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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just got my 1987 (first ver) EX1000 back from by sons house where it's sat (with sour gas in it) for the last 22 years unused. Yeah, dumb. Shame because it looks literally new and of course it wouldn't start. Before I "loaned it" to him it maybe had 25hrs run time on it, he used it barely 5 hrs and then it sat unused. I've worked on Motorcycles all my life, Honda's to Harley's and you name it Brits of the 50's - 70's. Gen's not.

So I immediately drained the gas (it was orange), tank looked clean in the bottom when I swabbed it with a rag, drained the oil which still looked decent. Pulled off the Carb and cleaned the heck out of it with Carb Spray. I cannot get the main jet out, it's frozen and won't turn, I've torn a bit of the brass blade slot trying to turn it out. Question 1) Any thoughts on getting it out?? I've never had this problem with a motorcycle jet, even on the oldest Brit bikes I've restored.

So I tried to clean the Carb the best I could using Carb Cleaner and my air compressor. Bought a new Air Filter (shocked, local big Honda motorcycle dealership had one!) Cleaned the NGK spark plug which still new, now it looks new. Filled the oil tank with 400ML of Quaker 10W40 HD, added just enough new fresh 86 Regular Octane Gas to move the fuel indicator.

First pull nothing, turned on the choke, second pull sputtered and third (and everyone after) it's starts strong for about 1 - 2 seconds and dies. Tried adjusting the Pilot screw both directions and no results. Question 2) actually the Main Question, why is it stalling? I would diagnose fuel starvation, but where? I was looking at the fuel line to the Carb ... it appears to run to the front of the generator instead of straight up to the Fuel Tank which is directly above the Carburetor and from there I can't see where it goes. Does the "ON /OFF" switch actually act as just a Fuel Cutoff only? If it does, has there been a history of old fuel "gumming up" that switch?
Otherwise, I'm at a loss why and where the fuel starvation if that is the issue.

Thanks for any and all service advice.

7917
 

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It definitely sounds like fuel starvation. I assume you've confirmed that the float bowl is completely filling with fuel. If so, then the fuel cutoff, if any, is not clogged. That doesn't leave much but clogged jets and fuel passages into the venturi of the carburetor.

You've got to get that jet out to clean it and all the fuel passages. Since you've worked on motorcycles all your life, you've likely used a hammer type impact driver. That could be the key to getting that stuck jet out.

Failing that, you're screwed. You could try running a fine piece of steel wire through the jet orifice, and maybe using some compressed air through the jets and reachable passages.
 

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Some help in cleaning jets would be to buy a set of fine drill bits, #80, #60 etc. and a pin vise to hold them. These should however only be used by hand and not in an electric drill. You may have these drill bits as you work on machinery.
 

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On another note, there may be some MM bits that will work also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It definitely sounds like fuel starvation. I assume you've confirmed that the float bowl is completely filling with fuel. If so, then the fuel cutoff, if any, is not clogged. That doesn't leave much but clogged jets and fuel passages into the venturi of the carburetor.

You've got to get that jet out to clean it and all the fuel passages. Since you've worked on motorcycles all your life, you've likely used a hammer type impact driver. That could be the key to getting that stuck jet out.
Yesterday after writing the post I went back into my shop and took off the side and front / back panels to trace the fuel line. It's rather long (longer than on any cycle I've worked on!) it wraps around from the carb (back side of the EX1000), around the pull-starter side and then all the way around the front to a small cycle style petcock controlled by that "On/Off" switch on the front, and then goes up to the fuel tank which is the whole top of the Generator. That fuel line has to be 16 inches from the carb to the petcock and another 4 inches to the tank! So much for my esteem of Honda's "practical" engineering.

I checked the carb bowl and it's full and the flow rate down that CanAm length of hose is acceptable both into the bowl and disconnected. Doesn't look like any clogging there. So it appears you are right, it's an obstruction in the jets, passages or venturi. **** I wish I had an ultrasonic cleaner to immerse the whole carb in. I had sprayed the crap out of that carb with cleaner and then about 80lbs of air pressure. Thought it had to be clean! Trouble is that I can't find a single diagram of that Honda carb to know which venturi or passage is what and does what.

I think an impact driver is way over-kill, besides I don't have any bits that small.

I did a YouTube search after thinking to my self - hmm either apply cold to the jet or heat to the Jet tube body (aluminum), to shrink the brass jet or expand the threaded jet body. I've done this for years working on Brit and Harley/ Indian bikes with stuck engine case bolts and nuts. Sure enough I found several cycle mechanics that published video's that recommended the heating trick on the carb for stuck jets and all showed how relatively easily the stuck jet came out. Obviously, get ALL the gasoline out of the carb first.

Hey thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some help in cleaning jets would be to buy a set of fine drill bits, #80, #60 etc. and a pin vise to hold them. These should however only be used by hand and not in an electric drill. You may have these drill bits as you work on machinery.
On another note, there may be some MM bits that will work also.
Yeah I've got fine drill bits for that exact reason working on bikes, often making my own jet sizes for long extinct motorcycles with zero parts availability like jets. But I prefer to have the jet out of the carb "drill" them and this stuck one is the problem. I built a jib ages ago to do this with a 3-jaw drill press chuck stationary to hold the drills and then another chuck on rails (like a lathe) to hold the jets, that chuck hand turns with a hand crank.

So I've still got to get that jet out. These Honda cabs are hard to find and when you do find one the sellers want $75 to $90 +tax + shipping for this dinky carb that only has two butterflys on it! Probably cost $15 to make in the 80's.

BTW ... what is a MM bit? (Metric drill bits?)
 

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You say that an impact driver is "way overkill." There are impact drivers that are far more refined than the ones you remember from the seventies and eighties. Finding a screwdriver bit for one that will fit into the needed space is not impossible, and you will need to use some finesse to avoid destroying the jet and the carb, but it is possible to make it work. Face it. You are down to the point that you have nothing to lose.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You say that an impact driver is "way overkill." There are impact drivers that are far more refined than the ones you remember from the seventies and eighties. Finding a screwdriver bit for one that will fit into the needed space is not impossible, and you will need to use some finesse to avoid destroying the jet and the carb, but it is possible to make it work. Face it. You are down to the point that you have nothing to lose.
Well, having used Impact drivers for years, I thing that there is plenty to lose using it on a very fragile and soft brass jet in a often pot metal or aluminum Carb body. Besides, I'm not about to invest $40 to $70 on an new "small" impact driver and tiny bits when I've never seen a mechanics "How-to" video dealing with this problem (a stuck jet) recommend that process. I've watch at least 10 videos by pro mechanics recommend the heating process ... zero for using an impact wrench.

These replacement Honda carbs, when you can find one, are $75 to $125 bare (no jets or gaskets), not about to wreck it with a kinda reckless idea of using a 500 lbs gorilla on a 10lbs project. No thanks. I've got PLENTY to lose ... the whole hard to find $100 carburetor + jets.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks!
I'll report back on process and the fix (if) for anyone else that has this problem in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Latest update, it's out! The Jet that is and the generator is running, albeit too high an RPM.

Rather that take some serious chances heating the Main Jet (stuck in caramelized old gas) aluminum structure with a torch as I'd seen on numerous YouTube vids dealing with this issue (heat the aluminum, it expands enough to loosen the brass jet), I opted to drop in some Liquid Wrench the night before, let it sit overnight. Next morning I blew out the excess fluid with a compressor and heated that aluminum tube structure of the Carb with a great optical glass 9" magnifying glass I have (you know like solar torching bugs when you're 10 years old.) When the residual Liquid Wrench started furiously bubbling inside, I quickly sprayed "Chill" into the tube on the brass jet (shrinking it) and with a jet screwdriver I made, it came right out with no effort at all. The Jet's threads looked like caramel candy - soaked it in carb cleaner for an hour and Dremel cleaned it with a stiff nylon brush wheel. Other that the little damage to the Jet's driver notches, looks good and the venturi is clear using some brass wire strands from some twisted #8 gauge electrical wire.

With the EX1000 reassembled after a thorough cleanup (you could eat off it, or from inside it), fresh gas, some 10W40 Quaker State in the sump and it kicked on the 2nd pull. But it's revving way to high, so that's the next problem, no Carb adjustment info anywhere's on the net and nothing in the Owners Manual.

Oh yeah, my dope neighbor cross threaded the Oil Fill Cap trying to help, thanks! I ordered a new one for the local Honda cycle dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Last update - ge
The 1986 EX1000 is now running like it was new in 1986. I did goof and reinstalled the Governor Arm and linkage wrong somehow (yeah a transmission linkage on a 1932 Vincent Black Shadow is more complicated, I can handle that) so a Honda authorized mechanic I was introduced to corrected that and that stopped the over-revving. Some tips from "iowagold" on another thread helped me get the fuel mix adjustment (checked the plug until it was clean and dry after repeated 5 minute runs) and idle to perfect rpm level. Voltage is 130vac no load and the frequency at a solid 60hz. The replacement Oil Filler Cap also came in at the Honda Motorcycle dealer and was only, $4.35. Couldn't be happier unless someone gave me a 30's Brough Superior cycle to restore.

This old beast maybe a 1 ton boulder and not have an built-in Inverter, but the Honda mechanic told the recent Honda EU-2000's have had TWO recalls, one is currently being conducted. These old EX1000's have never been recalled.

If anyone has problems with their Honda EX1000, drop me a PM and I'll try to share what I've learned through this rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I see online the EU2200i has also been recalled, but the Honda generator dealer pointed to a tagged EU2000i on the floor there and said it was the biggest double recall Honda's had and still has.

Hazard Honda Generator Recall EU2000i
Published on Feb 15, 2018
HONDA EU2000I GENERATORS with a serial number between EAAJ-2260273 through EAAJ-2485025 are prohibited from use within the City of Los Angel...

Hey question: I know the new EU series has an internal Inverter output, what is the EX series, just regulated?
 

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I see online the EU2200i has also been recalled, but the Honda generator dealer pointed to a tagged EU2000i on the floor there and said it was the biggest double recall Honda's had and still has.
Here's the Honda Recalls page, where you can always see all the OPE recalls & updates: Honda Power Equipment - Recalls and Updates
The latest EU2200/EB2200 recall is for short circuiting.
 
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