ummm, maybe a clog in the fuel line or filter
Need help with Husqvarna 257... video shows problem
so im trying to get this chainsaw going right... the blade was on backwards at the end of last fall... i switched it, but that was after i used it to cut a few things, and it wouldnt run right. i cleaned the carb and air filter and got a new spark plug, but now it still wont run right... i explain more in the videos. any help is much appreciated. thanks in advance
chainsaw :: chainsawproblem1.mp4 video by tonyvisone - Photobucket
chainsaw :: chainsawproblem2.mp4 video by tonyvisone - Photobucket
chainsaw :: chainsawproblem1.mp4 video by tonyvisone - Photobucket
chainsaw :: chainsawproblem2.mp4 video by tonyvisone - Photobucket
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
i tuned the low speed screw and it idles good now. but when i rev it up and let it go back down it dies. i think i just need to tune the high speed screw now. do you know where i can find the stock screw specs?
before you do anything to the hi low idles, I'd replace the fuel filter, something I learned on husq products is you have to look at the bottom of the filter, if it's brown it's dirty and needs to be replaced. The sides will look perfectly fine. Start with that.
I agree with has bin said already,, But there's a reason it "changed" the way it operates after 20 minutes of a DULL or BACKWARDS chain.......... HEAT!!! It will kill the crank seals... Not try'n to jump to conclusions, but this is MORE commen than you think.......
hmmmm, ive had a few tuning sessions with it. i got the low just right so it would start without throttle (which was always needed in the past years). but then i went to try it again and it wasnt as good as before. im going to mess with it again tomorrow. i hope its not crankseals though, any way to tell? and a fuel filter issue would be nice
Take the bar/chain off, leave the cover off, start the saw and spray alittle startin fluid around the clutch area, If they're bad you'll notice a change in RPM... (this doesn't always work, do to the clutch blockin the spray)The flywheel side it's almost impossible to check this way... The only other way is to pressure check or do a leak down vacuum check.... But these methods require some special toolin, such as plate blockers for the exhaust and intake/plus a gauge....
Take the bar/chain off, leave the cover off, start the saw and spray alittle startin fluid around the clutch area, If they're bad you'll notice a change in RPM... (this doesn't always work, do to the clutch blockin the spray)The flywheel side it's almost impossible to check this way... The only other way is to pressure check or do a leak down vacuum check.... But these methods require some special toolin, such as plate blockers for the exhaust and intake/plus a gauge....
i didnt see this until just now... i thought i would get an email when i got responses.
i didnt think of clutches... that would make a lot of sense since the chain was on backwards and i was forcing it to cut for a little while. it was probably a ton of load and eventually burnt them out. ill have to mess with it again soon. i will update once i do. since theres a high chance that it wont run well, is there a way i can tell if the clutch is bad by just pulling it off and examining it?
thanks
i did what you said and it ran great! so what is bad on it, the clutch or the drum? is all i need to do is replace it, or both?Take the bar/chain off, leave the cover off, start the saw and spray alittle startin fluid around the clutch area, If they're bad you'll notice a change in RPM... (this doesn't always work, do to the clutch blockin the spray)The flywheel side it's almost impossible to check this way... The only other way is to pressure check or do a leak down vacuum check.... But these methods require some special toolin, such as plate blockers for the exhaust and intake/plus a gauge....
also, what was the point of spraying starting fluid on it? to clean it? or to help it engage or something?? thanks
Make sure you are subscribed to the thread and checked email notification in your User CP.i didnt see this until just now... i thought i would get an email when i got responses.
i didnt think of clutches... that would make a lot of sense since the chain was on backwards and i was forcing it to cut for a little while. it was probably a ton of load and eventually burnt them out. ill have to mess with it again soon. i will update once i do. since theres a high chance that it wont run well, is there a way i can tell if the clutch is bad by just pulling it off and examining it?
thanks
Okay, I just checked and you were not Subcribed to threads to receive Email notificaton of responses. I changed that for you. You can change it back or pm me and I can change it back for you if you don't like it.
SonnyT
SonnyT
thanks a lot!Okay, I just checked and you were not Subcribed to threads to receive Email notificaton of responses. I changed that for you. You can change it back or pm me and I can change it back for you if you don't like it.
SonnyT
so to recap....
the starting fluid on the clutch made it run great....
so do i need a new clutch? and drum? if so, how do i take them off, i just tried and couldnt get it off, not even with the air gun.
also, what did the starter fluid do??
i need to order parts if needed and cut a tree down before winter
thanks
the starting fluid on the clutch made it run great....
so do i need a new clutch? and drum? if so, how do i take them off, i just tried and couldnt get it off, not even with the air gun.
also, what did the starter fluid do??
i need to order parts if needed and cut a tree down before winter
thanks
If the engine speeds up when you spray that area it means the crank seals are leaking. Roger
well, i sprayed starting fluid on the clutch and now it runs great, i just cut down two trees today...
im just wondering what the issue was and what the fluid did...
im just wondering what the issue was and what the fluid did...
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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