Power Equipment Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

My name is Jeff and I've got a working Homelite EHE4000CSA (UT -03647). I don't find much info on it on the web but it's a standard B&S 8HP motor and the head was configured for 120 and 240VAC. It's 4000W peak, 3600W running so it's 120V-15A times two with a center neutral.

I need 120V 30A for my travel trailer. I thought it would be a simple task to pull the end cap off and swap the wires around from series to parallel and then wire it up to a travel trailer socket (TT-30R).

Unfortunately I found a much more complicated wiring scheme and need some help deciphering it so I don't smoke the windings.

I found that the head terminated in 5 sets of wires, they were crimped into ring connectors but then just shielded over and tired into the windings. On my diagram I've labelled them A-E. I get 120V from A-C and from C-E and I get 240V from A-E. B and C didn't go anywhere else, they were just ways of tying the windings together. I've also labelled the four wires that go to C as C-upper and C-lower.

So here's my question. Can I separate the wires at C and connect C-upper to E and C-lower to A? That puts the windings in parallel and should give me 120V at 30 amps right?

What does that do to B and D? They seem to be feedback to the AVR, will their polarity be OK if I do that or do I have to pull B or D apart and swap the polarity of one of them?

JayArr

PS: I'm also converting it to propane but I'll make a separate thread to share my install notes.
9165
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
987 Posts
On a 240V generator, the two 120V legs are 180 degrees out of phase. That's why you get 240V across them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,551 Posts
Hi All

My name is Jeff and I've got a working Homelite EHE4000CSA (UT -03647). I don't find much info on it on the web but it's a standard B&S 8HP motor and the head was configured for 120 and 240VAC. It's 4000W peak, 3600W running so it's 120V-15A times two with a center neutral.

I need 120V 30A for my travel trailer. I thought it would be a simple task to pull the end cap off and swap the wires around from series to parallel and then wire it up to a travel trailer socket (TT-30R).
snap some pix of the gen set for us.
is this an older flat head gen set?
or a later OHV engine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As you can see, I've modified a few things LOL. It'll be mounted on the tongue of my trailer under a box and run off the same propane system as the trailer. I bought an aftermarket carb and gutted it and plumbed in the propane kit. It also has electric start which was a pretty big factor. I want my wife to be able to start it by herself if I'm not around and I doubt she could pull start a 4K generator. The K&N filter is just for reduced size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Exactly, It came wired for 120/240 with two windings stacked in series with the center of them neutral. Each winding is capable of about 15A at 120VAC. I have no need for 240VAC but I do need 120VAC at 30A. I need to get the two windings in parallel so it meets my needs.

I think my trouble is that I don't know what voltage is supposed to be going to the AVR, is there a standard voltage for this?

Also: I think this was a Canadian model, the CSA at the end of the model tips me off. Has anyone seen a model like this with maybe a slightly different number? I can't find any documentation but if I can find the UAS model number for the same generator I may have have better luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,551 Posts
the phase windings may not be in the proper stator slots to let you do that.

they need to be clocked for in phase 120 vac.
a good electric motor rewind shop has the test gear for this.

this unit is so old the manuals are not in digital..
hard to say what version of the avr setup they are using.

you will be better off doing a later quiet gen set with OHV
that is unless you are camping alone...

here in the states quiet time in most of the camp grounds you need to be under 50 db
unless you are located in the generator section of the camp ground...
and those camping areas are loud!

what kind of camper?
and i take it you are wanting to run an air con unit?
what brand and model
and same on the microwave.
and how about the battery charger for the house dc?
is it late model or older?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No AC, just to run for a couple of hours every few days to recharge the batteries. We can live without AC and Microwave when we're camping but if it's spring or fall we can use up the battery at night running the furnace. We managed three days on our batteries last time out so the gen won't even run every day. Our campgrounds allow generators in all sections but only from 8-10 in the morning and 6-8 at night. Basically just to recharge batteries. The rest of the time it doesn't matter how quiet the gen is, it isn't allowed. Running your generator at night will get you evicted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,551 Posts
hummm
why so big on the gen set?
what is the real draw on the camper?
have you checked it?

a smaller gen unit will suck less fuel...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
I don't think it would be considerate or appropriate to run a loud generator at any campground or other area where people are spending their time. For this type of application, I would get the quietest and most efficient generator that will meet the requirements.

Sandwiched between two inconsiderate and loud neighbors and living in a neighborhood with incessant leaf blowing by landscapers, unnecessary noise is a real pet peeve of mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sigh...

I came to ask questions about how to rewire a generator head and I'm getting judgement on how loud it is and advice to throw it away and spend $1000 on a new Honda.

The way the parks work around here is that it doesn't matter how quiet the generator is, there are no db levels to meet and no incentive to spend a lot of money on a new quieter generator. We all use our generators from 8-10 in the morning or 6-8 at night and then we all shut them off. Even if I spent a pile of money on a brand new inverter generator I still wouldn't be allowed to run it outside of those two charge windows. They are used to charge batteries and if you time your meals right you can run your microwave during the charge time. The rest of the day/night you need to live on battery or from an inverter. It's very peaceful except for these two mealtimes which are always full of activity anyway. There are NO generators running through the day or night, none. If they catch you running even the quietest inverter generator after 8PM you get evicted.

Yes, this old guy is loud but I've bought new rubber mounts and it will live inside a plywood box to muffle it.

As for requirements, my Xantrex pulls 22Amps if it has to charge the battery at full capacity (100ADC). Once it's out of bulk charge and into the maintenance portion of the charge cycle that is considerably less and I could then also microwave some dinner.

The generator is converted to run on propane, it will be plumbed directly into the trailer. that's why you don't see a gas tank in the pictures. I never need to winterize it or worry that my gas has gone bad. It will start every time and there are no longer any moving parts in the carburetor to get gummed up or need rebuilding.

Now back to the original question, can I connect C-lower to A and C-upper to E to get 120VAC at 30A?
9173
9174
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,551 Posts
a fast ans might be no.
it depends on the phase angle of those windings.

yup i hear you on the cost ...
but the noise on a flat head engine WOW!
lol
i have only seen water mufflers quiet those down a bit....

we do a lot with vendors, and state fair here in the summer time...
a quiet gen is a must for sanity.
our systems end up so quiet they can run during quiet time!!
quiet box, quiet exhaust stack shooting exhaust up with baffles.
that is below 50 db!

I would have invested my time with at least an modern ohv engine...
and wow on your current demand!
think smaller battery charger just for the gen set run, and trip out the 100 amp dc power supply / battery charger when charging batteries when doing the boondocks with out shore power.

question for you how many batteries are you running?
and what exact group size? are they deep cycle? and what brand?

we run in to the same issue on the air stream trailers...
so to conserve power we use led lights,
and have upgraded most of the appliances to modern tri fuel.
except the panasonic inverter microwave.
and it will run on lower settings with the smaller honda eu2200i gen set.

and we use the micro air soft start on the air con unit.
works perfect!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,551 Posts
hey a thought you could use a 220 vac to 120 vac step down transformer!
that would work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Try to think about how big and heavy a 4000W step down transformer would be, not to mention how expensive it would be. I've got a 1500W transformer in my shop that I have to brace myself to lift, I think a 4000W would weigh more than the genny. LOL

I already own the inverter/charger, it puts out 2500W of AC if needed so we could run the microwave for short bursts if we need to but in practice we never do. It will work great if I can get the generator to output 30A. I'd much rather charge my batteries in one 2 hour block every three days than have generator droning on for hours and hours. To each his own I guess.

If I can just get these wires figured out I'm operational without spending any more $$ so that's my objective. A new smaller generator would require a smaller inverter generator and that's just a lot of $$ ($1000?, $1500?) that I don't want to spend to be a few db quieter. There is just no advantage to it where we camp.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
If your 120V receptacle is working, can't you just break the hot connection between the two 120V plugs and replace one of the hots with the other "out of phase" hot wire that is feeding the 240V 6-20 outlet? That should give you two separate 15A 120V circuits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That is how it is now Browse,

I have Qty-2 120V 15A circuits that can also be accessed as Qty-1 240VAC 15A.

What I need is Qty-1 120V 30A circuit.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top