sorry i'm no help i just buy oregon chains off the shelf
Me also, sorry! If you like the one that came on it, then get a Stile chain just like it. The Dealer should know which one that is.sorry i'm no help i just buy oregon chains off the shelf
Thanks Ironmower. The chain sharpening kit I bought (Oregon) came with a round file and a flat file as well as a flat device that you lay across the teeth with a low spot to file down the "cutters". Is this the "drags" you mentioned? The flat file doesn't seem to file very much off, so I've just been tweaking the sharp part with the round file. Maybe that's part of my problem.You might need to file the "drags" down alittle. After you file the teeth, you should check your drag clearance. You can do this by laying a "straight edge" of some sort across the top of the cutters. Then, using a set of fealer gauges to check the gap. These drags is what determines how much the tooth bites. You should be around .020. I use my chains right down to where there's hardly anythin left, and they cut just as good if not better than a brand new chain. Mainly cuz, there's less dragging through the kerf.
Buying new chain can be alittle overwhelming sometimes.
First; you need to know what size you saw requires. On your saw this should be stamped in the bar. it will give you the pitch( .325, 3/8, 3/8 lp 1/4, and .404 ) and gauge ( .043, .050, .058, .063) (this will likely be stated in metric thou.) It will also give you the drive link count.
Second; You'll want to decide what style cutter, chisel, semi-chisel, safety, ect. The safety chains won't cut as fast as a chisel, but you have a better chance of "kick back". The safety has link that as it rolls of the bar tip, it keeps the teeth from cuttin at that point.
Hope this helps some.