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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I am in the process of getting my house setup for a generator. I am going to start out with something in the area of a 10Kw - 12Kw portable. I am thinking I would like to get a service entrance manual transfer switch for 200AMP. So I can have the utility power and the generator both connected to this switch, and then from the switch to my existing electric panel. Obviously no utility going direct into the electric service panel anymore. So the whole house would be powered from the transfer switch and I don't have to worry about back-feeding the utility. I would wire up an inlet box on the outside of the house that feeds into the transfer switch for the generator. My entire house won't get close to the 10Kw use, so I am not worried about that. Some questions if you don't mind...

1) Is my basic plan sound or bad idea?
2) I am having a real hard time finding an SE Manual 200AMP manual Transfer switch. I think I want something like this:


But HD doesn't actually have them, and I can't find anything similar online?

3) I am thinking at some point I may want to get a whole house standby, if that is the case, should I get an ATS for future purposes instead of manual, but just operate it for now in "manual" mode while I have the portable generator? Are there ATS that you can put into "manual" mode? Not sure if I would ever actually get the whole house standby so I am thinking the cost difference of ATS vs. manual may not be worth it? I can always stay with manual even if I get a whole house standby, right?

I really appreciate any insight to this!
 

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You should carefully consider how much power you really need during an outage, and balance that against the fuel consumption/cost and runtime. I do my whole house with a 6000/7500W generator through a GenerLink meter-mounted transfer switch and that's plenty, since I have an oil furnace for heat and primary hot water. The GenerLink only takes 15 minutes to install; check whether your utility is on board with them. A 10KW continuous generator is about the top end for them.
www.generlink.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You should carefully consider how much power you really need during an outage, and balance that against the fuel consumption/cost and runtime. I do my whole house with a 6000/7500W generator through a GenerLink meter-mounted transfer switch and that's plenty, since I have an oil furnace for heat and primary hot water.
www.generlink.com
Like I said... the one thing I am not worried about the power issue... any advice about what I asked?
 

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As I mentioned, the GenerLink is the easiest semi-automatic transfer switch I found (it switches when it sees generator power), and you can take it with you if you move, or sell it if you move up to a whole house standby with an integrated automatic transfer switch. They come as 200/30A or 200/40A units, and I have the larger one with built in surge suppression. You can buy them direct or through Home Depot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As I mentioned, the GenerLink is the easiest semi-automatic transfer switch I found (it switches when it sees generator power), and you can take it with you if you move, or sell it if you move up to a whole house standby with an integrated automatic transfer switch. They come as 200/30A or 200/40A units, and I have the larger one with built in surge suppression. You can buy them direct or through Home Depot.
Any links? I can’t find anything from generlink that is what I’m talking about. Would appreciate links!
 

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If you have room in your panel, I would just go with an interlock and a breaker for your generator. It does the same thing and should be cheaper. Put the generator input box where you want it, run a line to the new breaker, mount the interlock device and you're done. Powers the whole house just the same. This is what I did and it works great!

Example installation video:
 

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You want a 200A TS for 30A? Go with generlink or disconnect switch and save yourself a lot of money for something you'll never use. Down the road if you decide on a whole house unit, the 200A disconnect would be redundant and in the way. Your money.
 

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dan
so are you thinking you want it to switch over when you are not at home?
that is the only reason i would do an ats....
if you are out of town or state for your job... where there is low chance of getting home to switch over..
then yes on an ats unit... and a load management plan as well.

just do an interlock system... lower cost... and they work well..
you can do that on a primary disconnect just off the meter or on your
main breaker panel..

or do the 40 amp version of the generlink with the surge protection.
 
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