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Just got the snorkel in. I have not reassembled the throttle assemble yet but did your choke close with it installed?
The choke will not close with it in. Did you snap a pic of throttle? Think I have it figured out but would like to know 100%. Pretty sure the large spring controls engine speed and thus frequency. Mine still cranks fine with gasoline. I figure with no functioning choke if you had trouble cranking with gasoline, you need starting fluid. Shouldn’t need choke with natural gas or propane.
 

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did your choke close with it installed?
Mine does, but it requires some force. It has to squeeze the snorkel a bit. You don't use the choke on propane, only for gasoline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
just make sure to leave the choke open when stored so it does not crush the tube all the time..
that plastic memory thing!
 

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just make sure to leave the choke open when stored so it does not crush the tube all the time..
that plastic memory thing!
It would be odd to apply the choke fully when shutting off the generator, so likely not a problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
after the engine is off we turn on the choke or close the choke to keep anything out of the carb....
bugs mice etc...
they like to eat at the air filters etc.

and before season start up we check the air filter as well as the oil on stored equipment.
just to be sure.
and plug / cover the exhaust as mud dobbers like to build in any holes!
 

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The choke will not close with it in. Did you snap a pic of throttle? Think I have it figured out but would like to know 100%. Pretty sure the large spring controls engine speed and thus frequency. Mine still cranks fine with gasoline. I figure with no functioning choke if you had trouble cranking with gasoline, you need starting fluid. Shouldn’t need choke with natural gas or propane.
Got lots of pics and will attach them. I had to play with it a bit and the throttle at least closes partially at this point but you are right about not really needing it on nat gas or propane. Also have progressed some on the mounting but i got side tracked.
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Yes
 

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Got lots of pics and will attach them. I had to play with it a bit and the throttle at least closes partially at this point but you are right about not really needing it on nat gas or propane. Also have progressed some on the mounting but i got side tracked.
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View attachment 9253 View attachment 9253 Yes
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I think you are in 280,000 to 300,000 btu per hour territory...
It looks like, they gave me part of the connection for a 100 pound tank. I didn't get the part that screws into the "bottle.". U.S. Carburation has so far had excellent customer service. I called and they had it in the mail the next day. I got it in 2 days. I didn't need the Acme nut. I needed this. F466B3EE-E499-4C07-ABA2-693DC273DBDA.jpeg 79198C20-8772-4777-9729-F19A18BD5EAC.jpeg 6BE2C8C9-8DB3-4E75-AFEF-0F44CC5EE676.jpeg Screws in counter clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
yea all of the conversion stuff is bits from here and there...
they are all different as most folks have custom setups!
 

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Well, it's all together but can't get it to start on propane. Never tried to "catch." Works fine on gasoline still. I'm not foolin with it any further. Likely something simple. The fine retired gentleman that works at the propane distributor and parts supply is an expert at this. He wanted me to bring it by even if I didn't need any help so he could see it and look it over. He knows the people at U.S Carburation as well. Once they get it running, I can pick out a new propane tank and get it filled while I'm there. He only works on Friday so I'll give him a heads up that I'll be there on Friday. I'll report back what the problem was.

Got that big spring back in right spot thanks to pics from Texas T and frequency is back right. It's running 62.5 frequency without any load. I hooked up my big miter saw to it and watched the frequency. Ran at 60.5Hz at least according to the display.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
you do have the gasoline total shut off and ran the carb dry of gasoline right?
if not it will over fuel the gen for a no start.

press and hold the prime button on the demand reg a few times...
it may take total of 10-30 sec to purge the air the first time.

you can even do that with the hose off at the demand reg till it smells of lp...
on first connection...
you have to push all of the air out of the LP or NG hoses and feed lines...
i prefer to use female quick couplers on the hoses so it locks them full of LP or NG
then you can use a back to back male as a short coupler to join to the feed.

I wish the male side had a quick shut off ball built in like the female side for quick break style.
I guess you could put in a full port brass LP / NG ball valve inline on the males.
 

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I am going to try it out this weekend so keep your fingers crossed for me. Let me know what your person says was the issue after he is done.
 

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Ok, so made my first attempt. Had to regap the plugs as they were sitting about .035 so now they are close to the .020 gap. Adjusted about 8 turns and it ran like a champ …. Until the gasoline that was left in the line ran out. Good news I didn’t break it bad news I could not feather in the nat gas. Second attempt after rechecking the soak gap, was able to run the generator but only by keeping the primer button depressed. No amount of adjusting to make it richer helped. I am running 2 psi up to the generator and then knock down to 8” WC.
Next step is to disassemble and check for any snorkel path restrictions in the carb.
 
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