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Predator 3500 Digital Display Issue

For some reason my display on the front of the generator is not displaying that andy volts or amps are being produced or drawn... But I have multiple appliances plugged in and working perfectly... The display lights up and shows hours and the hour glass icon (indicating normal operation) but not reading/showing the draw or output for volts or amps.....?!?!? anyone ever come across this. I even took off the panel and made sure all the connections are good. All good and still looks new... It has 105 hours on it o far.
 

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I'm curious what the opinion is on the vented oil fill doors. Some folks insist that the negative pressure somehow cools the inverter. I'm having a hard time figuring that out - I get that the inverter electronics are near the intake underneath, but it seems like as long as there is still somewhat a vacuum that it should be fine with the vented door. Thoughts?
 

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all of the closed cased inverter gens are designed for a wind tunnel style inside...
with that said... it is a pain in the but some times!! lol!!
it messes with the air fuel ratio on the gens as the neg pressure inside the case where the air intake is messes with the carb air...
on an older I think it was 2002 or 2003 honda eu 1000 with the issue I had I cured this by making a hole in the side door to the intake air box hole that was there from the factory and then used good foam seal on the cover to the air box.
and did a grommet for an finale on the cover hole.
it looked real good when I was done.
and worked like a champ!!

they symptom for this change was it would run ok with the case side cover off but would lope and try to die with it on..
brand new carb so the carb was not the issue.
I did measure the neg pressure in the case there was way too much suction in the case...

so epa regs have something to do with this.. that clean burn issue.
they try to keep the engine and intake air as warm as they can..

most of the Hondas do not work right unless the covers are on and doors closed.
 

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Predator 3500 Digital Display Issue

For some reason my display on the front of the generator is not displaying that andy volts or amps are being produced or drawn... But I have multiple appliances plugged in and working perfectly... The display lights up and shows hours and the hour glass icon (indicating normal operation) but not reading/showing the draw or output for volts or amps.....?!?!? anyone ever come across this. I even took off the panel and made sure all the connections are good. All good and still looks new... It has 105 hours on it o far.
Did you find out the issue with your display?
 

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I have extensive experience cleaning and tuning the carb on the HF Predator 3500 if anyone has any questions.
Also, it has a stepper motor that controls the engine speeds under load and on ECO throttle etc. Same as the Honda Eu3000is
SO here is my problem. I bought the 3500 last spring and had to use it 4 or 5 times due to commercial power going out and also using it to provide light to a she. Easy Start and now problems. After the last time I used it in October, I filled it with gas and added the appropriate amount of Stabil. Due to an injury that limited my mobility, I didn't start it over the winter. Went to start it about 3 weeks ag. It cranks but doesn't start. Given that I treated the fuel ( and did the oil changes as required) any idea what the problem might be? I have good compression. When I tried to start it, it was still in the 40's outside. Now that it's warmed-up a bit, do yo think it may be more likely to start?
 

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well run down the check list first;
does it have gasoline in the fuel tank
did you turn on the fuel valve
check the fuel drain in the bottom of the carb bowl for water
does the gasoline flow well when the bowl is removed?
does it have spark a spark tester is good for this check.
tools are on this page
and ultra sonic pages are here if the carb is in bad shape and needs cleaned
 

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Thanks!
well run down the check list first;
does it have gasoline in the fuel tank
did you turn on the fuel valve
check the fuel drain in the bottom of the carb bowl for water
does the gasoline flow well when the bowl is removed?
does it have spark a spark tester is good for this check.
tools are on this page
and ultra sonic pages are here if the carb is in bad shape and needs cleaned
Thanks!
 

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New member here, but decades long forum user, hello all!

I wanted to post this here since this is the top google search result for 'Predator 3500 forum'

I bought my generator in July 2018 with the 2 year extended warranty, to power my brand new camper at the racetrack - I go to Motorcycle, Nascar Xfinity, Trans-Am, IndyCar, NASA / SCCA and Vintage racing event that are four days long. The generator stands now at 441 hours on the clock. It's always run great until I got it out 2 weeks ago...

A little back story - I broke this generator in with Mobil Super 5000 10w-30 conventional oil, changed at 2h/5h/18h. I ran that same conventional oil for my first real race weekend in August 2018, ended up at about 75 hours, then I switched to Mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic. I service it every 60-100 hours - change the oil, remove the spark arrestor, and clean both pieces with a propane torch and air compressor, clean and re-oil air filter. I put the recommended NGK plug in it when first got it. Never seize and dielectric, of course. Generator is stock, no charcoal canister delete, no oil door air mods. Totally stock. I'm in Ohio at about 1000AGL and use the generator between 45F and 95F.

So anyway, two weeks ago, I fired it up and ran the camper AC for 15 minutes in my driveway to make sure all was well before I left for the race weekend the next day. It pulled the AC fine and seemed to be running great, like it always has, until I shut off the AC. With little to no load it had a distinct surge, rev up, slow down, etc. It was much more pronounced in ESC on / ECO mode. I ran the AC again and it was fine under load, perfectly smooth. I chalked it up to last years fuel that was in it, and figured it would clear up once I filled it. I carry two 5 gallon translucent motocross style fuel jugs to the track, and I always use Sunoco 93 octane, and treat with Star-Tron fuel treatment. Same fuel procedure the whole time I've owned it.

So before I left for the races, I changed the oil, popped in a fresh NGK plug, cleaned and oiled the air filter. No change still running rough under light load only.

So I get to the track and even after it used all the old fuel and I filled it with fresh treated 93 octane, it was the same story - ran perfectly normal under heavy load, but sounded pretty sad under light or no load, idle constantly hunting, rev up, stumble, rev-up... Yuck! I found that cracking the fuel cap helped it run a little smoother but still it clearly wasn't happy. I put about 40 hours on it that weekend. I was assuming I'd have to pull the carburetor and clean it up...

So I get home from the races and sat down to work on it. I hit the starter button. NOTHING! Pull battery put the meter on it, and it's at 12.95v. Hit the starter button again, nothing no crank, no click nothing. I was so surprised I couldn't believe it. I figured a wire had to have vibrated lose on the control panel. So, I pulled the cord and it fired right up first pull. It was running the same, poor at idle. I shut it off and a bit later decided to try the electric start again, this time I got a click but it wouldn't turn it over. At this point I am like oh man what has happened to my once great generator! I was so frustrated. I am still within my two year extended warranty, but I know I got a good generator, 441 hours of proof. I hated the thought of getting a bad one on exchange, but I was considering it...

I decided to take the right side cover off, where the pull cord is as I knew the starter and starter solenoid is on that side, because I had to replace the starter solenoid within the first 30 days of ownership back in 2018. No big deal. Anyway - as soon as I pulled that cover, my eyes were drawn to the small 1" x 4" epoxy potted electrical box mounted to the bottom of the frame. At first glance the surface of it looked slightly melted! Upon closer inspection it had a small amount of engine oil pooled up in it, and the areas that looked 'burnt or melted' were just bits of grass or debris trapped in the oil. And that oil had wicked up into the square 4 pin molex connector also!

I checked the Harbor Freight parts list, it's part 120 labeled as 'LIGHTER' and it's not available. I looked at the Northern Tool parts list, it not available there either and they call it 'IGNITION'...

I pulled the screws that secure it, and sprayed it down with electrical contact cleaner, dried it off, and it looks perfect. It was absolutely not melted or burnt at all thank god. I sprayed out both sides of the molex connector as well, used air to dry it up, and put everything back together.

I hit the electric start, it fired up instantly, and the generator IS NOW RUNNING PERFECTLY!! Wow! Perfect idle with no load, just like always, and still runs perfect under heavy load.

I was totally shocked that this was the cause of all my issues! That oil must have been shorting some of the contacts together intermittently, and causing the stepper motor that runs the throttle on the carb to wander, causing the poor up and down idle under light load. It was also interfering with the electric start, as I have started and stopped it about 10 times since with no further issues with the electric start. I keep starting it and running it for about 10 minutes using a big 52" belt drive drum fan for heavier load (7A), and a small floor fan for light load (1.5A).

I am convinced it is all 100% fixed. Wow. Oil in a molex connector caused all that crazyness, who would have though it...

The part number on the electrical box in question is:

TJ113-2009-1
180303

If you google that what comes up is extremely similar, has the same large capacitor, and several smaller caps, but it doesn't have the right number of wires. But the part is called an AVR - automatic voltage regulator rectifier.

So I think the oil was causing the voltage to fluctuate intermittently, so the stepper motor was reacting to that, and thus causing the idle to wander to chase an apparent electrical load that appeared to be coming and going, but which wasn't really there.

In all the researching i did prior to starting to chase down this problem - YouTube videos, forum posts - absolutely no one noted this issue. So I wanted to get this info out there for the community of Predator 3500 owners!

The only remaining question is how the oil got there. I can't answer that.

I've included two pics, one of the location of this box in the frame, and one of the box with the oil and debris in it before I cleaned it. I don't have a pic of it after I cleaned it up, but it looked perfect after clean up.

Here is a YouTube video of how terrible it was running with no load before the fix. I hope I never have to hear it run like this ever again! : )


7918


7919
 

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Just keep this in mind.......


The more air you allow into the housing of the generator, the less that goes to cooling the cylinder head.


You could potentially cause it to severely overheat.
And also you can reduce the airflow over the inverter heat sink if you put to many extra air vents in the case. With that said the 3500s do seem to run rich most of the time - I think they may have jetted the carb without the case in the picture so that when the complete genny is assembled the fuel mixture is too rich due to the restricted air intake. But that's just a guess...if anyone has a fix for this please let me know! Thanks
 

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And also you can reduce the airflow over the inverter heat sink if you put to many extra air vents in the case. With that said the 3500s do seem to run rich most of the time - I think they may have jetted the carb without the case in the picture so that when the complete genny is assembled the fuel mixture is too rich due to the restricted air intake. But that's just a guess...if anyone has a fix for this please let me know! Thanks
Update - Thanks to info in another post on this forum I discovered that I have one of those air filter covers WITHOUT any air inlet holes in it! Removing the cover for a test run solved my genny running rich and unevenly problems - it has never run this smoothly since I bought it almost two years ago! Also, now when the AC compressor kicks in it handles the change in load much more smoothly than before.

I've also removed the spark arrestor and internal "cone", both of which were completely clogged up with soot from the 190 hours of rich running! This also explains why I've had to change spark plugs every 30 to 40 hours of running due to them getting fouled.

Looking forward to a much better experience in the future with this genny! Fairly confident that once I drill some inlet holes in the air cleaner cover and clean or replace the spark arrestor it will run better than ever! Really helps an engine to be able to get sufficient air in and the exhaust out! I'm actually shocked that it ran as well as it has considering the air filter cover issue as the only air getting in was through the charcoal cannister hose. (But I did have a very clean air filter, even after two years - mainly because no air was going through it!)
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the generator is running rich, more fumes would enter the charcoal canister, thus, causing more spark plug fouling. I consulted my dad on this, he said, "it needs more air!". So, I got one of those vented oil access doors and seems much better. I may also add some of the round ones to the side panels. Air is Life! (t-shirts anyone?)
Question - how would fumes due to rich running get into the canister? I think the only inlets are from the stand pipe in the fuel tank and an open port inside the generator case. So unless the exhaust fumes recirculate through the case and into the open port there's not a path for them. The hose from the valve cover goes directly to the air cleaner housing so it never connects to the charcoal canister. Am I missing something here?
 

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I have extensive experience cleaning and tuning the carb on the HF Predator 3500 if anyone has any questions.
Also, it has a stepper motor that controls the engine speeds under load and on ECO throttle etc. Same as the Honda Eu3000is
Predator - could you post a picture of the air cleaner cover on the Predator 3500 please. The one already posted by Mike5511 doesn't show enough of the cover for me to understand where the openings are supposed to be exactly. My cover has no openings at all except the fitting for the charcoal canister hose! Are the openings on the stationary filter housing instead of the removable cover maybe? I didn't look for them there. Thanks.
 
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