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Discussion Starter #21
that is where you can use the meter set up!
when you are on grid...
have everything on that you will be using.
trip the breakers one at a time to find out exactly what breaker has what load on it.
and take notes!!
that is where the blue tape comes in handy if you are doing this by your self!

i use red and black vinyl electrical tape to mark L1 as black and L2 as red on the breakers.
real time numbers work the best!

if it turns out that the box is not balanced out.
swap out the breakers to get it balanced.
that is just moving out adjacent breakers with each other.
get them as even as you can.

for testing the microwave use a large bowl of ice water for a load.
leave room for a toaster or other appliance for cooking like a steamer or deep fryer..
or even a george forman grill. coffee pot etc.
I mark on the bottom of the items with a sharpie what the load is.
and for small 125 vac items use a killa watt meter
click here for the generator test equipment page the killa watt meter is on this page

start on those items for a list now.
and make sure those numbers get on the color coded work sheet.

question for you;
when was the house in question last wired?
what year? and when was the house built?
how well is it insulated?
House was built in 2020. Last wiring was in 2019 when basement was finished. When you say how well insulated how do I find that?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
 

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The following model has been used once and is on sale on craigslist. How is this to purchase?


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The generator looks to be in nice shape. But it is a discontinued model. I don't know how old. But to give you an idea, I bought mine May 2018 and it's still a current model. I also think the price is a bit high. Mine is a dual fuel with the same starting and running watts as that one. I got it new for $750 at Tractor Supply. It goes for $799 the last time I checked.

I would also go for a dual fuel generator. I have only run mine on propane so far. It doesn't mean I won't ever use gas, I have 4 - 5 gallon cans. But in the mean time I'm not worried about gumming up the carb, etc. I also have 4 - 40 lbs tanks and 4 - 20 lb tanks of propane that I don't have to worry about going bad like gas does.
 

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I have a PowerMate 6000/7500 on a 60' 8 gauge cable through a GenerLink. Today, for example, it ran the whole house. Every breaker was on (added one-by-one) except:
  1. 50A 240V Range Breaker
  2. 30A 240V Dryer
Even with my mother-in-law running her toaster and microwave, a 55" LCD and a 43" LED TVs, oil furnace, water heater, several computers, bathroom fans, fridge, chest freezer, lots of lights, etc., it didn't come close to 6,000 watts. Didn't run any A/C units today since it was only 51F, but have in the past.
are you still out tab?
 

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cool!
glad you are back up tab!
darn storms are real bad this year!
looks like central america got it again!
not sure where it is going next...
may loop back up to florida again like the last one?
 

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cool!
glad you are back up tab!
darn storms are real bad this year!
looks like central america got it again!
not sure where it is going next...
may loop back up to florida again like the last one?
The last forecast I saw, showed it crossing central American and heading out into the pacific.
 

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One thing to consider...

A big Gen is always good, however, the bigger the Gen the more fuel they burn. Therefore, find a balance in fuel comsumption and power.

In an emergency situation, most fuel stations are overwhelmed with costumers, inoperative and/or out of fuel. Consider what items are the most important, like a fridge. A good fridge can stay cold for about 24hrs as long the doors are not constantly opening. Might get away with an 8hr or less run, get what you need and turn off the fridge.

****, if fuel/maintenance is not a concern, I would get a 30KW Diesel and call it a day.

The best way is connect the gen to the house. No need for extension cords and use all the comfort critters (lights, TV, Internet Router, washing machine, furnace, etc...). I wired mine that using a 50A RV docking cable and surge protector and a main shut off to avoid backfeed to the powerlines. All I have to do is watch my power comsumption.

Items to watch for, Coffee Makers, Microwave Ovens, AC (compressors are power hungry), electric ovens/hot plates, washing machines and..... dryers (electric). If you can, hang dry
 

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One thing to consider...

A big Gen is always good, however, the bigger the Gen the more fuel they burn. Therefore, find a balance in fuel comsumption and power.

In an emergency situation, most fuel stations are overwhelmed with costumers, inoperative and/or out of fuel. Consider what items are the most important, like a fridge. A good fridge can stay cold for about 24hrs as long the doors are not constantly opening. Might get away with an 8hr or less run, get what you need and turn off the fridge.

****, if fuel/maintenance is not a concern, I would get a 30KW Diesel and call it a day.

The best way is connect the gen to the house. No need for extension cords and use all the comfort critters (lights, TV, Internet Router, washing machine, furnace, etc...). I wired mine that using a 50A RV docking cable and surge protector and a main shut off to avoid backfeed to the powerlines. All I have to do is watch my power comsumption.

Items to watch for, Coffee Makers, Microwave Ovens, AC (compressors are power hungry), electric ovens/hot plates, washing machines and..... dryers (electric). If you can, hang dry
That's pretty much what I have done.except 11Kw Honda. Use the 50 amp output from it to a 50 amp inlet going into a 200amp double throw disconnect. We are all electric so watch power consumption, turn off hot water heater and everything seems ok. Do not use electric dryer. My wife prefers a clothes line anyway for most things. The first couple of years we were married, I was stationed in Turkey courtesy of the USAF,supporting a major NATO headquarters at Izmir. Everyone lived downtown in apartments and had only clothes lines for drying clothes and she got used to that and preferring line dried sheets to those out of a clothes dryer. When we had our house built in a rather nice area she insisted on a clothes line, we are the only ones in the neighborhood using one.

The amount of fuel I keep varies by season. I have been surprised when a small tornado crossed about a quarter of a mile from us and took out power lines for about 20 miles going right along the highway. I normally keep about 60 gal of stabilized gas in my shed, running a big part of it through my mower during the summer and fall, replacing it before we start getting to the couple of months where the rare ice/snow storms are possible.
The way the house is built, driveways, electric utility input, prevents me from installing a permanent generator and fuel supply. It would all have to be sitting in the front yard and just would not look good. If I could build again I would have things planned and laid out for a permanent installation, probably a small powerhouse to enclose the generator for noise control and security, and would seriously consider diesel. I would have to do some research on how well diesel holds up to long term storage though.
 

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My Gen is Tri-Fuel, got it connected to my NG line and bought 2 one hundred pounders of propane. Used RV auto selector switches. I figure that I can run 1.8 Day constant at about 2500 W, streach that by running 12 hr or so at the times. The NG is the main fuel, LPG for back up and Gasoline as the very last backup fuel. Also is a portable Gen in case that I have to leave. No permanent install.

What I learned with LPG. You want the tank big enough for you to move around. You can get 500 pounders, but will require a tanker truck to refill and equipment to move it around. In an emergency it might not be available (tanker truck), so you might have to take the tanks with you. Empty (100 lbs) tanks are light enough for a person to lift. Full, a 2 men job tops to unload from a pickup truck.

Diesel Fuel... is the best fuel. Huge long term storage, way better than gasoline by far. Gases does not have the same BTUs but can be indef on storage. The worse fuel is Gasoline, shelf-life sucks.
 

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just watch the storage and where you purchase the diesel fuel from.
make sure it is 100% dino grade diesel and not bio diesel blend...
and use the fuel stabilizers for the diesel as well.
watch the storage and main fuel tank vents... they need an air lock on them so the tank does not get moist air in them.
take a lesson from wine making on those!
click here for the diesel fuel additive page
also make sure to run multi large water separators...
this helps with the fuel id of the bio diesel bug as well as keeps the trash out of the injectors..

that bio diesel bug can start to spoil injectors in less than 12 hours of sitting!!
let along if the engine is running!!
at 200.00 to1200.00 each on injectors... that can be a disaster!
and it takes a bit longer to trash an injector pump..
sitting maybe a week at the min to 4 to 6 months is sitting.
and if it is running???
damage is just the same if there was no oil in an car engine...
20 min to an hour to total melt down...

that bio diesel bug looks like frog eggs in a pond...
total slime... and can be black if not light to green if it has light exposure.
the killer stuff is on that diesel additives page.
and glove up and face shield as that stuff is worse than round up as hazmat.
and mark the tank and dash if on a truck that is has been treated so any mechanics have a chance of gloving up if it goes in to a shop for filter service!

and yes gallon per gallon pound per pound there is more energy in diesel fuel.
but they are a heat engine...
so they need block heaters and air preheat for colder climates.
any thing below 50 deg f then need to have block warmers and below 40 deg f the need air warmers for intake air.
this helps them start better as well as use less fuel, and smoke less.
 
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