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Years a go my dad gave me a HF 800 watt generator to use boon-docking with my travel trailer. It sat in my garage for 6+ years with 3/4 of a tank of gas. A few months ago I drained the gas and thoroughly cleaned the carb (took everything apart) and put in some of my 2 cycle boat motor gas (mostly fresh). It started right up and ran well (I only tested it with a light) but it seemed to rev high. I would start it every few weeks to keep it from gumming up but the longer between starts the more difficult it would be to start (figured it is/was carb getting gummed up). In anticipation of needing to use it this summer I began starting it each week. A few weeks ago I spray cleaned the carb (no disassembly) and tried to adjust the RPMs. It got to the point where it would not start without starting fluid. I have drained the old gas and put in fresh non-ethanol 91 octane gas with a 50:1 oil mixture. The generator starts well now but will not keep running. I am at a loss for what I should do! Please help.
 

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In my impatience I decided to pull the carb and give it a good cleaning again. I did not see any issues with the carb but when I put the buterfly valve closest to the engine back on I noticed that it can be put on backwards. I did not remember that from the last time I pulled it apart so it is possible it had been on backwards. I also pulled the spark plug and noticed quite a bit of carbon and oil on the plug. It is a two cycle engine so I'm not concerned about the oil but the wet flakes of carbon seemed excessive. I cleaned the SP with carb cleaner and wiped of the carbon. When I put everything back together it started and runs well with the choke on (air off), when I turn the choke off (full air on) it runs for a while and dies - (maybe that is the SP or maybe I'm just not letting it warm up enough). I'll get a new SP and see how it does.
 

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If not an airleak behind the carb, you probably missed something. Not everyone has the same definition of a Throughly cleaned carb. Sometimes its best to replace the carb if you've tried a few times already. Ultrasonic cleaners are extremely effective but a good one is way more expensive then a basic carburetor.

If you wish to give it another shot, maybe detail what your process was and we can see if there is something to add.
 

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So the new spark plug might be helping but I'm still having problems. The generator will start and run well as long as the choke is on but as soon as I turn the choke off (even after letting it run for 5 minutes) the generator stalls.
 

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If not an airleak behind the carb, you probably missed something. Not everyone has the same definition of a Throughly cleaned carb. ...
So I dissembled everything I could on the carb, sprayed everything with choke carb cleaner and made sure that I sprayed each port and that the spray went through each port in both directions. I did reuse the carb gaskets.
 

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hey see this page for good ultrasonic units
the best cleaner in these carbs is unleaded gas..
it will not hurt the parts.
2cycle is tricky...
depending on the carb setup...
you could have a weak diaphragm for the pump...
is there still any parts kits for this unit??
you might call hf service guys and see if there is a carb kit..

I would ultrasonic it!! lots of hidden passages in there for air bleed etc.
I do them for 60 bucks with the return shipping included.
pm me on that.
you are better off buying a ultrasonic unit!!
you can clean all kinds of stuff in there!!
it is a cool tool to have in the shop.
from fishing gear to firearms to carbs!! they work well!!
 

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Ultrasonic cleaners really are awesome, I've had great luck with mine (a used eBay Branson 3510). It's cleaned around 8-10 carbs for me so far, as well as cleaning other items with small internals.

It has definitely paid for itself, IMO. I consider it something of a magic tool, which can clean things that other methods would struggle with.

Running a small wire through the openings, while cleaning, can also help. Preferably something soft, so you don't deform the openings. A single stand of copper wire, for instance. Or sometimes people use the wire from a bread twist tie.

Is it a diaphragm carb, or a float carb, for curiosity?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is a 2-cycle motor, there is no diaphragm in the carb, there is a float with a spring type needle valve that fills the bowl from the fuel supply.

I pulled the carb of to check the gaskets and possible air leak. The gaskets were not bad but they were not good either. There was some crud between the carb and reed valve body, between the reed valve body and the case, and between the reed valve plates themselves. I cleaned everything, stoned all the matting surfaces (no I did not stone the reed valve plates - just carefully wiped them down) and put in new gaskets but that did not change the way the generator runs. It still runs well with the choke on but stalls when I turn the choke off. I've ordered an ultrasonic cleaner so we will see how that works out. Maybe there is some internal port I am not getting to that is blocked.
 

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red it will be diaphragm as it is 2 cycle
Most of my 2-strokes are small (weed whacker, chainsaw, etc), and are diaphragm carbs. But my 2-stroke snowblower is a bigger engine (141cc), with a float carb, so they can be either type.

Good luck with the ultrasonic cleaner, hopefully it will help with getting deep inside. I use Simple Green HD (from Home Depot) as my cleaning solution. It's non-flammable, and is gentler on aluminum than regular Simple Green. I've had good results with it.

I use a heated bath (usually 60C), disassemble what I can of the carb, and usually give it an hour of cleaning time (I degas the tank first). I've done 2 hours for really dirty stuff. I figure it's quicker to give it a little more cleaning time, than to put it back together and realize it's still not ok. And I'm only doing this stuff as a "hobby", so speed is not really a factor.

Like the page that iowagold linked to, I fill the tank with hot water, and use a small glass jar of cleaning solution, with the parts in that. You use far less cleaning solution, and it keeps the actual tank clean. I have the jar raised so the water level in the jar is also at the Fill line for the tank. The cleaner should come with a shelf or something. Never rest things on the bottom of the tank, you can damage the ultrasonic transducers.
 

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my best story is with a Yamaha gen carb they do not come apart like the honda units.

3 runs with unleaded gasoline as the solvent it was spotless!!
I had the change out the gas as it was totally full of junk!!
it was a wow moment..
too hot of night to shoot video.. 105 deg during the day...
lol!!
so it was an outdoor clean job.
yea the plastic pnut butter jars work great!! just make sure they are super clean!!
never use glass in an ultrasonic cleaner.. ka pow!! lol!!
at least in the high power units.
the ones I have listed are good units
here is the link again
click here for the ultrasonic page
 

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3 runs with unleaded gasoline as the solvent it was spotless!!
...
never use glass in an ultrasonic cleaner.. ka pow!! lol!!
at least in the high power units.
I've heard you shouldn't use flammable liquids in an ultrasonic cleaner, due to a risk of fire. Or if you use something flammable, at least loosely cap the container with the flammable liquid, to contain fumes. But never seal a container that you clean in a heated bath, or the pressure buildup could break the container:
How to Safely Use Flammable Solutions in an Ultrasonic Cleaner

That's interesting that gas was an effective cleaner, thanks. I wouldn't have guessed that.

I have used my glass (salsa) jar multiple times without issue. Maybe it's a problem with really powerful units, but it hasn't been a problem with mine yet. I guess I could switch to plastic, but I'd seen suggestions of glass when I got it, so I started with that. One benefit, I suppose, is that's it's not bothered by the hot liquid.
 

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always use an ultrasonic cleaner unit outdoors
on a concrete pad or drive way away from buildings!

yea any sealed jars are not a good idea in any cleaner.. always balance the jar with the lid up with string etc.
yea the glass tends to beat against the metal and will break if it has a flaw in the glass...
lol the high fq will over excite and explode the glass..
the plastic pnut butter jars are rated for oils and work well!!
oh yea the unleaded gasoline is a real good solvent for the gasoline deposits!!
it just re dissolves the dyes back in to solution or breaks them up in small chunks and floats them out..
and you do need to use an air compressor with a blow tip to blow out the carb. after you are done..

I would ever use any other cleaning agents on carbs as most of them are salts or acids...
it just makes the problem worse..
the big one is simple green as a no no… even the air craft version..

stens makes a good carb solvent for ultrasonic... at $90 bucks a jug! wow!
but it is not as good as the unleaded gasoline.

one of the good solvents for metal hand tools like sockets grime is diesel fuel!
it works real good! that and a soft parts clean brush..
you can pre soak for a couple of days then let it have it with the ultra sonic for a 3 run time.
20-30 min at each run..
 

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I still haven't pulled the trigger on an ultrasonic cleaner but I'm feeling the itch again. I've invested so much in my new generator and enclosure that it will have to wait a bit still. But definitely need to add one to my bag of tricks.
 

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I still haven't pulled the trigger on an ultrasonic cleaner but I'm feeling the itch again. I've invested so much in my new generator and enclosure that it will have to wait a bit still. But definitely need to add one to my bag of tricks.
here is the ultrasonic page link again
ultrasonic page at poustusa

yea they are an investment... but worth every penny!!
make sure you never run them dry or with out water in the tank
and that it is full too the fill line before starting or powering it up. very important!

and I do not use any solvent direct in the tank..
always solvent in the plastic pnut butter jars...

I cooked some race car jets for a guy today..
lots of them!! lol he must to have had 50 track packs or more!
he stayed and watched... he could not believe the trash that was coming off the jets that looked clean..
they looked like brand new after the run..
and yes I used unleaded gasoline...
still no camera yet for you tube... the good low cost cameras are 400 bucks and up...
but still the ultrasonic messes with the mic audio...
I may have to run a compression limiter on the audio and clip the high fq out...
the go fund me is on the poust site as well as the paypal donate.
even small donations add up
www.poustusa.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #16
SUCCESS!
So I bought a cheep jewelry type ultrasonic cleaner on Amazon for $24 ( I know it is not a good option but i cant afford hundreds of $$ for a decent one so hold of on the suggestions about my cheep option.) I used gasoline as the cleaning agent and had to keep restarting because my cheep jewelry cleaner has a 3 minute timer. I ended up doing the process twice. The first time when I put it back together it started right up and when I turned the choke off it ran for about two or three minutes and then stalled. After that it was back to starting and running with the choke on but stalling as soon as I turned the choke off. So I cleaned it again and this time I put an in-line fuel filter on it. It started well and ran well when I turned of the choke. I let it run for 5 plus minutes while I cleaned up my mess (I had a timer going) and it did not shut off until I turned it off. I'm hopping the in-line filter was the key. I will test it with a load and for a longer length of time later. Thank you for all your help and suggestions.
 

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No suggestions on your cheap option :) Awesome, I'm glad you got one, they're a really helpful tool. And that's great you were able to get it running!

I haven't had real success with cleaning carbs by running Seafoam, etc, through them, but it's worth a shot, if you have some around. It shouldn't cause any harm, and might help clean things out a bit more.

Hopefully it still runs ok as you put a load on it, which should force it to run on the main jet, vs the idle-throttle jet.
 

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hey red see my ultrasonic page
yea the high power units do a better clean job..
and unleaded gasoline for the solvent rocks as a carb cleaner!
the trick is to use water in the ultrasonic machine
and use ultra clean plastic Pnut butter jars for the gasoline and the carb.
burp the jars carefully..

i am still working on a vented lid idea and a jar holder to keep it submerged but floating in the water..
and you want to change out the gasoline every 10 to 15 min of run time if the carb is super dirty...
all of the instructions are on
 

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For sous vide cooking, some people use Mason jars submerged in the heated water, with the 2-piece lids. The flat lid, and the screw-on ring. They set the screw-on ring just fingertip-tight.

It's enough contact that water doesn't leak into the jar (which has the food in it), but loose enough that the heated air in the jar can expand and vent/escape.

I've done this successfully, cooking at around 180F/80C, so high temperature isn't a problem, and Mason jars are pretty solid. Certainly stronger than the glass salsa jar I usually use for ultrasonic cleaning.

I wonder if something like that could work for you. It might take care of the venting, then you just need to keep the jar submerged (if that's important). Admittedly, I don't know if gasoline might attack the flat-lid seal, but it's easy enough to find out.
 

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For sous vide cooking, some people use Mason jars submerged in the heated water, with the 2-piece lids. The flat lid, and the screw-on ring. They set the screw-on ring just fingertip-tight.

It's enough contact that water doesn't leak into the jar (which has the food in it), but loose enough that the heated air in the jar can expand and vent/escape.

I've done this successfully, cooking at around 180F/80C, so high temperature isn't a problem, and Mason jars are pretty solid. Certainly stronger than the glass salsa jar I usually use for ultrasonic cleaning.

I wonder if something like that could work for you. It might take care of the venting, then you just need to keep the jar submerged (if that's important). Admittedly, I don't know if gasoline might attack the flat-lid seal, but it's easy enough to find out.
glass in an ultrasonic unit is a bad idea..
the metal carb can rattle the glass to break...
as well as if the fq is just right any scratches and defects in the glass and it will explode.

not sure on the mason lids seals and gasoline...
that is easy to test!!
soak in gasoline the wipe the seal with a white paper towel
if you get seal red on the paper towel..
then it is eating the seal.

i have been thinking duck bill..
i have a bunch of those one way style units..
drill a hole in the lid and push from the inside to out.
they seal well.
 
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