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Hey, so I pulled the trigger on a second EU7000. Both units fit nicely in the enclosure I built last year. I have 6 gauge cable running from my inlet box. But need to update other parts of the system. I want to feel out some options and get some opinions.

1. Inlet box.… Got to install a 50amp inlet box. There are basically two flavors. One is a plug on the front, has a waterproof flip cover, and metal construction. The second is a down facing plug. I personally like the down facing design because I keep my cable plugged in permanently and I find it to better suited for water intrusion. The down facing variant is more money, it’s in low supply At the moment, and Ive only seen it in plastic.



The question... Anyone know of a Metal 50amp down facing inlet box?


2. Parallel ”kit”… Honda’s parallel kit is a comprehensive device but I’m exploring other options. Honda’s kit Has a slick parallel port connector, it’s a one piece, 3 pin connector eliminating the chance of mixing up connectors between machines. It has 2 analog wattage meters, a double pole 50amp circuit breaker and a 50 amp twistlock receptacle (cs6364). Its also designed to mount right on top of one of the generators. It’s also $330.

I’m not entirely thrilled with the Honda kit. It’s a bulky bolted on metal box that pretty much needs to be mounted to one of the generators. One cable is very short and the other long, plus I think I might prefer a More common 14-50 receptacle. So I’m exploring other options.

1. Make my own 4 conductor Parallel cables tying the generators together, And replacing the l14-30 on one generator with a cs6364 or 14-50r.

2. Build my own parallel “kit”. 4 conductor cables tied to a receptacle box. With greater mounting flexibility. I can add meters, a breaker, and can have both a cs6364 and 14-50r.

3. Of course I can always Pony up for a Honda kit, make an adaptor cord that goes from cs6364 to 14-50 just incase, and stop making more work for myself.

4. Open to suggestions.

At the moment I have some 4mm female to female banana plug adaptors and 2 sets of eu2000/2200 parallel cables A decent temporary solution.

View attachment 9714
Cant speak to the parallel options but i have used that reliance generator inlet box ( the vertical one with the plug underneath) and compared to the metal ones with the Hz plug - i like the reliance better. There is a lot of room in the reliance box to make the connections to the plug and when anchored securely to the wall..its very sturdy...which was surprising as its made form plastic where as all of the Hz ones i've seen are metal. You are right in the cost however...i recall paying over a hundred where as many of the other options are around 50 now.
Personally speaking - worth the money...i am a reliance fan.
 

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iowagold said:
so are you just switching between two water heaters or on the elements of the main hot water heater?
No to both. Voltage is switched from 240 to 120. Watts automatically change from 4500 to 1125.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 · (Edited)
ahh so you are just running a 240 vac element on 120 vac?
That’s what I was figuring as I was scratching my head about it. Resistive load so as long as a neutral is present to complete the circuit I guess there is no reason it shouldn’t heat up. Im still uncertain of the actual wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 · (Edited)
Here we go, neat idea, this is perfect for my father in laws house. He’s ditching his oil water heater for an electric, and now his pair of eu2000s can run his water heater and furnace.
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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
I finally had some time this weekend to upgrade my inlet to 50amp components. I ran 6/3 NM-B when I was building the new enclosure and adding a sub panel to my main panel. So that last things to tick off the list was the inlet box, 50amp breaker and I added a proper Cutler hammer hold down bracket as well.

I have alot more tidying of the cords to do. I’m not exactly sure how I want to improve the routing of things but it’s a process. I added a second RV style cable pass through to accommodate the number of cords I having and the bump in diameter of the power cord. And speaking of cords, the southwire 50ft 6/3-8/1 SEOOW cord with Hubble ends is definitely a massive value. The only caveat SEOOW is notably less flexible then SOOW. But… Its poly/rubber jacket is way more durable then standard SOOW.

Im either going to cut the cord at a more appropriate length for the enclosure or maybe get a cord reel that can accommodate 6/4 but they look PRICY.

Side note, I ran out of time but I have the Honda parallel kit to install, for now I have a short adapter whip to go from the CS twist lock to the l14-30 for the moment.

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I wonder if the 30A breaker on the generator will open if you try to start the HVAC unit configured as is?
Nope, I ran my AC and electric dryer (plus fridges and lights) with that temporary parallel cable and 30 amp everything with no issue. I was hovering around ~25amps.
 

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hey dr an idea on the honda kit
do some sort of mounting to the quiet box enclosure and not mount to the gen as honda designed.
for a fast way to disconnect for service.
all you have to do is reach the honda para connectors on the gen set.
how long are the tails now on the late model para kits?
they were talking about making the tails longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
hey dr an idea on the honda kit
do some sort of mounting to the quiet box enclosure and not mount to the gen as honda designed.
for a fast way to disconnect for service.
all you have to do is reach the honda para connectors on the gen set.
how long are the tails now on the late model para kits?
they were talking about making the tails longer.
Yes Indeed. It’s a potential option as I continue to develop the enclosure. For now the focus is to get things operational and see where functional improvements can be made.

One of the leads is short. Just enough to reach the generator that the unit is mounted to. It can certainly be extended in the future.

The next move is to continue to improve gen A’s propane operation. I’m looking forward to digging back in and installing the lockout and primer solenoids. I’ll update that on my other thread When I get around to it.

I have one unused wire in the 18/8 cord that leads to my remote control In the house. Any idea if a basic inductive tachometer will work ok with the lead extended 35 feet? I Might have to test for that one.
 

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or do a camera in the shed on the control panel or have remote temp sensors etc on one area and then have the wifi camera show the whole thing.
that could be done to the BIG tv in the house. or ipad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
or do a camera in the shed on the control panel or have remote temp sensors etc on one area and then have the wifi camera show the whole thing.
that could be done to the BIG tv in the house. or ipad.
YES, I’ve been thinking about a WiFi cam to monitor things. Not necessarily a permanent fixture but for some testing.

I have a 4 sensor (thermocouple) temperature meter for probing key spots on gen A and the enclosure. I plan to do a summer test next year. Both generators running at rated load on a 90degree day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Also, I measured the leads off the parallel kit They are 14” and 68” to from the box to the plug.
 

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do the new eu7000i honda para kit gen side connection ends come apart or are they potted?
 
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