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Have you checked the stator resistances with a multimeter yet? I would imagine you'd need to check through each coil(s), as well as from each coil to ground.

Ideally there are specs that you can check against. But barring that, if a coil has a short to ground, for instance, you can probably conclude that it has failed.

Forgive me if I'm missing something, and I haven't worked on these. But I'd expect that a meter will answer the question fairly conclusively.
 

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There are two things that can cause resistance when turning.
First is the magnetic resistance as Melson explained.
It can be determined by a slight hold back and increase to full strength.
Then it will release or in some case the rotor will jump back.
Similar to trying to put two magnets together.
The other is drag on a rotor is as it comes into contact with the field.
This type usually holds the rotor steadily and does not release its hold.
You mentioned that you had disconnected all of the wiring to the fields.
That leads me to thinking that there is no magnetic hold on the rotor.
One other thing lacking is the exciter coil and what part it could play in this resistance.
The exciter coil is activated by two magnets on the flywheel.
As for any drag, I doubt the exciter magnets are of any consequence.
 

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Hi Blacktrain,
IF you can start the genset, it is possible to check the AC voltage produced by the stator windings. The main winding is a 3 phase, star connected, giving a variable voltage and frequency, depending on the engine RPMs.
Unplug the connector with the 3 red wires and check the output voltage in the 3 possible combinations: AB, AC, BC, running the engine at low RPM. Be very careful doing this, due to the high voltages present.
All the readings must be the same, one low reading is a short in the corresponding coils. It means stator replacement.
Hope this help
 

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stator coils on the eu3000i should look like this
click the below links for the stator pix
coil 1
http://www.poustusa.com/GENERATOR_HELP_PAGES/HONDA_EU3000I_PIX/eu3000isstator1pix.jpg

coil 2
http://www.poustusa.com/GENERATOR_HELP_PAGES/HONDA_EU3000I_PIX/eu3000isstatorbacksidepix.jpg

3 plugs
www.poustusa.com/GENERATOR_HELP_PAGES/HONDA_EU3000I_PIX/eu3000isstatorplugspix.jpg

make sure all 4 plugs are disconnected when testing for the rotor turn

the 3 red wires are the 3 phase main winding 1.4 - 1.5 ohms
the two grays are the sub winding 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
the 2 brown#7 are the dc winding 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
and the 2 brown or red#8 are the onboard battery charge winding 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

all of the 4 sets windings should not conduct to each other
watch for hot spots and or corrosion.

more pix and data are on the honda forum
https://hondagenerator.groups.io/
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It does have 18 magnets I must have hit the 7 instead of the 8. My fault. sub winding I get 0.2 ohms, dc winding 0.2 ohms, charge winding 0.2 ohms, 3 phase main winding 0.7 ohms.
 

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It does have 18 magnets I must have hit the 7 instead of the 8. My fault. sub winding I get 0.2 ohms, dc winding 0.2 ohms, charge winding 0.2 ohms, 3 phase main winding 0.7 ohms.
What are the resistances to ground? As iowagold said, the 3 phase is low. If it also has continuity to ground, that could help confirm that something is wrong with it. It could presumably have a failure between the windings, without shorting to ground, but it's something to check. I'd also check between the coils, from to another.
 

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if you were closer blacktrain I would say bring it over!!
I do maybe 7-8 gens a week...
always learning!!
there is always a new twist on the equipment!!
LOL!
always use a good fluke meter to check these honda gens..

and a scope meter or an classic scope is nice to look at the wave form if you are having inverter issues...
you can see if a section of the inverter is not working right.

yea guys hand on to your old parts and old carbs..
ship them to me.
I use the carbs as jigs for making housings / throttle body's from scratch...
for fuel injection.

I have on my list a 3d metal printer.

right now I use a polymer printer for prototype..
then we flow bench the parts then back in to cad with the tweaks..
then to a mill with t6 aluminum billet...
and make out own valve body's..
big bucks!! takes about 5 k in time to do one...
at least the first time..
then it is about 500 bucks after the numbers are in cad to make one.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I received the new rotor and stator, put it all back together, held my breath, and started it up, ran like a new generator and performed perfectly. I certainly learned a lot from all this and i could not have done it without everyone's help. I want to thank each and everyone of you for all your patience and help it has been greatly appreciated. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.................
 

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That was a unusual problem. For example, over 42 years of telecom power work I had but two failures directly attributable to rotors.

Glad to hear you got it working.
Question: Did stare-&-compare to see if you could discover the issue?
 

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I received the new rotor and stator, put it all back together, held my breath, and started it up, ran like a new generator and performed perfectly. I certainly learned a lot from all this and i could not have done it without everyone's help. I want to thank each and everyone of you for all your patience and help it has been greatly appreciated. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.................
That’s awesome, gotta add this fix to my memory bank.
 
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