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Discussion Starter #24
Retested and all resistances are in limit. Voltages are still off. I am now thinking the spark unit part number 30400-z39-c91. The stator dropped to .3 ohms with the Fluke. Fluke read .4 ohms, but when I zero out the meter the Fluke read .1 ohm when leads are held together for full continuity. I have a Honda 300 Fourtrax and had no spark until I traded out the spark module. I never found a good way to test the module.
 

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yea darn sealed magic box stuff..
kinda like the inverter unit...
not serviceable.
just replace.
I thought on the honda eu1000i I had a bad spark unit or inverter...
ended up the real issue was the rotor with missing magnets!!
cool find!!
I replaced the spark unit (130 bucks) before I did the tear down...
it was what the honda service manual said to do...
they still do not have in the manuals for the eu series to check and inspect the rotor magnets...

I had an eu3000i with a bad rotor 2 years back... I replaced it with new and it worked!
and sent the bad one in to honda!!
they sent a replacement for free.
they are pretty good about warranty issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
yea darn sealed magic box stuff..
kinda like the inverter unit...
not serviceable.
just replace.
I thought on the honda eu1000i I had a bad spark unit or inverter...
ended up the real issue was the rotor with missing magnets!!
cool find!!
I replaced the spark unit (130 bucks) before I did the tear down...
it was what the honda service manual said to do...
they still do not have in the manuals for the eu series to check and inspect the rotor magnets...

I had an eu3000i with a bad rotor 2 years back... I replaced it with new and it worked!
and sent the bad one in to honda!!
they sent a replacement for free.
they are pretty good about warranty issues.
I had my unit tore down to be ready to pull the rotor, but put it back together after rechecking resistance. I found a new genuine Honda module with shipping and and tax for under $40. I am needing the my generator in two weeks so ordered the module since it is easy to change. Unfortunately by unit is no longer under warranty , even though it has under 20 hours of run time. I will let you know if the spark unit change works, if not I am back to taking it apart again.
 

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For $40 its worth a shot with the ignition module.

Seriously...under 20 hours? There must be something a foot here. Have you owned it since new? Was it stored somewhere where it got wet?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
For $40 its worth a shot with the ignition module.

Seriously...under 20 hours? There must be something a foot here. Have you owned it since new? Was it stored somewhere where it got wet?
Bought it new and bought the duel generator package and keep it in my trailer so it is pretty dry. I use the other unit more since it starts easier. Trying to get unit in tip top shape. Most of the time I run the units above 7000' elevation and obviously in remote areas where there is no hook-ups. FYI I bought a Trojan battery for my trailer, a little pricey but will pay for itself. To charge the battery, I will run a smart charger directly off the generator and the charger will start will high amps and work its way down to a float mode. Great set up for remote areas areas of the mountains. No KOA!
 

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cool EF!
are you using the high alt jet at the above 7k?
so far they are still working on the efi for the 2200i and the 3000i series of gens.
it takes a battery.. but with the new tech out for smaller battery's there is room in a small gen case.

that is one of the best things about an eu7000is is the injection adjusting to any temperature and any altitude.
it is a real lamda style fuel injection.

but for what camping you do it just is way too large of gen set.

those trojan battery's are the best in class. heavy but real good.
yea as long as you use the smart charger on them like you are they are a 10 year battery.
just be sure to check the water every month and use distilled water only to refill the water.

we have a couple of trojan battery's that are at year 15 and still test good no kidding.
but they are on a large solar array inside a temp controlled shack.
we went the thermal sensor style charge controller.
and it has de sulfate cycle too.

just a note the Lead acid batteries do not like below 58 deg F.
or above 90 deg f
they just do not charge right in lower or higher temps outside.
we keep most of the battery shacks at 64 to 68 deg f.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I am changing out the jet now for the higher altitude. I am wondering if someone did it where I bought it since looking through the orifice, it looks like the same size. Did not see a stamp on the jet, but looking in the light, they look the same. Doesn't matter since I installed the new jet.
I can't control the environment as well as you do for your battery, but when I am up elk hunting I am at the mercy of what ever Mother Nature dishes out. If I get 7 to 10 years out of the battery, I would turn cartwheels. I bought a smart charger from West Marine that can go up to 40amps. It has a reconditioning cycle which I understand you should use once in a while, but I heard an excessive use of that cycle can ultimately lower your battery life. If I get my generator purring, life will be and I can head for the hills where the temperature is pretty much in the 70's.
One other thing is calibrating a digital fluke meter. You hold the high/low button and then go to the ohms setting. I get it calibrated to about .1ohm when I short the leads for a continuity check. I then subtract the .1 ohm from my reading. Is there a better way to calibrate?
 
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