George606 posted above in #139 or one of the ones below (go for whatever is the best price). They're universal...
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Get the one @George606 posted above in #139 or one of the ones below (go for whatever is the best price). They're universal...
This will be the cable I will be buying if I get a optimate as its half the price of the ones on amazon, so thanks for the link(y)

Ive just given the gen a good 30min run with a 500watt load(stress testing my pc) and the starter was fine , it didnt fail at all, engine started in about 1sec.. So Im thinking it must of been battery issues before when the starter kept on failing... Its odd because the gen normally keeps the battery charged up, plus the starter doesnt normal have to work for long to start the engine (2-3secs if engine hasnt been started within a month), so its not really pulling much from the battery.
👆 That should work okay with either the OptiMate extension leads or just some cable.

Just FYI, this set is the same price as the OptiMate leads, but is longer...
Thanks everyone for helping me these last few weeks, l couldn't of done it without you guys.. Hopefully gen will be good for another 3-4yrs or longer(y)(y)
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I took another battery reading today and its still says 13.17v, plus I started up the gen a few days ago for a 30min run aswel.

My sister put a little more oil on those rusty nuts and she said that isnt all rust, as metal changes colour at high temperatures, is that correct?
Ummm, just done a bit of googling........

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My sister put a little more oil on those rusty nuts and she said that isnt all rust, as metal changes colour at high temperatures, is that correct?
It is rust...plain and simple rust from being exposed to the elements. The exhaust heat makes those components more susceptible to rusting because the factory coating (if any) has been burned off. Putting a little oil on the rusting/rusted areas will slow the oxidation process down. Of course, the oil would need to be reapplied after each run because it will burn off.

The chart you are showing above is referencing the color changes of steel while it is at those temperatures. You are looking at those areas at a much lower temperature (about 21 C).
Is there anythng else than oil that would last without having to re apply it all the time?
Is there anythng else than oil that would last without having to re apply it all the time?
Exhaust paint like I said in post #3
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Thanks, I will get some in the next few months. I automatically thought the oil would last quite a while, so today I got my sis to put more oil on as my attempt wasn't great, thinking it will last a year or longer before needed doing again, but I got that wrong.. So exhaust paint will stop the exhaust from breaking off or getting holes in it due to rust and wont need to keep reapplying it?
So exhaust paint will stop the exhaust from breaking off or getting holes in it due to rust and wont need to keep reapplying it?
Some people paint the headers on their cars or other equipment just for looks. Others paint headers for protection such as in this case. Done properly, exhaust header paint will prevent rust for some time...in many cases years. It makes a big difference as to the quality of the paint and the surface preparation. With some paints you have to get all the existing rust off by scraping, sanding, or wire brushing. Other paints will have a rust neutralizer in them and you don't have to work too much to prepare the surface. You can also apply rust neutralizer separately before painting.

The problem with these cheap generators is that the manufacturers save a little on each unit going out the door by applying a thin coat of cheap paint. The headers and mufflers are first to rust because that cheap paint burns off. Of course being outside doesn't help either. Most all of the steel parts on the gen will eventually rust as the paint deteriorates. Storing a generator outside means that more preventative maintenance will need to be done than one stored inside out of the elements.
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Oh, check out YouTube for videos.
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So exhaust paint will stop the exhaust from breaking off or getting holes in it due to rust
That exhaust is unlikely to break off or get holed any time soon, assuming that it is a steel casting. The surface oxidation is actually protective, just like on some light poles and other steel structures. Last summer, I removed the exhaust from my 1987 Honda GX240. I cut off the pipe and then removed the rusty nuts from the engine studs with a cold chisel after spraying them with penetrating oil. Note the uniform thickness of the pipe and the lack of deterioration. The last picture below shows the new pipe installed (unpainted) with new flange nuts on the original studs before the new muffler was installed.
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I'm with Genknot... A coat or two of say, Rustoleum High Heat paint should save the exhaust, assuming there's still some good meat left in it. However, the surface prep is as important as proper application and curing of the paint or that coat wouldn't last.

As for the exhaust hex nuts, you can replace them with brass nuts. These are commonly being used on headers as they don't rust and is softer than the metal studs (won't strip it). Apply some hi-temp anti-seize compound and it shouldn't give you headaches down the road.
That exhaust is unlikely to break off or get holed any time soon, assuming that it is a steel casting. The surface oxidation is actually protective, just like on some light poles and other steel structures. Last summer, I removed the exhaust from my 1987 Honda GX240. I cut off the pipe and then removed the rusty nuts from the engine studs with a cold chisel after spraying them with penetrating oil. Note the uniform thickness of the pipe and the lack of deterioration. The last picture below shows the new pipe installed (unpainted) with new flange nuts on the original studs before the new muffler was installed.
This is the replacement part,, quite expensive if it ever should break, but if its thick steel it will last. But Im guessing its quite a rubbish exhaust with being a cheap generator unless its the same quality as this replacement part.
quite expensive if it ever should break
Likely available much cheaper than that...
exhaust from my 1987 Honda GX240
If only they made them as good as 1987 again. Ah, those were the days!

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Ive had a word with a mate of mine and he says it needs rust curing and then painting, but after looking at it, he says it only needs painting as it wasn't as bad as he thought. So he's going do that for me soon and paint all the exhaust, not just the where it fixes to the engine.(y)
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Hi,, now were thinking about removing the whole exhaust as it will be easier to paint, if the nuts will undo.. He says that it will probably need re sealing(cant remember the words he used, something todo with the gasket I think?) when putting it back on because it might blow if just bolted back on to the engine? hopefully this will be done this weekend
All done. My mate took the exhaust off, amazingly those nasty rusty nuts undid really easy, and the gasket didnt need resealing or anything as the exshaust removed cleanly and easy from the gasket

I had to start the generator to heat up the exhaust to cure the paint and my mate was impressed how smooth, quiet and clean the engine ran:cool:

The battery wouldnt turn over the engine again though, as it turned it over the engine a fraction every turn of the key, the engine started after a few turns of key to start. I thought a engine had to turn over fast and at least 1-2 turnovers for it to fire into life,,not quarter of a turn if that?

I might see if I can return the battery for a replacement as its only about 6moths old and tomorrow I'll check the voltage again.
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