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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've scored what I hope is a good deal on a standby generator, but I need to tap the collective wisdom to make it work. I picked up this Generac with a transfer switch for $600.
8088

The tag reads: Model # 93A 03766S Date 11/19/93 Type: SG011-A161.2V18PDYAY Fuel System # 76004
It has 267 hours on the clock. The story is that it came from a firehouse and it aged out and was replaced. I was told it was set up for natural gas and I've had that hooked up from the house. I replaced the 11 year old battery (yikes!) and fired it up, but ... no love. I checked for spark at the plugs, and that's good. I was able to read this off of the first valve in line from the house.
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G-LP Valve Model SNC-1014-31B 12VDC .9amps 5psi Eaton.
My guess is the the "G-LP" means liquid propane. If so, what do I need to make this run on NG? The next things up the line are these.
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Maxitrol Model# IMP 53
8091

I thank you in advance for your help and input. Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #2
A friend suggested that I might need to bleed the air out of the line, which I did. No difference. I'm guessing that the first valve is a safety shut off. It has 2 wires, one going to ground. I tested the "incoming" wire for voltage while cranking and got nothing. There's alot of new wiring, which makes me think that I'm going to need a professional to fix this. I'm in over my head. Thanks anyhow. Dave
 

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reach out to Generac .
they should have the parts list for both the lp and natural gas versions.
natural gas has larger jets for the fuel.

also check on the pipe size to the house...
you will need a larger meter setup in most locations.
check the specs for how many btu this will run.
most of the time these are thirsty units...

the regulator diaphrams might be bad with age... the sitting is the worst on the rubber.
 

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In my opinion you have a good generator provided you follow thru and get it running.
That wire to a solenoid is where I would start.
That earlier model may no longer have Generac's help.
First I would look for the remote manual switch.
Select manual.
Then try again to start it, If no luck maybe we can talk you thru your problem.
First you need to see if Generac supports it after all these years.
Enter you model # here and get any info Generac will give you.
Sorry, but you need the serial number, Generac does not show anything under the model #.
See if you can find it, possibly on the tag.
 

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For the past several months this type of generator has been sold by an auction company online, Meadowbrook power Inc. Springfield Ill. 62703. Telephone number is shown.
Click the link.....
The generators they have been selling are take outs from cell towers.
There are two problems with buying a 20+ year old take out.
First, they were maintained by men that are much older now and have possibly retired, but you can bet that this company has men that can repair your generator or offer advice about how to fix it. Who knows, they may have a schematic.
Second, Generac seems to drop support after 20 years.
I did find a schematic for a similar generator made in 2001.
Simply copy and paste the model number into Generac's search line shown in my earlier post.
The schematic covered two pages that included the transfer switch that was enclosed inside the generator.
I copied the schematic and then just last week I trashed it thinking I would not buy one.
I decided to see what I could find that may be of help to you, so here goes.
Once you get the web site up, look for any 15 KW Generac that was made after 2000.
I found two: 2001, serial number 3530802, model 0009951.
2001, serial number 3519022. model 0009951
The serial numbers need to be in the later 3500000 numbers.
Maybe the schematic of these units will be similar to the one you have.
Once you get the schematic maybe we can help you
 

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OK, so I got some time to try one of the model numbers and it worked.
Once there, click the engine schematic.
Wait for it to load.
Then save it to your downloads. I did find several prints pertaining to the system for downloading.
I bet that Generac did use the same engine schematic for most of those units. One can only guess.
To start with, you need a good battery fully charged,
Water level up to the marked line, and oil up to the proper level.
Once you are sure if these items, then go for fuel flow.
You should feel the fuel solenoid click.
Then back to the fuel flow. Improper gas regulators will give you untold problems, so you need to be sure your regulators are allowing gas to flow.
There needs to be two regulators on both the propane and NG lines.
Once to that point then we need to get into the schematic.

Added note: I did find a listing for a model 0009950 which was a 1998 unit. I compared the download pdf numbers and they match the 2001 year 0009951 listing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you so much! That unit looks just like what I have. My fluids are all up to par. New battery cranking strong. I do not hear/feel a click the solenoid. (I'm guessing we're talking about the silver unit with 2 wires in the second picture)
 

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I took time to trace the Fuel Solenoid wire 14 on schematic 0A7271 or 0A7272.
First I would be sure that the wire from the relay board going to the gas valve is not broken.
The #14 goes from the solenoid to the Relay Board where it is color coded RY1.
(lower right side of the schematic.)
Wire 14 then leaves the Relay board and goes to the HM (hour meter).
(Mid ways in the schematic)
Wire 14 T's off the HM and snakes it's way to TB-1 shown on the schematic.
Once on TB-1 the screws are shown jumped T6 + T7.
Two bleed off capacitors are tied there and again wire 14 goes to pin 7 on the PCB board.
Provided that all connections are tight at all terminations, then you might have a big problem.
You need to get the PCB board ID number and get in touch with Generac for a replacement.
Generac may not cooperate with you as you are not one of their dealers.
But before you get into replacing the PCB lets look further.
The following is what I would do if it were mine, but be very CAUTIOUS!
You can devise a way to see if you can manually jump the gas valve with 12 volts and make it energize. Your problem could be that you just have a bad gas valve, and that can be replaced very easily.
You should however remove wire 14 before jumping the solenoid so as to not back feed the PCB board.
Finding a schematic of the PCB board will not likely be had.
If it were mine I would take the board out and put it on the bench and devise a way to fix it.
Don't leave us hanging. Let us know what you find. It could help others.
By the way, be sure that you have the pressure regulators in line and working.
 
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Well, D-50Dell must have given up.
I searched for any forum that had any info on Generac generators.
I found one and the problems are immense with parts and schematics.
One guy said Generac did return his call about a part.
They told him he would have to contact a dealer for the part.
He made several calls to dealers and all refused to sell him the parts he needed.
You know, that leaves a bad taste in any buyers mouth.
At my age, the Generac will probably out last me, but I for one will not buy Generac in the future.
I wish I had a buyer, As I would sell and get out now.
 
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same here
I have no time for companies that will not sell parts if you have the cash!
all that secret hand shake stuff has got to go!!
lol!!
I will stick with my hondas!
I have yet to have honda refuse to sell me parts!!
or take my money!!
lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No, ToolLover, I haven't given up. 😉 I have an electrician who will do diagnostics as well as hookup to the house. He had me start at the meter and I need to double it's flow rate before I have enough fuel available to satisfy all my gas needs. I'm working with my utility to make that happen. It may be a slow process, but I will keep this post updated as things move along. Thanks for your help and encouragement. Dave
 
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