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I have a EU2000i Honda Generator. I have no spark and have downloaded the service manual and followed the troubleshooting procedure and documented all test results. 3items failed which was the Ignition Pulse Generator showed correct ohms but no mV output (3-4 mV DC). The Exciter resistance was slightly above at .8 ohms (normal .2-.3 ohms). The ignition coil primary resistance 1.7 (normal .7-1.1 ohms). Any idea what needs replacement?
 

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I have a EU2000i Honda Generator. I have no spark and have downloaded the service manual and followed the troubleshooting procedure and documented all test results. 3items failed which was the Ignition Pulse Generator showed correct ohms but no mV output (3-4 mV DC). The Exciter resistance was slightly above at .8 ohms (normal .2-.3 ohms). The ignition coil primary resistance 1.7 (normal .7-1.1 ohms). Any idea what needs replacement?
what is your vin number on the eu2000i?
they had an issue with spark caps on the later units (last production)
i have that recall sheet on the honda generator forum.
pm me for an invite.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not certain but model may have a low oil shutdown circuit. If so, I believe it disables the ignition by grounding the ignition primary.
Have you checked on that?
Checked low oil switch and no continuity which means oil level adequate. Thanks
what is your vin number on the eu2000i?
they had an issue with spark caps on the later units (last production)
i have that recall sheet on the honda generator forum.
pm me for an invite.
Serial number: EACT 1305587 (it was manufactured in a different country then most generators) Wondering if IPG may not have the right gap since the resistance is ok, but no millivolts detected. Hate to start taring too many things apart if I could get a better idea from my diagnosis. Followed the guild in the Honda service manual, not the owners manual. It said to contact Honda technical service for help with the review of my troubleshooting worksheet, but unsuccessful getting a hold of Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not certain but model may have a low oil shutdown circuit. If so, I believe it disables the ignition by grounding the ignition primary.
Have you checked on that?
Checked for low oil, but have no continuity so low oil and switch are ok.
 

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you can have a bad stator or rotor on this..
super rare but i have seen them.
the rotor is the flywheel assy with the magnets.
make sure you count the magnets too!!
and the stator is the coil setup.
it can have bad solder on the stator as well.
or a flashed over coil that has been over heated.

pull the starter assy loose and spin the rotor with an drill and measure the voltage on all of the coils
yea you have to shuck it down to the engine..
take your time and bag and mark your parts.
 

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I have a EU2000i Honda Generator. I have no spark and have downloaded the service manual and followed the troubleshooting procedure and documented all test results. 3items failed which was the Ignition Pulse Generator showed correct ohms but no mV output (3-4 mV DC). The Exciter resistance was slightly above at .8 ohms (normal .2-.3 ohms). The ignition coil primary resistance 1.7 (normal .7-1.1 ohms). Any idea what needs replacement?
are you using a good fluke meter??
check the zero on the test leads and you need a super good meter to check the low resistance...
super critical on the decimal ohms...

a .8 ohms makes me think a hot spot in the stator winding...
or a bad solder connection.

change your meter to a expensive meter or re calibrate the leads and re test..

i think you are looking at an new stator and a rotor...
good to replace them as a set...
that way they are both the latest up dated versions.
 

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So you completed every test starting on page 21 in the shop manual?

I also recommend a HIGH quality meter for testing. Mediocre diagnostic tools will often have you chasing your tail.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
there were issues on the engine shut off switch sticking on some of these.
unplug the switch and see if you get spark.
are you using a good fluke meter??
check the zero on the test leads and you need a super good meter to check the low resistance...
super critical on the decimal ohms...

a .8 ohms makes me think a hot spot in the stator winding...
or a bad solder connection.

change your meter to a expensive meter or re calibrate the leads and re test..

i think you are looking at an new stator and a rotor...
good to replace them as a set...
that way they are both the latest up dated versions.
Thanks for your help. The meter is not quite a Fluke, but a true RMS Klein mm2000. Should be fairly good.
I did not want to tear everything apart on the generator if someone had a good idea, but my next step is going into the unit further. I followed the Honda service guide starting on page 21 and going through page 24 of the ignition system section. My voltage reading when pulling the starting cord for the Exciter voltage is about 3.6 volts and the range is suppose to be 4-5 volts The exciter ohm reading is .8 when it is suppose to be .2-.3 ohms. The ignition coil primary resistance is suppose to be .7-1.1 ohms and my reading was 1.7 ohms. They are a little off, but close. All the other steps on the trouble shooting worksheet passed. My main concern is that I get 0 millivolts on the ignition pulse generator main terminal. The resistance reading for the ipg is within range. Does it seem logical that the ipg is ok, but the gap between the ipg and the rotor is too great? The generator is about 3 to 4 years old and probably has less than 20 hours on it.
 

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yea that meter should be ok.
check the meter for zero when in ohms with both probes together. make sure it is zero ohms.
if it is not then follow the instructions for that meter to zero the scale.

I am suspecting the magnetism in the rotor... rare issue for the permanent magnets to be weak.
but to check them right the rotor needs to be removed from the generator crank shaft.

there is a bump on the outside of the flywheel for the IPG magnet air gap.

if the generator was case off you can remove the starter pull rope assy as well as the spark plug and use a socket adapter and proper socket in a cordless drill to spin the generator and measure all of the test points at a higher rpm...

and at that point of tear down you can see the air gap in the IPG and check it for gap.
hard to tell if the mounting tab broke off on the IPG unless you are able to see inside the generator pull rope cover.

check the meter zero first.. if it is not perfect zero re calibrate the meter then check the readings again.

from there tear down the generator with covers off for a visual inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yea that meter should be ok.
check the meter for zero when in ohms with both probes together. make sure it is zero ohms.
if it is not then follow the instructions for that meter to zero the scale.

I am suspecting the magnetism in the rotor... rare issue for the permanent magnets to be weak.
but to check them right the rotor needs to be removed from the generator crank shaft.

there is a bump on the outside of the flywheel for the IPG magnet air gap.

if the generator was case off you can remove the starter pull rope assy as well as the spark plug and use a socket adapter and proper socket in a cordless drill to spin the generator and measure all of the test points at a higher rpm...

and at that point of tear down you can see the air gap in the IPG and check it for gap.
hard to tell if the mounting tab broke off on the IPG unless you are able to see inside the generator pull rope cover.

check the meter zero first.. if it is not perfect zero re calibrate the meter then check the readings again.

from there tear down the generator with covers off for a visual inspection.
Thanks. I will work on what you recommend. The meter does zero out. I will let you know what I find out of all this.
 

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darn i was wishing for a bad v/o meter..
yea time to shuck off the case and remove the pull start assy.
check things real close, and if it is your first time with a honda make sure you use the right size screwdrivers on the iso Phillips heads.. they are iso #3 and ISO #2 it is the japan size.
i always use new bits so they will not cam out..
and use never seize on those bolts when i go back together on the case.

you have one chance on the screw removal the first time... and yes it is normal for them to sound like you broke the tip!!
lol!! they are just that tight!
story time:
I had an internet customer send me a honda 2000i 6 months back with rounded heads..
3000 hours on the generator. but it looked real good and clean on the case.
I had to drill the bolt heads.. and remove the studs left and they came right out.
but it went back together ok with new honda bolts.
the real repair was a pull rope issue so an easy repair.
the down fall of it is the shipping.. 65 bucks each way..
and drain all of the oil and gas out to total dry.
 

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@Efuddpucker, is this the version of the manual you downloaded? https://halcyontimes.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/eu2000i-repair-manual.pdf

The ignition system diagnosis section starts on page 21, the worksheet for filling in your measurements is on page 24.

Did you follow this flow chart start to finish? (including disconnecting the stop switch) If you post a pic of the filled in worksheet that might help organize your measurements and help shed some light on the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
there is a test on the rotor ... but you need a magnet tester for Gauss. expensive lab gear.
lol yea I have one! lol it was $5k back in the day.
if you replace the stator i replace the rotor at the same time on the eu gens.
click here for the poust usa site there is a link for parts fish on the lower part of that page with a discount code
they are real good on the parts costs and the diagrams for the eu gen sets.
I screwed up and am starting over again on my diagnostics. My meter was off and I put in new batteries and recalibrated it. I also borrowed a fluke meter just to make sure and compare. The Klein and the Fluke are between one and two tenths ohms off even after calibration. I think all by resistance readings (haven't checked it yet) will probably come in range. The voltage on the IPG will still be out of range and so will the stator (exciter) voltage. If this is the case, I am thinking the ICM would be the issue. You have been super and appreciate all your help.
 

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@Efuddpucker, is this the version of the manual you downloaded? https://halcyontimes.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/eu2000i-repair-manual.pdf

The ignition system diagnosis section starts on page 21, the worksheet for filling in your measurements is on page 24.

Did you follow this flow chart start to finish? (including disconnecting the stop switch) If you post a pic of the filled in worksheet that might help organize your measurements and help shed some light on the issue.
I followed the procedure in the service manual and filled out the worksheet. I also checked the IPG distance and it came in range at .024 in. There is also a check on page 53 and some additional checks for the stator further on back in the manual. If all my resistance checks are within range and not the voltage test, I am assuming it is the ICM. Had no spark problems on my Honda 300 Fourtrax and it turned out to be the ICM. Any thoughts?
 
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