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I've got an older leaf blower that's always ran really well. I got it from my dad a couple years back, never had a problem. Maybe it was a little difficult to start sometimes, but it ran like a top. Craftsman Model number 358.797310. It has a Walbro 945 WA229 carb on it.

End of last season, it wouldn't start. I looked in the gas tank and the fuel filter/float had broken off the fuel line. No big deal, I thought. And I put it away and figured I would look at it some time over the winter. Well, I'm stumped. I still can't get it to start. Occasionally, it'll start for about 5 second and then it'll start to sputter down and die. One time while running for a couple seconds, I saw fuel leaking, so I took the carb off and replaced the carb to engine gasket. No more leaking fuel, great! But it still won't start.

I replaced both the supply and return line to the tank.
Replaced the fuel filter.
Carb Gasket to engine.
Generally cleaned and gotten rid of years of accumulated gunk.


It seems like it's not getting fuel. I've primed the carb with the cover off and I can see the air bubbles in the fuel lines, and I prime until they are gone and the line is full of fuel.

Anyone have any suggestions? I feel like I must just be missing something pretty straight forward, but I'll be a monkeys uncle, I can't see it!
 

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Two things I will puke check.

1. The carb, full disassembly and clean. Or replace with a new one.

2. Piston rings. But only if it pulls really easy with little resistance when you pull start. I’ve fixed 4 recently for friends that all had hardly any resistance on pull start, replaced rings and all now work like they should.

Just my two thoughts! Hope it helps!


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This really sounds like a fuel problem.
When you replace fuel lines it can be easy to mix up the primer connections. That is the first thing you should be convinced you have plumbed correctly.
Make sure all fuel line is new! Don't screw around with the original line. This advice is from experience. Because tiny cracks can be really hard to see.
After that the second suspect is the carb. Sometimes it is less frustrating to simply buy a new one (from the manufacturer). This way allows you to move on with some amount of confidence if it is still not starting.
If you feel that you have the fuel possibilities ruled-out then the list of things narrows to electrical or something internal, such as crank seals, for example.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Two things I will puke check.

1. The carb, full disassembly and clean. Or replace with a new one.

2. Piston rings. But only if it pulls really easy with little resistance when you pull start. I’ve fixed 4 recently for friends that all had hardly any resistance on pull start, replaced rings and all now work like they should.

Just my two thoughts! Hope it helps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It pulls with resistance, which is good. I'm leaning towards the carb. I did a general cleaning, but it didn't seem to help.


Two things I will puke check.

1. The carb, full disassembly and clean. Or replace with a new one.

2. Piston rings. But only if it pulls really easy with little resistance when you pull start. I’ve fixed 4 recently for friends that all had hardly any resistance on pull start, replaced rings and all now work like they should.

Just my two thoughts! Hope it helps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm gueIt pulls with resistance, which is good.
This really sounds like a fuel problem.
When you replace fuel lines it can be easy to mix up the primer connections. That is the first thing you should be convinced you have plumbed correctly.
Make sure all fuel line is new! Don't screw around with the original line. This advice is from experience. Because tiny cracks can be really hard to see.
After that the second suspect is the carb. Sometimes it is less frustrating to simply buy a new one (from the manufacturer). This way allows you to move on with some amount of confidence if it is still not starting.
If you feel that you have the fuel possibilities ruled-out then the list of things narrows to electrical or something internal, such as crank seals, for example.
Good luck.
Agreed. I did repalce all the lines, and I swapped the lines to the carb a couple of times, just to make sure. But, the primer does seem to function correct, after 1 or two pumps, you can see fuel moving through the line.

The carb cross reference for the walbro on it, WA-229-1 are more expensive than buying a new leaf blower. So I did order a rebuild kit, waiting for it to come in. It was only a couple of dollars, so I figured it was worth a shot.
 
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