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6-2 thanks for the instructions. I will give it a try. Just out of curiosity, how many turns do you need to keep the load block out on a full load?
Good question, my reference has been the number of grooves in the load block screw from the open end of the screw to the load block lock nut. For me, for the CMD kit, it's 10 screw grooves. I use a pointy object or screwdriver to count the screw grooves.
 

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Sixto, if I push the black plastic choke lever as far as it will go toward the back should that put the choke in the fully open position? I disconnected the auto choke wire. Still having a heck of a time getting it started on NG. I eventually get it going, but it takes 4-6 tries and lots of priming. Very frustrating and losing confidence. I really don't want to reintroduce gasoline to get it started, but that seems to be the only tried and true method for an easy start from my experience.
 

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Sixto, if I push the black plastic choke lever as far as it will go toward the back should that put the choke in the fully open position? I disconnected the auto choke wire. Still having a heck of a time getting it started on NG. I eventually get it going, but it takes 4-6 tries and lots of priming. Very frustrating and losing confidence. I really don't want to reintroduce gasoline to get it started, but that seems to be the only tried and true method for an easy start from my experience.
As you're looking at it from the front, with the panel door open, you should push it to the left, clockwise if looking from the top.

I haven't tried mine in a couple of weeks, but the last few times it started right up.
 

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Not sure if I mentioned earlier in this thread but I also swapped out the standard Garretson regulator, was 038-122 (6oz). I switched to the 039-31173-1 which supports 4oz (7") water column NG pressure. There were suggestions on how to tweak the 038-122 for 4oz but figured that I'd go with the one setup for 4oz from the factory. Not sure if it helped with the start, but it does seem to react to load better. Also changed the spark plug to .20 gap.
 

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thanks so much for your quick reply. I will give the suggestions a try.
Yeah, no problem. I'm learning as I go. Have spoken to CMD a few times along the way as well. Trying to get this perfect so that it runs well and I never need to use gasoline ever again, and I never need to stand on lengthy gas lines ever again. Last time was a nightmare, one day was an 8 hour search for gasoline.

The next 4-8 weeks are peak season. We'll see if the many months of planning and tuning will be needed.
 

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Just wanted to thank the chorus of people who appreciate the work Sixto and others have done on the EU6500 choke issue. It would be a shame to keep gasoline just to start it, and then have to worry about turpentine, etc... Better to use NG all the time, if you have it.

One thing I noticed recently...

After the local utility upgraded my service (increasing the diameter of the main service line and, thus, the BTUs), the engine was able to start more easily on Nat Gas (without the choke modification). But, the weather was warm when I tried, so I'll also be looking to see how this all works when it gets colder.

As others have stated, it would be nice if CMD (or others) included a toggle on/off switch that could be used to shutoff the auto-choke.

What's the rationale for changing the spark gap?
 

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Hi Everyone,

Noobie here. I just received my tri-fuel kit from CMD, and as everyone has noted the instructions on how to install the carb are non-existent.

Can someone walk me through this, or better yet provide a link or post some pictures? I've done a lot of googling, but found nothing.

I'm fairly handy, but I've never worked on small engines...

Thanks in advance!

-dan
 

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Hi Everyone,

Noobie here. I just received my tri-fuel kit from CMD, and as everyone has noted the instructions on how to install the carb are non-existent.

Can someone walk me through this, or better yet provide a link or post some pictures? I've done a lot of googling, but found nothing.

I'm fairly handy, but I've never worked on small engines...

Thanks in advance!

-dan
There was a video on youtube where a guy (thought in Florida) showed how to add remote start and a fuel add-on kit, and the first several steps of that video were the same.

It's fairly easy but I did learn as I went.

The two key problems for me were 1) putting back the 4th clip on the bottom back for the air input plastic casing, and 2) there was a metal plate that attaches to the carburetor that I needed to cut to get the new carb installed correctly.

You remove the air unit, remove the caskets and carb, and then put everything back in the reverse order.

It should only take minutes for most of it, but it did take me almost an hour to get that back bottom clip on. I used tape and a long screwdriver finally to get it done.
 

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Hi Sixto,

Thanks for the quick reply. The youtube link earlier in this thread takes me to page that says the video is private, and I can't view it.

I found this. Is this what you were referring to?:


It discusses how to get the air intake clips off and a few other things, but it doesn't cover how to remove the carb.

I'm concerned about how to remove the carb, given all the hoses coming off the bottom and the electrical(?) connectors on the top.




There was a video on youtube where a guy (thought in Florida) showed how to add remote start and a fuel add-on kit, and the first several steps of that video were the same.

It's fairly easy but I did learn as I went.

The two key problems for me were 1) putting back the 4th clip on the bottom back for the air input plastic casing, and 2) there was a metal plate that attaches to the carburetor that I needed to cut to get the new carb installed correctly.

You remove the air unit, remove the caskets and carb, and then put everything back in the reverse order.

It should only take minutes for most of it, but it did take me almost an hour to get that back bottom clip on. I used tape and a long screwdriver finally to get it done.
 

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Yep, that's the link. The carb itself is fairly easy, you disconnect the two wiring harnesses at the top and the gasoline input, the other tubes come with the carb and get routed below through the same areas where the existing tubing is.

Other then that 4th clip, it's fairly easy.
 

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Hmm, CMD sent me a bare carb (might be new, might be used, for all I know) and it doesn't have any hoses coming off the bottom.

I guess I can just swap them from over from the original carb.


Yep, that's the link. The carb itself is fairly easy, you disconnect the two wiring harnesses at the top and the gasoline input, the other tubes come with the carb and get routed below through the same areas where the existing tubing is.

Other then that 4th clip, it's fairly easy.
 

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Looking at my old carb right now ... I ordered a new carb and kept the old just in case. My old carb has two tubes still attached, one right above the gasoline input and the other coming out the bottom. The new carb came with those same tubes.

You remove the air intake, then the washers, then the carb, stick on the new carb, and re-attach everything. For that 4th clip on the lower back I used a piece of tape to hold it somewhat attached/hanging, then put on the air intake, and used a long heavy screwdriver to reach back to snap it closed. It took a long time before I figured out this method. Or find someone with really long fingers. :) Or maybe some type of long item that is magnetized to hold the clip. I struggled with it for a long time.
 

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Hi Sixto,
I did the same thing - ordered the kit with a carb so I could keep the old one just in case. I'm peeved mine didn't come with the tubes.

I'm going to try to install the kit this weekend if I get a chance. Thanks for the tips on dealing with that fourth clip.

-dan



Looking at my old carb right now ... I ordered a new carb and kept the old just in case. My old carb has two tubes still attached, one right above the gasoline input and the other coming out the bottom. The new carb came with those same tubes.

You remove the air intake, then the washers, then the carb, stick on the new carb, and re-attach everything. For that 4th clip on the lower back I used a piece of tape to hold it somewhat attached/hanging, then put on the air intake, and used a long heavy screwdriver to reach back to snap it closed. It took a long time before I figured out this method. Or find someone with really long fingers. :) Or maybe some type of long item that is magnetized to hold the clip. I struggled with it for a long time.
 

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Well, thanks to the help here that wasn't bad at all!

The tape trick worked on the rear airbox clip. It only took a couple of tries to get it on.

The only real issue I had was with the metal bracket between the carb and the airbox. It has a 90 degree bend in it, and there's a hole in it for a plastic clip that holds the two wiring harnesses. With the modified carb from CMD, the brass gas fitting protrudes enough from the carb body to interfere with the bracket. I was able to bend the bracket enough to get it to work, but not before ripping the gasket between the bracket and carb :mad:

I laid the gasket in place and carefully lined it up. Hopefully it will be OK. I don't think it's a high pressure application...

After installing the kit I fired the generator up on gas to verify everything was OK. It purred like a kitten ;)

Now I just need to get the natural gas connection to the house made.

What's the size of the brass input fitting on the regulator? What kind and size of flexible hose should I use between the generator and gas supply? The hose that came with the CMD kit looks like it's generic fuel hose like the kind you can get at Autozone. Do I put a barb fitting at the regulator end? What about the connection to the supply? Is there a special type of quick-connect fitting that I need? (The hose between the generator and house will only need to be 6-8 feet in length.)

Finally, when running the generator on NG does "eco-mode" always have to be off?

Thanks!

-dan
 

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Sixto - How are you storing your original carb? Did you clean it or do anything special? I ran mine on gas when I got the generator to make sure everything worked. When I removed the carb I turned it upside down, tilted it, etc, to try and drain all the gas out. Then I just stuck it in a ziplock baggie.

Also, it was easy to swap over the pink drainage hoses - probably easier than removing/re-routing...
 

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Well, thanks to the help here that wasn't bad at all!

The tape trick worked on the rear airbox clip. It only took a couple of tries to get it on.

The only real issue I had was with the metal bracket between the carb and the airbox. It has a 90 degree bend in it, and there's a hole in it for a plastic clip that holds the two wiring harnesses. With the modified carb from CMD, the brass gas fitting protrudes enough from the carb body to interfere with the bracket. I was able to bend the bracket enough to get it to work, but not before ripping the gasket between the bracket and carb :mad:

I laid the gasket in place and carefully lined it up. Hopefully it will be OK. I don't think it's a high pressure application...

After installing the kit I fired the generator up on gas to verify everything was OK. It purred like a kitten ;)

Now I just need to get the natural gas connection to the house made.

What's the size of the brass input fitting on the regulator? What kind and size of flexible hose should I use between the generator and gas supply? The hose that came with the CMD kit looks like it's generic fuel hose like the kind you can get at Autozone. Do I put a barb fitting at the regulator end? What about the connection to the supply? Is there a special type of quick-connect fitting that I need? (The hose between the generator and house will only need to be 6-8 feet in length.)

Finally, when running the generator on NG does "eco-mode" always have to be off?

Thanks!

-dan
Sixto - How are you storing your original carb? Did you clean it or do anything special? I ran mine on gas when I got the generator to make sure everything worked. When I removed the carb I turned it upside down, tilted it, etc, to try and drain all the gas out. Then I just stuck it in a ziplock baggie.

Also, it was easy to swap over the pink drainage hoses - probably easier than removing/re-routing...
That's great, yep, as referenced I had a problem with that metal bracket as well. I removed it and cut it a few inches shorter.

I have a 3/4 quick disconnect on the house, 3/4 flexible house from house to regulator, and direct connect to regulator. The hose is permanently attached to the regulator. I just need to quickly hook up the hose to the quick disconnect each time. I ordered everything from Natural Gas Connector Hoses and Quick Connect Fittings, Generator Connector Hose, Stainless Steel Overbraid Gas Hose

Just like you, cleaned up the old carb and it's in a baggie, as backup.

When you do get the NG hooked up, you'll need to play with load-block setting. I also disconnected the auto-choke, and since then it's starts first or second try.

I use eco-mode just fine. I do have a little problem if I'm running at about 4,000 watts and add load that spikes to 5,500 watts, it seems to surge somewhat and the lights flicker, but I'm not planning to run more then 2,000-3,000 watts steadily so mostly fine.

We did have a short outage recently and I had the house up and running within minutes. Roll it out, hook up NG and power cord, turn off street power, turn on generator breaker, presto, house powered. I could do it in 5 minutes if I needed to.
 

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And one other thing .... I didn't like the idea of bending the hose from the regulator to the carb thru the generator walling ... so I put a 90-degree brass fitting inside and outside the generator wall with a nipple between the two ... then hooked up the hose inside and outside to the brass fittings, with no rubber tubing going through the generator casing.
 

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Hi Sixto:

While I'm waiting for the plumber to get back to me regarding the NG hookup, I'm trying to work through what else needs to be done.

You previously mentioned you needed to change to a different regulator, and also disable auto-choke. I don't know what my NG pressure is, so I'm not going to worry about the regulator just yet. Should I wait to see if I have any issues before disabling auto-choke, or is this something that should definitely be done when running on NG? I've been looking at my original carb. After disconnecting the electrical connection, I should manually turn the actuator on top of the carb so the the vane is fully open, correct?

What's the procedure for setting the load block? The CMD instructions say to turn the screw full in, then back it out 1/4 turn for each horsepower of engine rating. So for the eu6500 that should be ~12HP x 1/4 turn = 3 full turns. But how do I verify that's the correct setting? Do I turn the screw in or out at idle until the engine smooths out? Or are adjustments done with the generator loaded?

BTW, thanks so much for all the help!

-dan


And one other thing .... I didn't like the idea of bending the hose from the regulator to the carb thru the generator walling ... so I put a 90-degree brass fitting inside and outside the generator wall with a nipple between the two ... then hooked up the hose inside and outside to the brass fittings, with no rubber tubing going through the generator casing.
 
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