[PiscBc2]

Having trouble getting my starter set up working
I've replaced rewind spring and rope.

This model has the wrap around spring, then cassette holder for same, followed by a plastic housing that catches rewind spring and houses starter rope, then another spring that sits in this housing, followed by the plastic pawl that engages the F Wheel and then a screw that holds the pawl to the plastic housing (that catches rewind spring.)

I can get the rope to recoil, if I don't tighten the screw that holds the pawl to the plastic housing, snug. (while separated from saw)
If I tighten snug, the rope wont pull out but if I loosen a little, the rope will recoil. (separate from the saw)
But, when I attach to FW, it still wont recoil and the rope is left dangling.

I've tried different number of revolutions for the spring, the most 8 and the least 3.5. Makes no difference.

Bought same diameter rope and correct rewind spring.

I would just take it to a shop but I have too many hours trying to figure out why it wont recoil.

 

[JohnNY]

It sounds like.you do not have the rope coil all the way seated in the cover. And thats whtly the screw is tightening against the wheel and the wheel is being pressed against the flywheel upon reassembly

 

[PiscBc2]

Thank you for the reply.
I think I follow you...when I install the rope coil, I have to rotate it so the eye of the coiled spring is caught by it.

I'm pretty sure that is what is happening because it has to drop in and grab the eye of the spring.
I'll check it again...so is the coiled spring wrapped CW or CCW?

 

[JohnNY]

Thank you for the reply.
I think I follow you...when I install the rope coil, I have to rotate it so the eye of the coiled spring is caught by it.

I'm pretty sure that is what is happening because it has to drop in and grab the eye of the spring.
I'll check it again...so is the coiled spring wrapped CW or CCW?

It depends on how you look at it. Lol. They are a pain in the a$$. I could do them with my eyes closed if it were in my hand but hard to say when im doing it on text. But basically after you have it all sat in the screw should bottom out on its stem and not pinch the wheel

 

[JohnNY]

You didnt pull the coil spring out did you?

 

[PiscBc2]

Yes, had to replace it and the rope. Coil spring broke so had to buy a new one.

 

[JohnNY]

****, you could of purchased an entire assembly probably for cheaper then you paid for just the spring. Im going to.look at a service manual for this saw and get back to you. I will also post a copy of it here for you to reference in the future, if you ever need it. (Hopefully not)

 

[JohnNY]

Heres the work shop manual that covers the 345. The E seies is just for the chain adjustment
View attachment 7793

 

[PiscBc2]

The spring was 14.00; new carb 13.00: new ignition 15.00; rope .75 cents: I looked at several options and didn't want to pay more for parts than a new saw would cost. Had this one, new since 05. Right out of the box, it leaked fuel when on its side...not heavily, just enough to annoy you.

Where do you buy parts for your saws? Thank you for all your help.

 

[JohnNY]

Well thankfully you bought a Husqvarna, oem as well as aftermarket parts are easily obtainable by any means. Unlike Stihl who has their market locked down like Apple and parts are only available through dealers and there is limited aftermarket parts available. I shop for my parts at of course whom ever has the best deal, but my main suppliers are

Chainsaw Parts - Chainsaws

www.baileysonline.com

Chainsaw Parts for Stihl, Husqvarna, Jonsered, Homelite, Poulan etc

Chainsaw parts at HL Supply - your source for great selection and prices on chainsaw parts for Stihl, Husqvarna, Homelite, Poulan, Jonsered, and more! Shop now!

www.hlsproparts.com

Chainsaw Parts : eReplacementParts.com

Need to fix your Chainsaw? We have parts, diagrams, accessories and repair advice to help make your tool repairs easy.

www.ereplacementparts.com

.

Also look on fleabay.

 

[Melson]

There's also a small shop in Vermont- chainsawr.com - that has lots of used parts. Take a look there.

Want to give a thumbs-up to JonhNY for his visualization and explanation of the starter mech, which is a tricky little thing to do from scratch. At least it was for me when I let the spring from my 272 fly across the room. Ohy...

 

[PiscBc2]

Okay, glad it's not a Stihl because of parts situation...Thanks for the part links and the service manual PDF,
very helpful and hope to get it together today.

Thanks Melson for the name of the used parts in in Vermont- chainsawr.com and dittos on your thumbs up
to JonhNY for his visualization and explanation of the starter mechanism.

 

[JohnNY]

@PiscBc2 Here is another link to a great resource for chainsaws and the listing for the IPL's (individual parts list) for you model saw, just pick the one that covers your year the closest.

Husqvarna 345 Chainsaw Parts Lists

 

[PiscBc2]

Okay thanks...the best result I achieved today was after putting the side cover back on, the rope retracted 3 times and on the 4th it wouldn't retract.

In order to get this result, I had to back off the the center screw/bolt a lot...couldn't figure out what 2-3 Nm is.
Tried to cross reference Nm with torq/foot lbs with no success because that is what that particular center screw/bolt is suppose to be tightened to. It must be pretty slight or I have some other behind the scenes going on. Following the checklist guidelines, I believe all is well with what was listed.

I will look at the source you provided and Thanks again.

 

[PiscBc2]

Checked the parts I bought from the parts list you sent and I have the wrong coiled spring for my model.
I thought it looked a little "light" when I removed it from its wrapper.

 

[JohnNY]

Okay thanks...the best result I achieved today was after putting the side cover back on, the rope retracted 3 times and on the 4th it wouldn't retract.

In order to get this result, I had to back off the the center screw/bolt a lot...couldn't figure out what 2-3 Nm is.
Tried to cross reference Nm with torq/foot lbs with no success because that is what that particular center screw/bolt is suppose to be tightened to. It must be pretty slight or I have some other behind the scenes going on. Following the checklist guidelines, I believe all is well with what was listed.

I will look at the source you provided and Thanks again.

When I do these, put on the appropiate amount of rope, wind up the spool to create spring tension 2-3 turns and while holding the tension on the spring, guide the rope out the hole and tie the handle off , then make sure all is seated. Tighten the screw and back off 1/8 of a turn and check its function. I've had an echo 330T that I just could not get to function properly either for the life of me. Look for burrs or chafing in the plastics that will cause binding also. Put a little lithium grease on the spindle also.

 

[PiscBc2]

Okay, I may have done it like that but I've done so many different combination but, more than likely not exactly like you described. I'll make sure that is the way I do it. Thanks

Did you see my post about buying the wrong starter recoil spring?

 

[JohnNY]

Checked the parts I bought from the parts list you sent and I have the wrong coiled spring for my model.
I thought it looked a little "light" when I removed it from its wrapper.

Oh then that is probably the issue. If it dont have the strength to recoil then that's it. Its never a waste of time going through issues like these as long as you learn how and what makes it function (at least that is what I tell myself, so I dont launch what I'm working on across the room) lol

 

[Melson]

Sometimes it the obvious things that trip us up. Glad you found the problem.
BTW, 3 Nm is 2.21 ft.lbs.

 

[PiscBc2]

Thanks Melson...had never heard of Nm, except for computer jargon.