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Discussion Starter #101
Thanks. Sometimes I make assumptions that make perfect sense in my head that later turns out to be totally wrong. lol.

BTW, I really wish I had started this thread different and had been a little more concise. I just thought it might get a few dozen reads, so I wasn't too concerned about my rambling. Now that this has soared past 20,000 views, I wonder how many people have said, "Dude, just get to the point, I don't need all the background." lol
 

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learned a few more things...

Ok, I fiddled around some more over the last week and learned a few things. This is after installing a new spark plug with the gap adjusted to .020". (Google searches verified that this is the recommended gap size for natural gas.)

First, the generator starts and seems to run fine on gasoline with the smaller gap spark plug _and_ with the auto-choke disconnected and the vane set fully open. It's as if auto-choke doesn't have much of an affect on operation(?)

After some fiddling I was able to start the generator on NG. It seemed easier this time. I made smaller adjustments (1/4 turn) at the load block and that seemed to help. Regardless of whether the generator is warmed up or not, the load block setting that makes the generator run smoothly does not seem to allow it to start(!?!?) I always have to adjust the screw (somewhere around 1 turn "in", I think) to start, and fiddle some more to smooth it out once it's started. I may try different choke vane settings (8 o'clock) as mentioned earlier in this thread to see if that helps.

I previously mentioned experiencing loud "mis-fires" when trying to start the generator on NG. I was very concerned that these could be damaging to the engine. I'm happy to report there are _no_ misfires anymore. I believe this, along with the somewhat easier starting, is due to smaller spark plug gap. Anyone experiencing difficulties might want to give this a try.

I'll post back here when I have more...
 

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Glad that you're making progress. I wonder if the regulator is the issue. I switched to that other regulator because NG pressure is lower, and I have no problems any more, but I also changed other things as well, so I never really knew which fixed it.
 

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Thanks, Sixto. I may try the other regulator as a last resort if I can't get it to work reliably...


Glad that you're making progress. I wonder if the regulator is the issue. I switched to that other regulator because NG pressure is lower, and I have no problems any more, but I also changed other things as well, so I never really knew which fixed it.
 

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There is a way to adjust the standard Garretson 6oz 038-122 regulator to match the 4oz 039-31173-1 regulator, but I didn't want to modify anything myself. There's an adjustment screw under the outer screw. I found a description of how to make the adjustment but I decided that I'd just invest the $90 and get the 4oz regulator, the swap was easy. Again, not sure if that 's the answer but I wanted the regulator that matched my NG pressure.

Just to be clear ... I have a 3/4 quick disconnect at the house, 10 feet of 3/4 NG hose, 3/4 connection to the Garretson 039-31173 regulator, I have the auto choke disconnected and always open, and I changed the spark gap to 18-20-ish.

To start, I prime with a couple of presses, and then I turn on the electric start, and I let it crank for a good 10-20 seconds and it starts every time. I need to double check but I think I have it open 10 screw groves.
 

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Just a quick update: I did purchase the other regulator to try, but back in mid Dec I had an accident with the snowblower. I stupidly got my hand too close to the chute when i thought the fan/auger was off. The result - two fingers crushed in the fan. I should be ok but it's a slow healing process.

I'll try the regulator once i have the use of both of my hands again.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Just a quick update: I did purchase the other regulator to try, but back in mid Dec I had an accident with the snowblower. I stupidly got my hand too close to the chute when i thought the fan/auger was off. The result - two fingers crushed in the fan. I should be ok but it's a slow healing process.

I'll try the regulator once i have the use of both of my hands again.
Any updates on hand or regulator?
 

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I know its been sometime since anyone has responded to this old thread, but im having problems with my EU6500 tri fuel conversion. I always need to start it on gasoline to get it running, i am aware of the choke issue, but it also has problems even after its warmed up.



After its warmed up, i always need to adjust the load block a couple of turns, and then it will sound great.. but then it seems not to respond correctly or lags if i start to add load to the generator even with the eco throttle turned off sometimes causing the engine to sputter or cutting off the engine.. if i dont change the load, it runs fine; but no matter how much i adjust, i cant seem to get it run consistently. It does run fine on gasoline with changing loads .. runs perfect on gasoline.



I am thinking of ordering the alternate regulator described by scipto to see if thats the problem .. i also need to check the spark plug gap which could be a problem, but its lag on adding load makes me wonder if somethings not right with the regulator so i am going to check the spark plug gap first though i keep thinking the regulator may be a problem.



I currently have a 3/4 inch natgas line coming in which is hooked to a 3/4 inch hose... the hose is 25' which is longer than most mentioned here .. im not sure if that could also be a problem. The other thing i have thought about was getting a vaccum guage to put between the carbertor and the regulator just to establish what going on there and to give some feed back to me as to the vaccum being pulled and how its running.



In any event, if anyone has thoughts or further ideas it be much appreciated. thanks.
 

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I have had the EU6500i US Carb conversion for several years. I had similar problems with getting it started on natural gas. Reducing the gap on the plug solved that problem. I have also experienced the issue of the demand regulator being insensitive to changes in the load block setting. US Carb sent me a replacement snorkel and that did not resolve the problem. My prior conventional generator worked great with the US Carb conversion kit. I expected to experience a 10% or so reduction in power vis a vis gasoline, but without the ability to control the inflow, I am experiencing a greater loss than 10%.
 

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just an update on the spark gap and plug for NG or LP conversions.
now they like the iridium ngk plug with the gap set to .020 inches or 20 thou.

it advances the spark a bit at that gap as well.
we also use this new gap and iridium plug on the new honda eu7000is us carb conversions for the late model honda generators.
 
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