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How to find and install a master cutoff switch for my master panel

3K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  iowagold 
#1 ·
I am a homeowner who will be using a licensed electrician to do the followig work, co-ordinate with electric service provider, and get permits, when the time comes. Right now, I am trying to cost out alternatives.

I have an 26 year old 200A GE main breaker box (photo 1) with no main cut off switch (which is not up to code, but was when it was installed. Leaving that to my electrician). The meter is immediately to the right side of this box.
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Alternative (1) buy a new 200A cutoff, have it installed along with an interlock. Second alternative to be discussed later. Electronic engineering Electrical wiring Electricity Gas Electronic component


The knockout in the safety panel is vertical, and is for a screw on (not push-in) breaker switch. I believe the correct part # to be TQD22200X2 taken from the label in the box (photo 2). If I have taken the wrong part #, pls advise.

From the info given, does this switch appear to be the correct one?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-1-in-Main-Breaker-Kit/50253107

My concern is that the link doesn't mention the part #, but came up with part # as search term and looks to me approximately the right one. But as a layman, would like someone knowledgeable to confirm please. Advance thanks


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Discussion starter · #3 ·
snap another picture with a wider view to show all of the electrical going on at that location.
they show the exact 200 amp breaker to use with this panel.
you will also need a set of ground stakes as well.
depending on your location and how damp the soil is.
we use a rule here of 50 amps per stake or 4 ground stakes driven in a row by this panel
and a min of 2 gauge copper from the ground stakes to a ground stake buss bar on the side of the house then
a 1/0 copper up to the breaker panel for the ground.

i would also add a whole house surge protection as well.
you will need some fancy breakers or just set a new 40 space panel
that will use the old breakers.
the heck of it is some times with the sales you can get the whole panel kit for the price
of a main breaker and a couple of other breakers.

that would leave you extra room to do a few things as well.
Paul, thanks for yours. The 200A box is grounded now, so why new stakes? Not arguing, just want to learn.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Here is a photo of the area of the main panel.

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You can see the existing circuits in this panel (bottom right "GFI..." is no longer used and will be removed, and upper left (irrigation)) are the only 120V. For info, unlabeled bottom left is cooktop. So we are talking about moving 8 circuits to the new panel, and adding one for the interlock.
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so replacing this with a new GE panel with single cutoff will run about $175 +/- for the box, plus cost of interlock ($75 +/-), and labor. Anyone hazard a guess as to the "direct" (i.e., not including getting permit) hours involved?

P.S. How do I just post a thumbnail only and not a full image?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Original box was within the rule of 6 which was the rule here in 1994. As stated in the OP, we are not compliant at this moment, but the electricain will bring us in. Photo of the interior also in the OP
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
MAYBE found the main cutoff switch! The part # on the label inside the breaker box cover is TQD22200X2, which I gave to the electrical parts supply house. They said they have it, so I bought it, but upon closer examination the part # on the switch is TQD22200. Is the X2 important, and the switch I got
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different from the one I need?

Reason for asking is that it looks like it will fit in the space, but also looks like maybe the location of the (single) mounting screw will put it slightly off center so that the breaker toggle might not fit into the knockout opening. There is no way for me to find out other than having the electricity turned off and the existing two main black wires removed from their lugs, the lugs removed and the switch mounted with the existing screw, removing out the knockout plate from the safety cover, and seeing if the safety cover will go on with the cutoff in the right place.

I am attaching closeup photos of the area in question and the cutoff for your convenience.

Any thoughts you have will be most welcome.
 
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