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Honda EU7000is Rust Issue

3878 Views 85 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  Colt Carson, 
S
As a matter of background, I had my previous EU7000 for about 3 1/2 years and decided to sell it to upgrade to the current version with Bluetooth, etc. My previous unit was in pristine shape and no rust whatsoever and always kept in garage. I've had my current unit for just over 7 months. My neighbor also has the newer version, same unit but purchased about 1 year ago. When my neighbor asked for help with her unit, I also helped fill the gas tank. When removing the gas cap, there was a lot of rust on the fuel tank's rim where the cap connects. I thought that was very unusual for a relatively new unit and one kept in her garage. Also disappointed as I recommended the Honda unit to her. Then due to the recent storm, I too added a few ounces of fuel to the top-off level recommended in manual and noted the beginning of pitting (the beginning of rust) in the identical location of my neighbor's unit - the pitting/rust is under where the gas cap gasket seats to the fuel tank. Cap appears to seat firmly and snug in place so I don't think it's a bad gasket. My unit is also stored in the garage and partially air conditioned from house. I am totally perplexed as my previous unit didn't have any rust at all, was stored in identical location and have always used the suggested E0 fuel. Are there others that have the new version Honda EU7000is for over 7 months that have the same rust problem beginning? I'll get a photo of my neighbor's unit that will show terrible rust while mine appears to just be starting. I did coat the area with motor oil to hopefully slow down the rust.

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pipe said:
Sta-Bil did not do too well with Taryl's tests

All Sta-Bil tests
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The Project Farm channel on YouTube reached the same conclusion about Sta-Bil. It does not protect against water in the fuel damage to engine components.
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Columbotrek
Dutchy491 said:
When fuel gets used it gets replaced by the outside air, so if it’s humid out that dampness ends up inside the fuel tank. Over time the moisture collects as actual water and contaminates the fuel. So you can buy clean dry fuel….but that doesn’t eliminate water contamination. Too bad fuel tanks don’t have bladders like water pressure tanks do. Drying socks mentioned above are a great idea. I think that the occasional ethanol fuel run through the system completely will reduce moisture in the fuel system…
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To bad they don't add drain fittings like one finds under the wings of Airplanes. Use the sample cup to test for water during the preflight.
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OrlyP
Columbotrek said:
To bad they don't add drain fittings like one finds under the wings of Airplanes. Use the sample cup to test for water during the preflight.
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Some actually do have a sediment cup/bowl under the fuel petcock. My Robin/Denyo has a transparent bowl while my Honda clone has the more common aluminum one.

Although the cup may be too small to get sufficient fuel sample from. But when you unscrew it, you can open the petcock and pour some gas on a container to either drain any water that has settled to the bottom of the tank and/or sample the fuel.

Otherwise, you can always use the drain bolt on the carb bowl.
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OrlyP
Soya said:
The Project Farm channel on YouTube reached the same conclusion about Sta-Bil. It does not protect against water in the fuel damage to engine components.
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I only add Sta-Bil when storing non-ethanol fuel long-term in a sealed jerry can. To believe that this product can stabilize fresh fuel to prolong its shelf life is already a bit of a stretch, but to assume that it can prevent water, corrosion and other nasties from developing while it's already in an engine's fuel system is, IMO, at the least debatable.
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tabora
Columbotrek said:
To bad they don't add drain fittings like one finds under the wings of Airplanes. Use the sample cup to test for water during the preflight.
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Honda does on many current carbs; a thumbscrew with a spout... (Not on the EFI EU7000is, obviously.)
Font Machine Auto part Metal Engineering
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Colt Carson
OrlyP said:
I only add Sta-Bil when storing non-ethanol fuel long-term in a sealed jerry can. To believe that this product can stabilize fresh fuel to prolong its shelf life is already a bit of a stretch, but to assume that it can prevent water, corrosion and other nasties from developing while it's already in an engine's fuel system is, IMO, at the least debatable.
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When I worked in the refinery, we added chemicals to the gasoline as we blended it. We typically blended the gasoline almost 24/7 at a rate of over 400,000 gallons per hour. Even though chemicals were added during the blending to extend storage life, we also tested the gasoline for undesirable byproducts of refining that were corrosive to silver or copper. We used a caustic treatment to correct the copper corrosion, or a vendor’s chemical was added to correct the silver corrosion if needed. We also frequently drained water from the bottom of the big tanks. When we blended a tank of gasoline, it may sit for weeks before we sold all of it. Then it may spend almost a week on a ship, then more weeks in another terminal's tanks before being delivered to a local station by tank truck. That’s one reason why we added chemicals to the gasoline. But if you are wanting to store the fuel for an extra year, I think adding the additional chemical is a good idea. I believe the added chemicals may also help prevent corrosion.
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