Should I be wrorried about the rusty exhaust pipe..

3265 Views 198 Replies 10 Participants Last post by OrlyP, 1 h ago

speedy2019

Discussion Starter · 1 mo ago (Edited)

2

I have just noticed this but Im not sure why its so rusty as the actual exhaust isn't very rusty at all. Im thinkinng the rusty pipe will break before long?

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speedy2019

Discussion Starter · #101 · 1 mo ago

GenKnot said:
You stated that the battery voltage reads 13.68V. Is that with the charger on it, or after the charger is removed?

That was with the charger removed.

And Ive just managed to try it as its stopped rain but I have no idea, because now it starts up instantly before the starter cuts out, even with the choke off and before it wouldnt start even when warm with the choke off,, so thats a big improvement hey...

So I will leave it for a few days and then try again, because the starter should have to work more then a fraction of a second to start it by then..lol.. I could turn off the fuel but I dont like doing that as it shake and jumps around badly..lol

OrlyP

· #102 · 1 mo ago

If the battery is truly fully-charged and healthy, I’d also check that all high-current wire connectors and lugs are corrosion-free and tight. The solenoid is also suspect as it is a common failure point.

With the amount of current the starter is drawing, any imperfect connection will result in a voltage drop.

Hope you’re able to sort it out.

Colt Carson

· #103 · 1 mo ago

Many years ago when I was a young man I had a truck that wouldn’t start. I had just opened the hood and was trying to figure out what might be the problem when my Dad walked up. He suggested cleaning the battery terminals. There was no visible corrosion… "they look fine" I said. We bickered about it, and finally I told Dad that I would clean the battery posts/clamps, even though they were perfectly clean. Afterwards, the truck started up no problem. Lesson learned.

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OrlyP

· #104 · 1 mo ago

^ Very similar childhood. Back then, I didn't knew any better. I know well enough that 12V won't kill me... but 220V AC makes my life flash before my eyes. But I'm a quick learner. lol

I had no concept of electrical current until I was well into my teens, which was about the time I began to have this great appreciation for electronics.... and cars. I see mechanics gently tap on the battery terminals with a hammer to make the car start. Other times, they tap on the starter solenoid to free it up.

Reactions: 1

speedy2019

Discussion Starter · #105 · 1 mo ago

I really hope its not a wire problem or more serious, I've have had this prob for years, where sometimes the first turn of the key the starter would try to go but then stop, but always went and kept going on the 2nd turn of the key. Then about 6 months it was failing all the time, but a new battery sorted that out. But now its acting like the battery is dead again..
A few months ago the starter fired up and kept going for about 4-5secs on the first turn of the key until gen started up when it was -10c, so surely there can't be much wrong with it...?

sledman8002002

· #106 · 1 mo ago

speedy2019 said:
now it starts up instantly before the starter cuts out, even with the choke off and before it wouldnt start even when warm with the choke off,, so thats a big improvement hey...

speedy2019 said:
A few months ago the starter fired up and kept going for about 4-5secs on the first turn of the key until gen started up when it was -10c, so surely there can't be much wrong with it...?

OK, I totally mis-understood your first post about this issue. Do you have a multi meter Speedy? I'm curious to know/be sure if the gen is sending a charge to the battery once it's running to keep the battery full.
With the new NGK I think you should find quicker and easier starts from here on, the brand of your original plug is not the best in providing a consistant and strong spark.

sledman8002002

· #107 · 1 mo ago

GenKnot said:
Sorry Sled, but I would have to disagree with the WD-40 suggestion

No worries GK, we cant all agree on everything. One reason why a forum such as this is so popular. Myself, I prefer to use fogging oil in such an instance. We each have our preferences. 👍

I mentioned WD as most everyone has a spray can on the shelf and thought Speedy jusat might also. Its better than nothing in my view 'if' the issue was possible corrosion inside the switch itself. As mentioned above I mis-understood the issue.

sledman8002002

· #108 · 1 mo ago

speedy2019 said:
I really hope its not a wire problem or more serious, I've have had this prob for years,

For your sake I hope it's not either. If possible do a couple of cold starts for next few days, the recent maintenace along with a fully charged battery may well be all it needed.

speedy2019 said:
I could turn off the fuel but I dont like doing that as it shake and jumps around badly..lol

Do you mean the surging just before it runs out of fuel and shuts down? If so, at the very first sign of it surging, kill it. Or even just a bit beforehand.

speedy2019

Discussion Starter · #109 · 1 mo ago

sledman8002002 said:
OK, I totally mis-understood your first post about this issue. Do you have a multi meter Speedy? I'm curious to know/be sure if the gen is sending a charge to the battery once it's running to keep the battery full.
With the new NGK I think you should find quicker and easier starts from here on, the brand of your original plug is not the best in providing a consistant and strong spark.

It normally starts within 2 seconds when left sitting for a month, so it might start quicker now with the new plug..

I had my last battery for 3yrs and didnt manually charge it up once, so yes the gen charges the battery while its running

Reactions: 1

speedy2019

Discussion Starter · #110 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

sledman8002002 said:
For your sake I hope it's not either. If possible do a couple of cold starts for next few days, the recent maintenace along with a fully charged battery may well be all it needed.

Do you mean the surging just before it runs out of fuel and shuts down? If so, at the very first sign of it surging, kill it. Or even just a bit beforehand.

But if I wanted the engine not to start so to test out the starter, I would have to leave it running till it died and then it wouldn't be able to start, so then I could test the starter.. but atm the engine starts to quick to tell if the starter is still cuting out.

sledman8002002

· #111 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

Or you could remove the spark plug cap. When doing so I would put the old plug into the spark plug cap when testing, just let it hang there, it wont hurt anything as long as its away from any open fuel container.
Just to add...Keep the NGK spark plug installed for compression resistance on the starter

speedy2019

Discussion Starter · #112 · 1 mo ago

sledman8002002 said:
Or you could remove the spark plug cap. When doing so I would put the old plug into the spark plug cap when testing, just let it hang there, it wont hurt anything as long as its away from any open fuel container.
Just to add...Keep the NGK spark plug installed for compression resistance on the starter

The thing with that the boot has all been greese and my sister has done it for me as I cant put the boot back on myself without touching the spark plug terminal touching the sides and getting greased up, because my hands are not all that steady.. my dam body is pigging useless, if only if I had a useless brain to match hehe, Its soo fustrating when you have to rely on others,

.

So I will just wait a few days then hopefully generator will take longer to start.

Reactions: 1

sledman8002002

· #113 · 1 mo ago

OK, understood Speedy.

OrlyP

· #114 · 1 mo ago

If and when the starter starts to cut out again, try to observe if you can hear a "click" from the solenoid when you turn the key. That might tell us where the problem is; the key switch or the solenoid.

Under the circumstances, you might also want to consider just having it fixed professionally. I'm sure there are local small engine mechs out there.

GenKnot

· #115 · 1 mo ago

speedy2019 said:
The thing with that the boot has all been greese and my sister has done it for me as I cant put the boot back on myself without touching the spark plug terminal touching the sides and getting greased up

Yes, putting the silicone inside the boot makes it difficult to install the boot (given the tight location on these gens) without getting it on the terminal. That's why I stated in post #75 to put the silicone on the ceramic insulator. Easiest done after the plug is installed with a Q-tip because the spark plug socket may wipe it off. If the silicone is on the ceramic insulator, it transfers to the boot as you slide the boot over the plug. I really don't think that the silicone on the terminal is a big deal though, as I have seen them work just fine with silicone on them...it is just "better" to not have it on the terminal.

GenKnot said:
Be sure to put silicone dielectric grease on the new plug's ceramic insulator to help keep water out of the boot.

It is important in your case to have the silicone on the plug because you store the gen outside in the weather.

Also, remember to put the cylinder on the compression stroke (to shut the valves) using the pull rope to close off the cylinder from moisture when you are done using it.

Reactions: 1

speedy2019

Discussion Starter · #116 · 1 mo ago

OrlyP said:
If and when the starter starts to cut out again, try to observe if you can hear a "click" from the solenoid when you turn the key. That might tell us where the problem is; the key switch or the solenoid.

Under the circumstances, you might also want to consider just having it fixed professionally. I'm sure there are local small engine mechs out there.

the starter does turn over the engine slightly when it fails, theres no clicking. it just stops

Dutchy491

· #117 · 1 mo ago

Speedy, If after sitting dormant for a day or two and the battery voltage is below 12.6v your battery is weak. My suggestion is leave the charger on it 24/7 to prolong the battery life. You will need to replace it sooner than later though. However, If you want to see how good the starter/battery is just try to start the generator cold, but without the choke on….should crank lots if all good. 😉

GenKnot

· #118 · 1 mo ago

@speedy2019 Did you ever get a battery tender. I know at one time you were looking into it, but I don't recall that you got one.

Reactions: 1

speedy2019

Discussion Starter · #119 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

Dutchy491 said:
Speedy, If after sitting dormant for a day or two and the battery voltage is below 12.6v your battery is weak. My suggestion is leave the charger on it 24/7 to prolong the battery life. You will need to replace it sooner than later though. However, If you want to see how good the starter/battery is just try to start the generator cold, but without the choke on….should crank lots if all good. 😉

Well Ive done what you suggested, and tested the starter with choke off, and the first turn of the key it failed like it sometimes does anyway, but for there on after it was fine. I tried it about 5 more times, held the key for 3-5 secs each time and it didnt fail once.. So I dont know what all that was about yesterday?

GenKnot said:
@speedy2019 Did you ever get a battery tender. I know at one time you were looking into it, but I don't recall that you got one.

Yes I was thinking about it but I never did as the original battery that came with the generator was brilliant as I never had any problems with it starting at all and never had to charge it once manually either in 3 and a bit years. But Ive noticed with this battery, it fails with the first turn of the key more often then the old battery did.... So Im thinking to manually charge this battery every few months or so.. I still might get a battery tender, but the battery is quite easy for me to remove and charge manually, so that's what I might start and do from now on.

Colt Carson

· #120 · 1 mo ago

From what I’ve read… lithium batteries don’t like to be stored at 100% charge, but lead acid batteries do like to be fully charged or near fully charged. I’m not sure about the numbers for an AGM battery (which are slightly higher), but a traditional wet lead acid car battery likes to be above approximately 12.4 volts. It can easily operate below that voltage, but the lifespan of the battery may be shorter. So while the generator battery may not go dead with the periodic test runs, it could be spending most of it’s time below it’s desired voltage (charge level). Since I’m a little concerned about a fire under a tank of gasoline in my attached garage, I don’t leave my generator battery on the small 1 amp charger I have. I run my generator around the first of each month. Around the middle of the month I fully charge the battery. So the battery is getting charged every two weeks, once without having to start the generator. I’m not saying this is the problem, just offering some info for maximum battery performance/life. If I’m off-track with my information, please offer correction.

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