That's great! You may be on to something. See if you can find a pattern that will make starting much less of a struggle.
I wonder if that has anything to do with the OPD valve (assuming yours is equipped)?Disconnected hose from gen and smelled it. No propane smell at all.
Disconnected regulator from propane tank. Expected a pressure release sound but didn't hear (or smell) anything.
Yep, your link appears to be what's going on. Plunger inside OPD valve isn't getting depressed unless hand-tightened regulator attachment knob is really tight. May be an O-ring or seal that needs to compress?? May be related to cold weather?? Need to play around with it some more. Weather isn't cooperating today.I wonder if that has anything to do with the OPD valve (assuming yours is equipped)?
Certain propane cylinder valves will only allow gas to flow if the connection is properly made. Learn about propane cylinder valve connections and operation.www.propane101.com
Interesting that your OEM Torch plug was at .022 gap. That actually works but isn't per manual specs. I would use the same .022 gap for the NGK Iridium also.
Sounds like you are making good progress! Scope pics would be nice if you can get them.
I'll have to listen for that click the next time I run it. Because I haven't found a reason why it starts right up sometimes and not others.
BTW where did you get your magnetic dipstick?
Thank you, much appreciated.Thinking back, I'm not 100% sure when click sound occurred. May have been when tightening hand fitting or when valve was opened, but definitely remember a click sound on second attempt. It's supposed to rain all day here, so probably won't get a chance to play around with it until tomorrow.
Got magnetic dipstick here: It's a bit pricey but built like a tank.
Great scope readings with load numbers.Finished-up the break-in today and changed the oil. Magnetic dipstick looked great. Oil turned a shade of light shade of gray. I had left the propane regulator attached to propane tank and disconnected at front panel of inverter last time I used it. Did not disturb connection of regulator to tank. Re-connected hose to inverter and set to Choke. Did 6 rope pulls, didn't sound like it wanted to fire. Switch to Run (propane) and it started on first pull. Still got some experimentation to do.
Captured some scope traces with no load, a 4 amp load and a 8 amp load. Load was either one or two 500-watt work lights.
View attachment 10888 View attachment 10889
^^^^ Above is zero load ^^^^
View attachment 10890 View attachment 10891
^^^^ Above is with 4 amp load ^^^^
View attachment 10892 View attachment 10893
^^^^ Above is with 8 amp load^^^^
For grins I captured some scope traces with my old Yamaha YG6600DE open frame (1999 model). Not beautiful, but good enough for a back-up genset. See below:
View attachment 10895
^^^^ Above is with zero load ^^^^
View attachment 10896
^^^^ Above is with 8 amp load ^^^^
My experience, with mainly car engs, is that you want to build up cyl press as soon as eng is up to temp. Cyl press is needed to seat the rings. Idling too long or running with too small of a load during break-in can glaze the cyl walls and rings won't seat. Champion recommends varying load (up to 1/2 power) and keep RPMs from staying at one speed for too long during break-in. Loading with between 4 and 8 amps should increase RPMs a little. Switching in and out of Eco mode will really make RPMs change.Picked up my Champion 2000W dual fuel inverter generator last week from Tractor Supply. First thing I did was to replace the Torch spark plug with an NGK. Auto Zone matched it up with BPR6HS. Also installed a magnet oil dipstick from Amazon. After a short run of two hours, changed the oil. The dipstick picked up allot of metal particles and the oil looked soupy, that light shade of gray. The oil looked better after running another three hours. And, once again, changed the oil without any particles on the dipstick.
Have only run the generator on propane so far and did take some time and a few magic words for it to start. Only used a light bulb for a small load. 'Tis quieter than some generators of its size. Gonna pick up an NGK Iridium plug and keep it on hand.
Thanks, zz28zz, for the scope traces.
This is true. You'll want the RPM and load all over the place as much as possible, but within limits.My experience, with mainly car engs, is that you want to build up cyl press as soon as eng is up to temp. Cyl press is needed to seat the rings. Idling too long or running with too small of a load during break-in can glaze the cyl walls and rings won't seat. Champion recommends varying load (up to 1/2 power) and keep RPMs from staying at one speed for too long during break-in. Loading with between 4 and 8 amps should increase RPMs a little. Switching in and out of Eco mode will really make RPMs change.