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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to get some more opinions about my generator issue. I have the fuel injected ESi7000. It is not getting fuel for some reason. When I turn the key to the on position to start it i get roughly 9.5v at the plug. When I turn over the motor to start it, it will pulse one time, shooting a little fuel and then will not do anything upon continuing to turn over the motor. I know that the injector is good. I know the generator will run, I have sprayed a little carb cleaner in the injector port and it will stay running. When its turning over I am getting 8.5 to 8.7v roughly at the plug. I want to say it might be the pick up on the crank, but it will stay running with cleaner. I'm leaning towards ECU but I am not sure if there is a way I can test it or not. Possibly test light to injector to see if it pulses, or where the signal comes in? Any input would be appriciated. I have looked into getting new ECU but of course they are on back order and no expected date to be in stock.

Thank you all!
 

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try a new larger battery first and check the big battery connections.
efi takes a lot of power to make it fire right. most are at 10 amps plus the computer draw for 15 to 20 amps of draw.
the little batteries have a hard time keeping up for sure.
also check the battery charger ckt to make sure it is supplying enough to charge the battery when running.

ok efi is pwm so it is not hard voltage. they ramp up and down the voltage and the current.
so you can have a bad injector that is high ohms or even that is shorted inside from over heating.
then there can be the issue of a bad solder joint inside the injection driver pack (computer)
pm if you need help on efi testing equipment.
there are special test devices used for checking as well as for tricking the injectors to operate for cleaning them.

see if there are any mfg part numbers on the injector.
some are using universal injectors.
some are just made just for the injection system for that gen set.

you could have a bad temp sensor or a bad o2 sensor causing the exact issue you have.
does lifan have a tech tool for the dealers to see the efi computer?
there is a push for open source can buss for all efi systems.
then you could use a lap top or blue tooth connection to see the exact state on all sensors.
nice to see that as a tech for sure.
 

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Cant hurt to try a jump pack on the battery as a first step. A noid light on the injector connector is a good second. Does the ECU/GCU have the ability to provide fault codes?
 

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or use a volt meter on the battery connections.
most of those do not have a readout on the computer as they stand.
but they have a factory or service center test point.

oh yea if you can find the service manual for the gen set they should have
testing for the sensors.
as well as the ohms for the injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll try a different battery to see. I have a small car battery I can use to power it to test it out. I can't check out battery charging side until I can get it running. I have a brand new injector I tried and it did not fire either. It did the same thing, just pulsed once then stopped.
If it was a temp/O2 I don't think it would run at all, even spraying a fuel source into the throat of the carb. I have also disconnected the low oil switch just to see but nothing happened, still no run condition.
I'm not sure if they have a scanner. I will have to see but I highly doubt it.
I'm going to check on a service manual too.

I'll keep you updated.

Thank you!
 

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We haven’t been provided with how many hours that there are on the unit. If it has hundreds of hours yep it could be a mechanical issue. But…if age but low hours?….. battery issue. Start with the simple stuff first. Make it a habit to keep the new battery on a tender when not in use.
 

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I'll try a different battery to see. I have a small car battery I can use to power it to test it out. I can't check out battery charging side until I can get it running. I have a brand new injector I tried and it did not fire either. It did the same thing, just pulsed once then stopped.
If it was a temp/O2 I don't think it would run at all, even spraying a fuel source into the throat of the carb. I have also disconnected the low oil switch just to see but nothing happened, still no run condition.
I'm not sure if they have a scanner. I will have to see but I highly doubt it.
I'm going to check on a service manual too.

I'll keep you updated.

Thank you!
it all depends on the auto shut down sequence in the computer.
part of the design.
some have a health check after 2-3 min of run.
some do the oil level sense right a way, and oil quality as delay.
same on power quality check, they wait for warm up on the gen set first.
then the health check.

and yes on the noid light inline with the injector
they will give you an idea if the injector has a pulse voltage.
and you need an inline current meter to watch at the same time.
most of these are 5-10 amps of current to fire the injector.

also run an inline high pressure fuel gauge on the injector fuel feed to verify that the FI fuel pump is on all of the time when they key is forward.
you need a min pressure of 45 to 90 psi for the injection to work right.

you could have a bad fuel pump! or fuel pump wiring!
and yes you can by pass the fuel pump wiring to direct to battery for test. just watch the polarity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The unit only has 6 hours on it.
I’m planning on testing the battery and other things later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Its not getting a signal to the injector. I put a jumper wire from the ground to the ground of the injector and it fired over. I held it on for a sec then took it off and back on and I could keep it running, roughly but it was running. SO, its down to the ECU or the trigger, which Im going to guess it is. How would I test for the crank trigger? Just ohm it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Checked ohms at the crank signal. It’s showing 122 ohm resistance. So I’m assuming it’s good because if it was bad it would be 0ohms, also did continuity test between the terminals and no continuity.
 

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No continuity and some resistance is a good start. Next is to check for ac volts while cranking. If you get voltage it’s likely OK. A shop manual would be a game changer right about now...

It’s odd that the ecu would pulse voltage instead of ground to fire the injector. ECU could be the issue. I’m sure most parts for this thing will be hard to find.

Your luckiest bet right now is a bad connection at one of the connectors. I like to call it exercising the connections. Remove and reinstall a couple times a given connector and see if anything changes.

At 6 hours it’d be surprising but going deeper... Look for any sign of corrosion on the connector or component terminals. Take a good look at the backside of the connectors as well. Any exposed copper between the insulation and terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got to speak with Paul from the forums. He is also helping me go in the right direction. I need to get another meter though. I have a cheap one and it won't read down to what I need it to. I would suggest to others to spend a few extra dollars to get a good one once then you won't have to buy another one. All the plugs look and feel ok. I have taken them all apart and reconnected them a few times but to no avail. IF it was the ECU, its on backorder so you all know how that goes. Thank you again Paul for the conversation and all the helpful information. I hope to put this to bed soon.
 
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