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IIRC, it goes nowhere...just like you have it in the photo. Just a vent.
Congrats on the new Genny. Feels great to know you have that clean quiet power available if you need it right?
I got it to have quiet power at
horse shows, mainly going to use it to power a 13,500 AC and a small fridge in the trailer. Once it’s completely broken in I’ll test it on another trailer with a full LQ. Any idea what the hole is for on the engine of the line itself is just a vent?
 

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Probably a semi clogged jet.
Remove the carb, disassemble and thoroughly clean the jets paying special attention to the jet on the top side, back near the little round electric motor.

I recommend you get one of those jet cleaning tools off ebay etc for $5.00

Removal is straight forward. I think I have a video on it somewhere. Easy job.
Predator, thanks for the input. I was guessing that it was probably a partially clogged jet. Being that almost all of my–engines save for my pressure washer–don't have governors, I wanted to eliminate that as a cause. I have a K&L jet cleaning set I use on motorcycles that I will put to use. If you can find that video of the carb. removal I would appreciate it.
 

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Update

As Predator suspected a plugged orifice:) When I pulled the carb and blew out the passages (pulled the main jet) I found two rather large bits of plastic in the float bowl. It sure looks to me like plastic from the seam of the gas tank. Not sure what passage was obstructed, but something sure was. Anyway, buttoned it up and no more surging without a load on eco. Runs great. Seems like some easy QC would have gone a long way here.

FWIW, I use 10% ethanol in my small engines (two and four stroke) with Sta-bil added, and have never had any problem with gumming or varnish. When it comes time to fire up the MX smoker every year, mine fires right up. My buddy, who stupidly who doesn't use Sta-bil (out of stubbornness or stupidity, not sure which) pulls his carb every year and cleans out green muck. Then says, "Shoulda used Sta-bil." It's not a coincidence, it's three years running!
 

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Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
As Predator suspected a plugged orifice:) When I pulled the carb and blew out the passages (pulled the main jet) I found two rather large bits of plastic in the float bowl. It sure looks to me like plastic from the seam of the gas tank. Not sure what passage was obstructed, but something sure was. Anyway, buttoned it up and no more surging without a load on eco. Runs great. Seems like some easy QC would have gone a long way here.

FWIW, I use 10% ethanol in my small engines (two and four stroke) with Sta-bil added, and have never had any problem with gumming or varnish. When it comes time to fire up the MX smoker every year, mine fires right up. My buddy, who stupidly who doesn't use Sta-bil (out of stubbornness or stupidity, not sure which) pulls his carb every year and cleans out green muck. Then says, "Shoulda used Sta-bil." It's not a coincidence, it's three years running!

Congrats on getting her running right again :tango_face_smile:
Odd about the plastic in the system. Haven't seen that with mine or heard of it before.


There's a WaWa gas stating nearby that just opened and they're carrying ethanol free fuel so that's what's going in my generators now. Right off the bat they seem to run better. Since ther's no ethanol, that makes sense. Gasoline burns better. More energy for the same volume of E10 etc. Engines prefer to run on gasoline, not sugar haha.


Never invested the $140 in the extended warranty....and the 2 years came and went with no issues. My thinking was I had 30 days to buy the extended warranty. Run it good in that 30 days...if no problems it's probably good to go. If there was a problem later, I still had the $140 to spend on parts as necessary.
 

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Getting Predator 3500 to run properly

I use generators a lot, and this is a good size for me. I got it with only 15 hours and a new oil change on it. It has had a number of problems. I am in California, so my version has the CARB stuff on it. Also, my version has the extra vents in the oil add door, which helps solve the 'starving for air' problem. I have taken a few actions to remedy the problems with this generator, and now it runs pretty well. This is what I did:
1. First I had to remove the spark arrestor. That little thing is a joke, and because the engine tended to run rich, this had to be solved.
2. I replaced the plug first with Bosch, then with an NGK plug. I am not sure that this was needed, but it is OK for the price.
Most of my problems were carburetion.
3. I disconnected the charcoal canister, and the vent line from the standpipe in the fuel tank and capped off the standpipe with a rubber cap obtained as described by others. That standpipe and the canister are a MAJOR problem. You MUST fix this.
4. I drilled two 3/32" holes in the cap for a vent for the fuel tank. Once you cap off the problematic standpipe, you MUST create a vent in the fuel tank.
5. I put a Honda carb on it in place of the original. They are bolt compatible and pretty similar. I had to swap out the little gear-reduced stepper motor on top of the Honda carb with the original stepper motor, due to the different contacts and cable. The two stepper motors are interchangeable physically in mounting and the drive shaft. I am not totally sure whether it was necessary to replace the carb, but everyone knows that Hondas don't have all of the carb problems of this unit. I used a genuine Honda carb designed for their Eu3000 is, which is the machine that the Predator 3500 is modeled after.
Now my Predator 3500 ALWAYS starts like a Honda and runs fine in all temperatures, including freezing, but we don't get 20 below here.
6. I also had to make a wooden plate with blocks to keep this unit from moving due to vibration. The wheel locks are not very good.
7. I also keep this unit inside a shed (with doors open) to shield it from rain, etc. in winter, so I welded a short piece of flex auto exhaust pipe onto the exhaust to allow the unit to keep a few inches from the shed wall, but exhaust outside the shed via a hole in the wall and the extra exhaust pipe.
So far I have over 2200 hours on this, and it runs pretty well nowadays.
Generators have become pretty important in Northern California ever since PG&E decided to go rogue.
 

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Its amazing years ago like 20 -30 odd years, you could only dream of owning a half decent generator, as there was no internet and if there were you couldnt buy much online in those days. The only generators you saw if any were in expensive machinery stores and cost a small fortune.

Thats the time I could of done with a generator as my power was always going off. But now that they are widely available at a much lower cost, but the power in the united kingdom uk where I live, is quite stable now... Typical!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
Generators have become pretty important in Northern California ever since PG&E decided to go rogue.

From what I've been told by family members living in California is that it's not P&G's fault so much as the restrictions and regulations they are forced to adhere to.
I know of NO place where power lines are guaranteed to stay in place amid 70+ mph winds.


But yeah, generators are probably selling like crazy in California. Maybe they'll out law gasoline though. It's California. You never know.
Actually, I could see CA mandating only "all electric" generators. You'd have to charge them up, before you could use them.
 

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Hi. First post.


I just got a Predator 3500. I did the charcoal canister delete. There's a little red warning bar in the filler neck, but knowing me, I'll overfill it. What's nice is that it's reversible.


It's running in the driveway as I type. I just put a little fuel in, and it just keeps on going.


I'd like to find a cap for it with a built in valve, like my Honda 2000. I found a part number for a EU3000, 17620-Z28-000 , but I found no pictures. It's likely that Honda also went the evap route as well. It'd be nice if I could actually find one and it did indeed fit.



I bought (another) 1.25 amp Battery Tender and I attached the lead to the battery and snuck it out the battery door. It bulges a little, but not bad. It's easy to plug in the charger and keep the battery charged.


Getting the fever from YouTube, I bought the parts for remote start. The parts aren't that expensive, but you do have to drill holes (not reversible). I'm not sure if I'd really use it that much either.


I put the thing on a movers dolly, also from HF. Put some wood blocking on it so it wouldn't roll, and zip tied it down. The wheels swivel, and it'd be easy to replace if it crapped out. Also, maybe enough room to drain the oil(?).


I ordered a cheapo silver cover.


What I'd like to do is see what the load is from the comfort of my home. I have an old Energy Detective that I use to monitor normal power use, but it requires two legs. I've connected it up to a generator, but with only one leg, I'm not sure how to translate readings (I have a feeling the square root of three is involved, or something like that.)


Hey, it just stopped. :)


I might put a switch on it so that the off rotary position shuts off fuel but not necessarily spark, which would be controlled by that switch. Again, cutting a hole, but what the heck. I'm not so sure how much I'd use that either. I store my units dry, and siphon the fuel out of the tank and drain the residual fuel with the petcock and hose. Panel has to be removed, and the first thing I broke already was one of the little posts on the cover. Super glue might work, I'm doubtful.


Anyway, thanks for the ideas. I'm sure they're mostly getting me in trouble.
 

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Well, I got over my fever. :)


That Honda cap from an EU3000 with the vent lever didn't fit. So, I guess I'll be cracking it open and securing with a piece of tape or wedge when running and cooling down.



As I was fitting up the choke actuator, I strung the connecting wire too tight. The entire unit moved when it energized, since one end is attached to the stationary frame, isolated by the rubber vibration dampers. Anyway, that got me to thinking: why do I really need remote start? I don't. It's for use during power outages, and I'll likely want to disconnect/reconnect the load, refuel, etc.


So, except for the spark arrester and evap deletes, and the Battery Tender cable in the battery compartment (connector sticks out), and the dolly, I'm leaving it alone...for now.


I'd still like to find a way to accurately remotely read the load on this 125v. genny remotely, as I have it feeding the panel through an existing interlock device and house input plug.


PS: The super glue is still holding on the broken post, knock on wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Under some circumstances, a cover can accelerate corrosion. If it traps moisture underneath, you're better off just keeping it out of the rain, but in the open.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
It's in the garage, so I think it'll be ok. Gets dusty in there at times.

For some strange reason I thought you were keeping it outdoors......my bad.



Great little generator imo.


I've had mine for 2.5 years now. Fortunately, we haven't had any power outages in that time. But I'm expecting an increase in them soon.
 

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I've had mine for 2.5 years now. Fortunately, we haven't had any power outages in that time. But I'm expecting an increase in them soon.
Typical hey,, I bought my first 2800watt honda clone generator at the beginning of the year and Im still waiting for a powercut, to properly test it out
 

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Regarding the fuel cap on a de-CARBed unit...


-I haven't been able to find a vented cap that fits; a cap with a lever like the eu2000i would be ideal, to me. Searching can cost $.

-Maybe an extended cap with a valve of some type (check valve) to allow the tank to breathe
-Downside could be high profile that wouldn't allow a piece of plywood, for example, to be laid on top

-Wedging something under the cap to keep it cracked open, like a twist off soda bottle top
-And, in my latest, wrap Teflon pipe tape around the tank's threads to make the cap harder to turn, and vibrate open/close. I don't know how long lasting this will be.
 
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