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I am using motorcycle oil now during the break-in period. I did that partly due to the friction modifiers possibly helping with the break-in. But mainly, I did it because basically these portable generator engines have more in common with single-cylinder motorcycles (splash oil system) compared to automotive engines (pressurized oil system). Once the break-in is done, I'll switch to full-synth automotive oil.

Good plan?
I sent you a pm. Dutchy
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Fyi, this is the oil I used: PETRON SPRINT 4T SR800 FULLY SYNTHETIC Motorcycle Engine Oil (RACER) SAE 10W-40 - Petron

In the product datasheet (PDS), it didn't say anything specific about friction modifiers other than a vague statement about having "Excellent friction characteristics for optimum wet clutch performance".

The good news is, this oil has ZDDP (up to 2% by weight), as written in the safety datasheet (SDS).

So the question now... is it ok to use this oil even after break-in? Haven't done my first oil change yet.
 

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Yep the Petron oil looks pretty good, albeit with limited info. Better than run-of-the-mill stuff. However, racing oils aren’t meant for normal oil change intervals, they typically get changed out after each race, so see what the manufacturer suggests or look for a non-racing synthetic Oil instead. Good on you to be pro-active in your maintenance!!! Dutchy
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I wouldn't take the "Racing" moniker too seriously. It's just marketing people making their products sound cooler. It's a top-tier full-synth motorcycle oil, no more.

I very much appreciate your insights!
 

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What I meant was that if it’s labelled as a race lube, hype or not, it might not have the long life of a regular service interval as it’s intended to be changed after every race. It wouldn’t have a high TBN rating…needed to neutralize acid buildup over time. 😉
 

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cool! dutchy!
yea i knew the amsoil was its own thing.
but formulas change in other brands.
 

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An interesting propane issue I ran across this past weekend... I was running my mini gas grill with a 20lb tank to make a couple of burgers for lunch, but it was taking forever to cook them. I thought the tank might be getting near the end, so I swapped tanks, but the tank was still very heavy. I put it on my 25,000 BTU tank-top heater in the cottage, set it to a steady medium burn, and as I watched it the flame dwindled down to almost nothing. If I opened the tank valve fully again the burner would come back to life, but at anything less than that the gas supply would slowly choke itself off.

This is the second 20lb Blue Rhino tank with this issue I've had in the last two years. Sadly, the propane filling station near me closed, so I've been doing the $14.92 swaps at Walmart. Looks like I'll be driving farther to Tractor Supply for refills from now on after I swap out this lemon tank. That's where I've been going to fill my 40lb tanks.
 

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An interesting propane issue I ran across this past weekend... I was running my mini gas grill with a 20lb tank to make a couple of burgers for lunch, but it was taking forever to cook them. I thought the tank might be getting near the end, so I swapped tanks, but the tank was still very heavy. I put it on my 25,000 BTU tank-top heater in the cottage, set it to a steady medium burn, and as I watched it the flame dwindled down to almost nothing. If I opened the tank valve fully again the burner would come back to life, but at anything less than that the gas supply would slowly choke itself off.

This is the second 20lb Blue Rhino tank with this issue I've had in the last two years. Sadly, the propane filling station near me closed, so I've been doing the $14.92 swaps at Walmart. Looks like I'll be driving farther to Tractor Supply for refills from now on after I swap out this lemon tank. That's where I've been going to fill my 40lb tanks.
hummm air in the tank?? not purged right?
or bad load of fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I have ran the generator until it stalled from the last drop of gasoline in the tank. From here on, it’ll be running off propane primarily... but still maybe switch to gasoline for longer outages. The tank is literally dry with only the gas fumes in there. Do I need to do anything to keep the metal tank from rusting/corroding? The cap is the vented kind (pinhole), if that makes any difference.
 

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use the staibil marine fogger.
that works great for tanks!
and fuel pumps in tanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Is it necessary to run a dual-fuel generator on gasoline every so often?

The premise here is that the generator has been converted to be able to run on LP. After that, the metal tank, sediment bowl, fuel lines, and the carb has been totally emptied of gasoline... not one visible residue remains.... just the fumes.

On one hand, the whole point of installing the conversion kit is so that gasoline doesn't have to stay inside, go stale, and cause all sorts of nasty things to happen. But, is there a downside leaving it in the opposite extreme; totally dry?
 

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Is it necessary to run a dual-fuel generator on gasoline every so often?
For what's is worth, I have been storing my gasoline engines for years by running a VERY rich mixture of Walmart Super Tech TC-W3 Outboard 2-Cycle Oil (only about $13/gal.). I empty gas tank and then run carb dry first. Next, on the gen, I run about a 1/2 cup or so of the 2-cycle mix (slosh around in gas tank first to get it coated with oil) until carb runs dry again. The drain plug on your conversion regulator would make it easy to verify that the carb is completely free of any gasoline. I have similar conversion regulator on mine for NG use.
Contrary to a lot of recommendations, I have never used any fuel stabilizers, nor do I store my equipment with gasoline in the tank(s). I do rotate the gasoline in my cans by running in my car to keep them fresh.
The marine oil is blue in color, and it makes it very easy to see what is coated with oil. I have been doing this on my lawn mower (15+ years old now), generator (a 2008 model), gas edger (20+ years old), and a few other small engines. I have never had an issue with starting them up again in the spring. As for the generator, it has set for several years at a time without a run. I pull the rope until compression TDC after carb has run dry. I also lightly spray used motor oil on the outside of the muffler to minimize the rusting (it burns off when engine is started). The 2-cycle oil in the exhaust coats the inside of the muffler.
I have taken some of the carb bowls off to examine them, and I find the blue oil still coating everything in the spring.
 

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Is it necessary to run a dual-fuel generator on gasoline every so often?

The premise here is that the generator has been converted to be able to run on LP. After that, the metal tank, sediment bowl, fuel lines, and the carb has been totally emptied of gasoline... not one visible residue remains.... just the fumes.

On one hand, the whole point of installing the conversion kit is so that gasoline doesn't have to stay inside, go stale, and cause all sorts of nasty things to happen. But, is there a downside leaving it in the opposite extreme; totally dry?
I don’t think so. My old champion went 8 years from it’s first break-in on gasoline with a bone dry tank. No signs of rust anywhere. Tank and carb was emptied thoroughly and sat without issue. For good measure, now a days I spray tanks with wd-40 with the flexible straw that articulates to get really good coverage all over the inside.

Like genknot mentioned a bit of 2stroke oil mixed with the gas before draining helps keep a nice coating as well. If the tank is easily removable then you can always add some gas oil mix and slosh it around before draining.

Fogging spray is handy for coating the intake track of an engine for storage but Im not sure if it will truly “Fogs“ the inside of a tank if spayed inside and left to it’s own devices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks. I've done turning the crank over and leaving it at compression... not at TDC, afaik. I just pulled on the rope, felt a small bump followed by an even bigger bump (presumably the compression stroke) and stopped at the onset.

I might try misting the inside of the tank with WD40, but let me think it over. This, having a vented cap, I wouldn't want the oil film to become a dust magnet. Or am I overthinking this? lol
 

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I wouldn't want the oil film to become a dust magnet
I try to keep my gen covered to minimize the dust issue. Seems to be working so far. :)

It doesn't have to be exactly at compression TDC...just near it. In that condition the valves are closed thus sealing the cylinder. It also relaxes the valve spring tension. But you already know that. I am including it here so that others coming upon this will know why that is done.

One thing I failed to mention is that now that I have converted to NG, I will still use the same shutdown/storage procedure except with one modification. I will do the storage run with the gasoline & 2-cycle oil mix using an IV setup. That way, I don't have to deal with putting gasoline into my tank again.

I haven't put my gen back into storage mode yet as I am still doing some testing after the NG conversion. I have avgas in the tank, and it can stay there awhile.

I am trying to decide on replacing this 3KW genset with an inverter type in the 5KW range. Decisions, decisions... :unsure:
 
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