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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all, I'm about finished with my generator project and one of my hangups is the ignition switch wiring. I cheaped out and bought an off brand key switch, so all of the wires are different colors. I'm hoping somebody here could help me figure out the correct wiring on this thing. The engine is a Honda GX630 natural gas engine. There are 4 wires coming out of the motor, two for the charge coil and two for the ignition coil. It has a 2.7 amp rectifier. The two charge coil wires and one ignition coil wire plug into the three connectors on the rectifier, leaving one ignition coil wire open, which would go to the key switch.

I have a good idea of which wires go where, which is:

White - starter
Black / White - starter solenoid
Black - ignition coil
Black / white spliced from black - oil pressure switch

There's also a buss that has two accessory wires. There's a white wire for power and a black wire for ground from the key switch, which splices into a ground that goes to a ground screw.

Assuming I have the other wires identified correctly, I can't figure out what the blue wire is for. Anyone have a clue?

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Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Not sure what I was looking at. Could be the lack of sleep with a newborn and sick two year old, but:

Do both ignition coils normally plug into the key switch, or just one?

I’m thinking there’s a white wire missing that would go from rectifier to battery on the key switch, or the white wire going to the buss should be going to the rectifier instead.That would leave the blue wire remaining with no obvious oil pressure switch wire.

im obviously a little confused here…
 

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Thanks Orly, where are you seeing that blue is marked for ignition?
My bad, got mixed up the Bl (Black) and Bu (Blue).

The only blue wire (Bu) I see comes from the hour meter going to one of the ignition coil (the right coil, as per the diagram).

I'll do some more research on this and get back to you if I find anything useful.
 

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Here's what I would do, map out the terminals on the switch (they're numbered) and match it against the combination switch table in the schematic below (upper left corner). Find out where each poles are then you can figure out where each terminal should be going to the engine.

With the switch in the ON position, Pole 1 should be bridging IGN and GND, while Pole 2 is bridging BAT and LO. When the switch is set to "START", Pole 1 stays the same but Pole 2 should have BAT, LO and ST bridged.

When the switch is set to OFF, the terminals should have no continuity.

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Orly, I can't thank you enough for the help. It sounds like from your comment the stations of the wires on the key switch may indicate something as to what they are for? My only familiarity of these key switches is from the vanguard engine on my old mudboat, but the wire stations on the back of the key switch were much different.

The wire colors are all different from the normal diagram since it's a knock off. That diagram is the best one I've seen so far, even considering the technical manual. From the diagram you posted LO goes straight to power the fuel solenoid with the key on, which would seem to be the blue wire for me. The Technical manual for the motor shows two IGN wires and a dedicated IGN wire going directly to the low oil switch. My motor only has two IGN wires from the coils, with no oil switch wire, and a different oil cut off switch than what the manual shows, even though it's the same premise (I have a low pressure switch, the manual shows a low level switch.

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Forgive my ignorance, but I'm learning here. I'm mechanically inclined but wiring and electronics has always been a weak point for me that I struggled to understand.

Do the two coil wires consist of a positive and ground, and if so, the ground would need to connect to a kill switch of some sort to ground the coils in a kill situation, no? If that's the case, then blue to IGN positive, black to IGN ground, and black/white to oil pressure switch makes sense to me.

I'm going to pull the cover off of the engine and trace the wires in my harnesses. There is no wire connected to the oil pressure switch currently.
 

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TL;DR: Based on the schematic, the wires from the two ignition coils are as follows:

Yellow - Low-oil kill wire. When this wire sees ground (oil level switch is closed), the engine shuts off.
Black - I interpret this to be the "Enable" wire, for lack of a better term. When battery voltage is applied (ie. when the ignition switch is set to ON or Start), the ignition coil is "live". Removing +12V from this wire and it should stop the engine.

If I understand correctly, there should be a minimum of two wires going to each ignition coil. The Yellow wire goes to the oil level switch, which I believe would kill the engine when the Yellow wire sees Ground.

The Black wire from the ignition coils on the other hand, seems to go against convention. On most other small engines, the black wire from the ignition coil is the kill wire.... ground it and the ignition stops producing spark. But in the case of the GX630, the Black wire seems to need the 12V from the battery whenever the ignition switch is set to ON or Start to make it operational.

You're off to a good start by tracing where each individual wire is going. Use the schematic as a guide and make notes wherever appropriate. Re-check your work a 2nd and 3rd time before attempting to fire it up.

It does surprise me that the low-oil switch is disconnected. Does that mean that this engine has been worked on before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
that is what’s causing more confusion. The wires from the coils are red and black. I bought it as a brand new engine. The manual that came with the engine and all schems I’ve seen are for the gasoline version of the engine and don’t match this NG version exactly.

Im curious to see if there’s an oil kill switch connection on the coil harness somewhere under the cowl that would provide a little clarity.
Thanks again for the help.
 

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Would you happen to have any model information about the generator? Engine?

I mean, specific SKUs. The "GX630" model is the base. If Honda (or a 3rd party) made any customizations to that unit, it may have a new designation, a suffix or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not sure where you found that but I’ve searched high and low and have struggled to find any documentation specific to this motor. That’s the first I see of anything regarding the valve control unit.
 

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Not sure where you found that but I’ve searched high and low and have struggled to find any documentation specific to this motor. That’s the first I see of anything regarding the valve control unit.
I presume you've found the valve control unit on your engine? So that being a dry gas model, it would explain the wiring differences from the gasoline fuel versions.

If I were to hazard a guess, the switch on the left corresponds to the BAT and LO terminals on the combination switch.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes sir, I'm not utilizing the valve control unit because I'm using a Garretson KN demand regulator instead of a solenoid powered demand regulator.

When I remove d the cowl I traced the coil wires, and the black wire goes to both coils, but the red wire only goes to one coil. From the wiring diagram it seems that my red wire would be the blue wire going only from the one coil to the hour meter, so that wire can be left terminated and unused in my application. I connected black to the IGN black wire, and black/white to the oil pressure switch, leaving the blue wire terminated. I unsnapped the sparkplug wire and could hear it ticking when I turned the motor over. Unfortunately I think I fried the rectifier because I hooked the batt wire on that up to the wrong **** wire. I believe the wire it should hook up to is coming from the buss, which is connected to a white batt wire jumped off of the batt terminal on the key switch.

Thank you for the help Orly! I didn't get a chance to confirm beyond what I did above yet but I'll do that this evening.
 
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