Yeah, don't worry about the regulator, it was just a theory that I had, but not sure that the different regulator changed anything.Hi Sixto:
While I'm waiting for the plumber to get back to me regarding the NG hookup, I'm trying to work through what else needs to be done.
You previously mentioned you needed to change to a different regulator, and also disable auto-choke. I don't know what my NG pressure is, so I'm not going to worry about the regulator just yet. Should I wait to see if I have any issues before disabling auto-choke, or is this something that should definitely be done when running on NG? I've been looking at my original carb. After disconnecting the electrical connection, I should manually turn the actuator on top of the carb so the the vane is fully open, correct?
What's the procedure for setting the load block? The CMD instructions say to turn the screw full in, then back it out 1/4 turn for each horsepower of engine rating. So for the eu6500 that should be ~12HP x 1/4 turn = 3 full turns. But how do I verify that's the correct setting? Do I turn the screw in or out at idle until the engine smooths out? Or are adjustments done with the generator loaded?
BTW, thanks so much for all the help!
For the disable of the auto-choke it definitely helped me starting. I disconnected it and did the following:
Here's what I did with the load block:As you're looking at it from the front, with the panel door open, you should push it to the left, clockwise if looking from the top.
I haven't tried mine in a couple of weeks, but the last few times it started right up.
I fgured this out by finding the most closed state that ran smoothly, then applying load and opening it up little by little to just keep it purring nicely.Good question, my reference has been the number of grooves in the load block screw from the open end of the screw to the load block lock nut. For me, for the CMD kit, it's 10 screw grooves. I use a pointy object or screwdriver to count the screw grooves.