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Discussion Starter #21
Oh then that is probably the issue. If it dont have the strength to recoil then that's it. Its never a waste of time going through issues like these as long as you learn how and what makes it function (at least that is what I tell myself, so I dont launch what I'm working on across the room) lol
Yes, it's been a challenge..."launch across the room" I can relate to and "you can't keep doing the same thing and expect a different outcome."

I looked at that recoil spring at least 3 times before I removed the wrapper...kept thinking, this thing can't be the same as the one that came off. Oh well, part of the "School of hard knocks."
 

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Yes, it's been a challenge..."launch across the room" I can relate to and "you can't keep doing the same thing and expect a different outcome."

I looked at that recoil spring at least 3 times before I removed the wrapper...kept thinking, this thing can't be the same as the one that came off. Oh well, part of the "School of hard knocks."
Ahhh it goes in the parts bin with a couple of zip ties on it. May come in handy in the future for a weed wacker or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
That's a good way to utilize them...my parts bin need rethinking so I can find them later.
 

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That's a good way to utilize them...my parts bin need rethinking so I can find them later.
I now use the larger binned Stanley and dewalt boxes, screws primer bulbs, bar nuts, carb kits, gaskets. It made life so much easier, especially when tour like me and have a part for everything
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Good idea...I need to try that...I spend so much time looking for parts and tools that I have and by the time I locate them, I'm pretty much wiped out.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Saw will run now but new carb. needs fine tuning. It will pull down when wide open.
Read about how to tune but didn't completely understand the plastic cover over L & H adjusting screws. Can they be removed and discarded or are they essential?
CC all the way then open 1 1/2 & same for H and then idle is set to where the chain just barely moves along the bar.

Also, after receiving new recoil starter spring (which was stronger) still couldn't torque center screw to 2-3 FT. Lbs.
So wound up finding the sweet spot where it (center shoulder screw) would allow rope to recoil.
Coated the screw with blue thread locker and tighten to the"sweet spot," and let it sit over 24 hrs. to fully cure. So far so good.
 

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Saw will run now but new carb. needs fine tuning. It will pull down when wide open.
Read about how to tune but didn't completely understand the plastic cover over L & H adjusting screws. Can they be removed and discarded or are they essential?
CC all the way then open 1 1/2 & same for H and then idle is set to where the chain just barely moves along the bar.

Also, after receiving new recoil starter spring (which was stronger) still couldn't torque center screw to 2-3 FT. Lbs.
So wound up finding the sweet spot where it (center shoulder screw) would allow rope to recoil.
Coated the screw with blue thread locker and tighten to the"sweet spot," and let it sit over 24 hrs. to fully cure. So far so good.
The plastic limiters are an EPA nonsense thing. YES remove them, by screwing a screw into the tip and pulling them off. Close them all the way till they just stop DONT over tighten them just seat them and turn out 1 1/2 turns. Set the Low screw so you get a good throttle response with out the chain turning because then you are leaning it out.
Now the (H) high screw you have to hold throttle wide open and turn out until you here the engine starts gurgling and turn in just till it cleans up a bit. I tune mine "in the cut" meaning im tuning in under load as I cut a round of wood. That is the best because it will be gurgling a bit without load and clean up under load. The objective here is NOT to get the highest wide open RPM because you dont want to.lean it out and toast your P&C
 

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Okay...what about the idle screw, just set till it idles w/o dying?
So when you do the L screw start at 1 1/2 turns out and see how it starts and is idling, if idling high open the Lscrew until you bring it down and still have a snappy response when blurping the throttle. Usually the idle screw is pretty good out of the box but may need a tiny bit of adjustment in the end. When all done then move onto the H screw and follow what I said earlier. LISTEN to the engine. SMALL adjustments at a time. Richer is BETTER then leaner ( hence the plastic epa limiters)
 

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What JohnNY explains might sound complicated but is actually simple.
If you're having trouble visualizing then do a Google or YouTube search; there's gotta be a plethora of short videos showing this procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I think the L is adjusted, chain not moving but seems a little too high of an idle. Good response when I hit the throttle tho.

The H side...a little cumbersome for me to hold the saw during a cut and adjust the screw (even finding the right angle in adjustment hole) so, don't think I have that adjusted right yet.

Have looked at many YT's during this project...but like the idea of doing it the way JohnNY does it.
 

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As for the L adjustment, once throttle response feels snappy & crisp you can then adjust the idle screw to lower the idle. However if the clutch isn't engaging then it should be ok.

The final H adjustment is best done in the cut. that can be difficult but you can get it close by making a cut then small tweaks withengineon theground, and etc.,... until the engine sound cleans-up *only when wide open throttle in the cut and working hardest. That's when it's optimized.

But really, as JohnNY says, if in doubt you just need to make sure it's not running lean - if in doubt then error on the side of being rich and it will likely be running good enough.

Hope some of that makes sense. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks Melson for the information....at this moment, I had to talk myself out of slinging it as far as I could.
I've been working on the carb. adjustment and it will stabilize, then it'll speed back up. Well, I figure, the plug is fowled
now, remove and sure enough it wreaks of fuel. This sequence went on for 4 to 5 repetitions, ran through I complete tank of fuel.

It vibrates so much, I can't tell if the screwdriver is in the adjusting screw or not. Couldn't tell if the screw was turning or not and on the last time, wound up turning the L completely off. So I open it up 1 1/2 and pull cord comes out but wont go back in.

After that I said that's it...so I'm just feed up with it.

I greatly appreciate all of the input I've received from this forum.

All the best,
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Apologies and update...couldn't follow through with my "in the moment" frustration and, taking into account all the help and effort that has gone in from this site to help me, I wasn't going to disrespect that.

Recoil spring was the problem with the starter rope retraction, had one layer, of the 8 wraps, that wasn't flushing out with the rest of the spring. I had ordered a new one and since, put it in and the rope retracts fine and I can torq to 2-3 ft lbs without any problem. (no more blue thread locker)

Will try and get the carb working tomorrow...removed the plastic EPA caps but had trouble getting the L & H responding as it should. Replaced the fuel line today, because the new line I bought was smaller, so when filling tank, the inlet passage from carb. to tank was poring out fuel.

So I am sorry and this has been on mind almost every waking hour. (my last post) I can get overwhelmed sometimes but that is no excuse.

Sincerely, Charles
 

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No apologies necessary; we can all relate to the frustration of dealing with something like this.
When making carb jet adjustments... small 1/16th turns at a time. Remember that you're working with tiny orifices and takes little to make a large change.
Sometimes you need to start over by resetting the jet adjust screws back to the initial starting point.
That model Husqvarna is a decent lightweight saw and should be worth the effort.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
My saw is up and running...carb. tune took me awhile but believe it is close and did some cutting today.

If it hadn't been so humid outside, I could have done more. Couldn't have fixed the saw without the help and encouragement of JohnNY and Melson.

Thanks to both of you!
 
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