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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Already have a diesel whole-house genset and a gasoline genset as backup. We have propane for heat, water heater and stove top.. Looking for a dual fuel gen to just run 2 refrigerators and a aerobic septic air pump for nights when a/c or heat is not needed. Also like the idea of having a small gen for camping, tailgating, etc.
Looked at Honda and Yamaha 2200w units and they look nice but for what I need, the Champion is looking pretty good. I've read tons of reviews and the only issue I'm seeing is that they can be hard to start on propane. Haven't heard of any issues with build quality and waveform looks great at 1000w. Light weight, long runtime and pretty quiet. Anyone running one of these? Any issues with them?
 

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...the only issue I'm seeing is that they can be hard to start on propane.
It is fairly typical that propane and natural gas can produce some starting issues at times. They just don't ignite as well as gasoline. You have to figure out what procedure works best for starting the gen.

I run NG on my 3KW Champion and have figured out that when the engine is cold, I have to give it half choke. When it is warm, no choke. I do keep a can of starter fluid on hand just in case though.

Using an NGK Iridium plug gapped at .022 will help ignite the propane better than the .030 gapped standard plug. The smaller gap will slightly advance the timing which the gen also likes on propane.
 

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To me, it's quite apparent that propane/NG generators that has a purge/prime button tends to start more easily. Without this button, you will have to rely on the engine vacuum to open up the demand regulator and pull fuel.

And because the regulated fuel supply is typically at low pressures, around less than half a psi, it can take a while for it to reach the combustion chamber. This is exacerbated when you have a long fuel line between the tank and generator. But barring any other issues, it will start... just less likely on the first pull.
 

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Yup. I use the prime button for about 1 second and half choke when the engine is cold (this is after I purge the line of air). Seems to work best on mine that way. But every gen set up will be a little different.
 

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Already have a diesel whole-house genset and a gasoline genset as backup. We have propane for heat, water heater and stove top.. Looking for a dual fuel gen to just run 2 refrigerators and a aerobic septic air pump for nights when a/c or heat is not needed. Also like the idea of having a small gen for camping, tailgating, etc.
Looked at Honda and Yamaha 2200w units and they look nice but for what I need, the Champion is looking pretty good. I've read tons of reviews and the only issue I'm seeing is that they can be hard to start on propane. Haven't heard of any issues with build quality and waveform looks great at 1000w. Light weight, long runtime and pretty quiet. Anyone running one of these? Any issues with them?
we use the honda eu2200i gens here with the trifuel kit.
they work great for us on LP and NG!
pm if you need links!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Champion arrived today. Pulled spark plug (Torch Brand) and poured abt 1/2 teaspoon of 2-stroke pre-mix into plug hole and pulled cord a few times to lubed the cyl wall. Installed the tach/hr-meter. Still waiting on the magnetic dipstick before starting it up for break-in.

Looking at the propane regulator, I don't see a prime button. Is there a way to install one? Can a replacement rear cover with a prime button be installed?
 

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Which champion did you end up going with? I'm going to be replacing my existing 3KW with a lower THD unit because of my new furnace. Recommended by my HVAC installer!
 

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No prime button on that model. Instructions say to initially set the fuel selector to choke and pull the cord a few times to prime it. After that, set the fuel selector back to propane and then pull the cord to start it.
 

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Oops, I just noticed your model is in the subject. Give us an update when you are able to test it out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Saw a few youtube videos of people wearing themselves out attempting to get it primed. Trying to avoid that. Would like to have it start with a pull or two on propane.

There's a boss where the prime button would be but it's not drilled all the way thru. Thinking about removing the rear cover, drilling out the hole (oversized) and installed a machine screw from the inside outwards. Then have a spring and a locknut on the outside. If all went well, I would push (for just a sec or two) the end of the screw to displace the diaphragm and flow gas into the gen. The spring would help ensure the screw retracts when released. Would need a long grip length so it wouldn't get hung-up on the threads. Basically be making a prime button similar to the regulators that come with one. Anyone tried this before?

I'll be sure to report back on performance after break-in.
 

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The mod sounds like a plan. So long as you don't mess with the vacuum and stuff.

But before you break out the drill bits, have you tried spraying a bit of starting fluid to help prime it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Should be OK since the vacuum is on the other side of diaphragm. Main concern is that the priming mod doesn't interfere with diaphragm operation.

Haven't attempted to start it yet. Still waiting on the magnetic dipstick to show up. There's no quick access to air filter. Tools would be needed to prime with starting fluid/gas Would like to have set-up so the wife/kid could start it on propane with little difficulty.
 

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I've got a Champion 2000w dual fuel. It was a bit difficult to start. Don't know where I read it, and don't pretend to understand it. But I read something about cracking open the propane valve very slowly. Then I just let it sit for a minute or two. That procedure has made it a good bit easier to start.

I have not yet bought an iridium plug for it yet. In my initial search there was not an iridium equivalent for my stock plug. Asking about it here, it was suggested that I could use an iridium plug that was a heat range cooler because they make one that would fit. But I have not done it yet.
 

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I think the NGK BPR7HIX 5944 should be the correct Iridium plug. Your unit uses the NGK BPR7HS doesn't it?

NGK_Upgrades.pdf (ngkpartfinder.co.uk)
Thank you for that. But the manual says it takes an NGK BPR5HS. But there is no iridium match for that. It was suggested I go a heat range cooler. So that would take it to a BPR6HS, which would cross to a BPR6HIX.

This is my generator model 200960, and my manual. It's on page 30.

https://www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/200960-om-english.pdf

Funny thing is, I looked at the NGK cross reference you linked to, and I can't even find my stock plug on that chart. I'm sure I saw it before, and saw there was no iridium cross. Then I looked at the Torch number and it's E6RTC. So I thought maybe if I cross reference that. That gave me an NGK BPR6HS.

E6RTC-E6RTC-E6RTC - 1247-CHINESE BRANDS - 1231-NGK - Spark plug cross reference

I wonder if the NGK number in my manual is a misprint. If so, then I'm good with the BPR6HIX. Is the 6 in the Torch number also the heat range? Is the number spark plug heat range standard?
 

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Ah, okay. Since your manual calls for the BPR5HS, then a BPR6HIX should work fine with propane. One step colder! Gap towards the .024 side of the range if primarily running off propane.

The Champion 2000W dual-fuel 100402 model calls for a BPR7HS, but I guess yours is a little different.
100402-om-english.pdf (championpowerequipment.com)

The 6 in the Torch number is the heat range, but heat ranges don't necessarily cross over between brands. So no, the heat range numbers are not standardized.
 

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I wonder if the NGK number in my manual is a misprint. If so, then I'm good with the BPR6HIX. Is the 6 in the Torch number also the heat range? Is the number spark plug heat range standard?
The heat range number is not consistent among different brands. 5 can be hotter then 6 in some brands and colder in others. It’s worth a shot going the step colder with a tight gap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Saw online the references to opening the propane valve slowly a couple of times. One reader thought if the valve was opened too fast the regulator assy would interpret the sudden rapid flow as a leak and shut down the regulator. There was reportedly a click sound associated with the "shutdown" of propane. I haven't seen anything to support that theory yet.

With a brand new unit or after removing the propane hose and re-installing, the line would need to be purged of air (or primed). If the regulator assy bypassed a tiny amount, it would make sense that opening the valve and waiting a few mins before attempting starting would help. This is what prompted me to explore a way to prime the system via regulator mod.

I was looking at NGK Iridium replacement plugs too.

The Champion website owners manuals for a 2000 watt and 2500 watt dual fuel gens says the orig plug is a Torch E6RTC and the replacement is a BPR5HS or equiv.




The cross reference I used said the Torch E6RTC crosses to a NGK BPR6HS.
spark plug cross reference

I went with a NGK BPR6HIX. Should be here tomorrow.
 

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Saw online the references to opening the propane valve slowly a couple of times. One reader thought if the valve was opened too fast the regulator assy would interpret the sudden rapid flow as a leak and shut down the regulator. There was reportedly a click sound associated with the "shutdown" of propane. I haven't seen anything to support that theory yet.

With a brand new unit or after removing the propane hose and re-installing, the line would need to be purged of air (or primed). If the regulator assy bypassed a tiny amount, it would make sense that opening the valve and waiting a few mins before attempting starting would help. This is what prompted me to explore a way to prime the system via regulator mod.

I was looking at NGK Iridium replacement plugs too.

The Champion website owners manuals for a 2000 watt and 2500 watt dual fuel gens says the orig plug is a Torch E6RTC and the replacement is a BPR5HS or equiv.




The cross reference I used said the Torch E6RTC crosses to a NGK BPR6HS.
spark plug cross reference

I went with a NGK BPR6HIX. Should be here tomorrow.
That was my thinking too. You'll have your plug before me. I hope you'll let me (us) know if that helps. I'll be trying to get one soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got my magnetic dipstick today and started the break-in procedure.

Initial start-up on propane was unsuccessful. Followed the following sequence:
Open propane tank valve very slowly.
Waited abt 5 mins.
Set to Choke and pulled rope six times but no sign of life.
Switched to Run (propane), a few more pulls, nothing.

Went thru choke/run sequence 3 more times, but nothing. Probably abt 30 rope pulls all together.

Disconnected hose from gen and smelled it. No propane smell at all.
Disconnected regulator from propane tank. Expected a pressure release sound but didn't hear (or smell) anything.

Re-installed the regulator and this time tightened it a bit more. This time I heard a "click" sound when propane tank valve was opened. Assuming regulator wasn't tight enough to depress the quick disconnect valve inside the propane tank valve. Set to Choke again and got a sign of life on the 3rd pull. Switched to Run (propane) and it started on first pull.

I used two 500 watt work lights for the load. Alternated between no load, 500W load and a 1000W load. Also switched between Eco mode and regular mode numerous times. After the first 30 mins, unloaded for a few mins to cool and shutdown to check oil. Magnetic dipstick had only a tiny amount of black metallic powder and oil level was unchanged.

Started it back up and ran another 60 mins under various loads but never over 1000 watts. Pulled dipstick and it still looks great. I was expecting a bit more shavings from a new eng but very happy with what I'm seeing so far.

Tachometer I installed was set for single-cyl 4-stroke but was reading what I believe to be twice as high as it should. (9600 rpm with Eco mode off). Switched to single-cyl 2-stroke setting assuming the ign fires on exh stroke also. Seems to be working correctly now. With no load and Eco mode on, eng speed was 3800 RPM. With Eco mode off (and no load) seeing 4800 RPM.

Other observations:
In Eco mode, with 500W load applied, eng speed remained at 3800 RPM. When an additional 500W load was applied, eng speed increased a little to 3940 RPM.
Voltage with no load was 122V. At a 500W load, measured 121.5V, and with a 1000W load voltage dropped to 121V.
If the trend continues, should be at 120V at full load.
Exhaust temp with 500W load wasn't bad at all. I could hold my hand over the exhaust at that power level.
Inverter/eng cooling air is drawn in from front end and discharged out the exhaust end. This blends the exhaust gas with the cooling air making overall discharge temps stay pretty low. Not much chance of catching anything on fire at least at 1/4 load.
Original Torch plug was found gap'ed to .022" and seems to be working fine. Got my NGK platinum as a back-up.

My idea of modifying the propane regulator to provide a Prime button isn't looking very good. After the plastic cover is installed on the regulator, there's no access to where the prime button would be. Drilling a hole in the plastic isn't feasible since the Prime button would be directly under the pivot for the large clip. The plastic cover incorporates a large clip to attach regulator to carry handle (for stowage) and has a place to hold the hose and keep it off the ground. It can be removed but it's pretty handy so I'll probably leave it on.

Feeling pretty good about things over-all.
I'll try to get back on it tomorrow and get some scope pics of the sine wave if time permits.
 
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