[WVsky]

Went to start my generator last night during a storm, and nothing. Today I charged the battery and nothing. (the battery's good) Then I used one of those great little pocket jumpers on the leads after removing the battery and ... nothing.

When I first posted this I was asking about the Ignition coil, but after looking at Harbor Freight, now I'm wondering if I'm talking about the wrong thing. What I suspect is what we called the "solenoid" back in the day. The positive lead from the battery runs to this and then the starter. So I "think" it's the solenoid that's my problem. Can anyone help put me in the right direction for this issue?

Thanks!

 

[iowagold]

so what is the gen doing? no crank?
a test light helps to make sure the signal for a call to start is on the coil for the start sol.

if it is no crank then jump the sol to see if the starter will turn the engine over...
if it starts
then next jump the battery pos to the start sol coil to see if it tries to start.
if it fails then replace the start sol.
hf is the parts place on these.

 

[WVsky]

so what is the gen doing? no crank?

Nothing. Pushing the start button does nothing. Manual start works fine, but it's a heavy pull and I'm too old to be pulling that cord more than a few times. My guess is the Solenoid. Today I will check that area to make sure everything's tight. I've noticed that there are many small engine Solenoids for sale on the Net, so it must be a common issue.
We used to jump the Solenoids on our Ford cars back in the day, so I assume you can do the same thing here?

Thanks!

 

[WVsky]

Found the problem: Turns out it was the Solenoid. Now I have to find one.
Thanks!

 

[iowagold]

hf has the oem parts

 

[WVsky]

hf has the oem parts

My mistake! It wasnt the Solenoid at all, even though I bought a new one and replaced the old one. Turn out it was the SWITCH. *sigh.

 

[iowagold]

LOL!
yup
use a test light!
always load the switch with a test light as a power draw test...

so expand on the faulty switch...
did it fall apart? or was it just not making contact right?
or operator error?

 

[WVsky]

use a test light!
always load the switch with a test light as a power draw test...
so expand on the faulty switch...
did it fall apart? or was it just not making contact right?
or operator error?

Here's the deal: That switch is embedded in the panel to the point that you have to take everything ... and I mean everything apart to get to it. Once I did and checked it, there was no contact whatsoever. The switch looks perfectly fine, but something inside went haywire. This must be a common issue since even AMAZON sells it! ( $16. ) Thing is, of ALL the things I figured could go wrong, the switch wasnt one of them. It's sealed in a rubbery plastic and felt very normal when I pressed its 3 positions. So... other than the twenty bucks I wasted on a generic Solenoid, (I took the old one apart) I'm hoping this will fix it.

 

[iowagold]

yea most of this stuff you have to tear down way too far to get in to where they magic parts are!

a good fluke volt meter and a good lisle test light will help you walk down through most of the 12 volt stuff easy.

 

[WVsky]

Just ordered another starter Solenoid and the switch from Amazon. These are being sold by a company in Florida. If anyone needs parts for a Harbor Freight generator and any other small machine, I would buy it here because no Harbor Freight store carry's these parts. You have to go through the company website, and since their main operation is in California, if you live on the East Coast you'd get the parts faster here. I talked to the guy who owns the company in Florida and he seems to run a good company. Here's the Amazon Link to his store:
Small engine parts

 

[rotorgoat]

My mistake! It wasnt the Solenoid at all, even though I bought a new one and replaced the old one. Turn out it was the SWITCH. *sigh.

I have the same model and have been having the same problem but only occasionally. I've suspected the switch (start position) all along. Surprisingly it seems to be less of a problem as time goes on so I haven't replaced it.

 

[WVsky]

OK, put everything back together and fired right up, so it WAS the switch. I left the generac Solenoid on the engine to save me the trouble of removing it. Plus, I just wanted to see if it would work OK. It did. So... it appears that the switch on this generator is a weak spot and if your engine doesnt turn over, I'd check there first.

 

[iowagold]

yup go a water proof switch would be the best mod!

 

[WVsky]

yup go a water proof switch would be the best mod!

Oops... I forgot to even ask if they had the silicone cover for that switch. Oh well, I keep the generator covered at all times and not once (so far) have I had to operate it in the rain.

 

[iowagold]

just the moisture from the air will get in the switch..
over time it will fail.

inject dielectric silicone spray in the switch contacts.
that helps hold back the bad.

we use a thin silicone spray on that open style switch that does not have a water proof replacement that will fit the unit.