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Discussion Starter #1
About to reassemble my backup Powermate 4000. Here is the wiring in the Endbell, and the connector coming from the rest of the generator. Is this a bonded neutral? Do I want to unbond it and convert to floating neutral? Thanks!
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no
nothing in that picture is the bonding to the frame for neutral.
that all is just power for the slip ring assy.
rotor diodes etc.

snap a better set of pix of the stator wires.
hint your neutral bond might be at the outlets panel for the gen set.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Paul. I bought a replacement set of brushes back in 2009. And totally uncharacteristic of myself, I still know where they are. I'm putting those in and the new capacitor, and changing out that needle bearing on the end of the shaft. IF it drifts out easily. That endbell is plastic (I think). I don't want to hit on it too hard. Even have some bearing lock around here that I bought back in the Old Testament. This thing worked when I took it apart. Hopefully it will when I get it back together.
 

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clean up the needle bearings good...
diesel works for that.
and air wand clean.
use ultra refined chrome moly grease...
expensive in the ultra high grade versions of the grease..
it is like 28 bucks for 2 oz.
but it works real good on stuff like this!!
i did some roller bearings back in 2008 with needle bearings on a fan motor.
that fan runs 7/24 for 8 months out of the year.
that grease is the stuff!!

try fine sand paper on the brushes to refresh them...
if the burned spots are not too deep.

that hot spot is a sign of over load on the brushes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
New brushes installed, bearing cleaned and reinstalled with Loctite 609. All fasteners secured with blue Loctite. I've got some Lubriplate grease in a can around here somewhere that was made for needle bearings, and some OMC Quicksilver purple Triple-Guard Grease that is spec'd for the larger needle and roller bearings found in their lower units. And, there is three types of boat trailer wheel bearing grease and two types of wheel bearing grease. I'm going to go with one of those seven, most probably the Lubriplate or the OMC. Neither have let me down yet.

Soon as I get it running and determine it is okay I'm going to do a de-carbon treatment and then change the oil again. Hope I don't have to pull the carb. I always ran it dry. Replacing the fuel line and filter too, and air filter. Then hopefully, I never need it as a backup.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, pictures of the backside of the outlets panel. See anything that looks like a bonded neutral in there?
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snap a pix of the front side of that panel.
the bond could be hidden in the sockets...

ohm meter time for sure
click here for the test equipment page

hint there are some green wires on the right hand side of the pix.
look for a white wire going to the frame, panel or chassis..
or a bond brass strip between the chassis mount and the place where the white wires connect.

so the stator wires do they run direct to this front panel?
do you have pix of the end cap stator wires to the harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is the front of the receptacle box as requested. Question: The first and third pictures in this thread. The first: The metal bar between the two electrodes where the two yellow wires connect on either side. What is that and what is its purpose? The third pic: The same two yellow wires that plug into the plug on the first pic. The two yellow wires appear to be coming out of the stator, and plug into the two yellow wires in the plug in picture one. What is going on here with connecting the two yellow wires across a piece of metal like that? Is that metal piece
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some form of fusible link?
 

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So, what is the actual model number? Maybe PM454002? Should be a silver label on the generator head with loads of info. With the actual model number we may be able to find the wiring diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Actually that information was on neither the generator head nor the frame. For whatever reason COleman chose to put it on the Briggs and Stratton engine! Here it is:
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