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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, so I pulled the trigger on a second EU7000. Both units fit nicely in the enclosure I built last year. I have 6 gauge cable running from my inlet box. But need to update other parts of the system. I want to feel out some options and get some opinions.

1. Inlet box.… Got to install a 50amp inlet box. There are basically two flavors. One is a plug on the front, has a waterproof flip cover, and metal construction. The second is a down facing plug. I personally like the down facing design because I keep my cable plugged in permanently and I find it to better suited for water intrusion. The down facing variant is more money, it’s in low supply At the moment, and Ive only seen it in plastic.



The question... Anyone know of a Metal 50amp down facing inlet box?


2. Parallel ”kit”… Honda’s parallel kit is a comprehensive device but I’m exploring other options. Honda’s kit Has a slick parallel port connector, it’s a one piece, 3 pin connector eliminating the chance of mixing up connectors between machines. It has 2 analog wattage meters, a double pole 50amp circuit breaker and a 50 amp twistlock receptacle (cs6364). Its also designed to mount right on top of one of the generators. It’s also $330.

I’m not entirely thrilled with the Honda kit. It’s a bulky bolted on metal box that pretty much needs to be mounted to one of the generators. One cable is very short and the other long, plus I think I might prefer a More common 14-50 receptacle. So I’m exploring other options.

1. Make my own 4 conductor Parallel cables tying the generators together, And replacing the l14-30 on one generator with a cs6364 or 14-50r.

2. Build my own parallel “kit”. 4 conductor cables tied to a receptacle box. With greater mounting flexibility. I can add meters, a breaker, and can have both a cs6364 and 14-50r.

3. Of course I can always Pony up for a Honda kit, make an adaptor cord that goes from cs6364 to 14-50 just incase, and stop making more work for myself.

4. Open to suggestions.

At the moment I have some 4mm female to female banana plug adaptors and 2 sets of eu2000/2200 parallel cables A decent temporary solution.

9714
 

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a couple of ways to get there on the plug issue.
a bit of jb weld water white putty and form over the qty 3) 4mm plugs... L1, L2, N,
hint use a plastic zip bag to help on this...
pm if you have questions or need links for parts..
run the qty 2 8/4 soow cable to the outlet junction box
that can be wall mounted...
at that point then run the 2 meters one for L1 the other for L2 as a joined output...
the individual power can be watched on the onboard meters on the gens.

we use 6/4 wire to the house interlock panel and use a 60 amp duplex breaker.
this is for a 240v para 2 gens on the eu7000is gens.

if you only need 120 vac on the system then you can run the gens in the 120 vac mode.
and there is less chance of an unbalanced load.
that is most important when you are dealing with these smaller gens to have a balanced load.
 

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out of stock fly
they say rain tite.... but it is cheap made....
air gaps on the sheet metal...
and no flip cover for the inlet.

one of the mfg had a cast aluminum setup that was like the plastic units now out there.
not sure if it was carlon....
 

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Beautiful setup there. Do you have a way to measure temperature inside the enclosure? Will you be converting the second Honda to natural gas? I would choose option 3...buy the Honda kit and get a down facing input box that will handle 50A plug. You can sometimes find out of stock items on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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I was reading your other thread on the enclosure build. How did your EasyStart work out on the 3.5 ton HVAC? What was the inrush reduction? Do you have a TXV in the system? Did your single Honda start the unit? The inrush on my 4-ton is in the mid-50s with the EasyStart...not sure I even want to try that on my EU7000is. Running current is only 14A.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Beautiful setup there. Do you have a way to measure temperature inside the enclosure? Will you be converting the second Honda to natural gas? I would choose option 3...buy the Honda kit and get a down facing input box that will handle 50A plug. You can sometimes find out of stock items on ebay.
Thank you, I have a wireless thermometer in the enclosure for keeping an eye on temps. I also have a hand held 4 sensor temp gauge laying on the generator on the right. I have it monitoring intake air temp in the front of the unit, inverter temp and exhaust vent air temp. I haven’t decided what to measure with the forth thermocouple yet.

Im on propane, 500gal buried tank. I don’t think I’m going to covert this one. At least not anytime soon.

Good suggestion with looking on eBay. I actually just found a metal down facing 50amp inlet box by Connecticut electric. 70bucks looks a lot like the Generac style inlet.

I also just came across one from Midwest electric, carbon copy of the GE one I reference just a minute ago, lol. They must have made it for GE. This one is an inuse box that nicely protects the plug and is lockable…
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was reading your other thread on the enclosure build. How did your EasyStart work out on the 3.5 ton HVAC? What was the inrush reduction? Do you have a TXV in the system? Did your single Honda start the unit? The inrush on my 4-ton is in the mid-50s with the EasyStart...not sure I even want to try that on my EU7000is. Running current is only 14A.
The easy start reduced my inrush substantially. No TXV, it has piston style metering valves. Rated LRA is 120 but my aging compressor measured 130amps, it dropped to ~60amps with the easy start. A 5-2-1 only brought it down to just under 120amps. My single eu7000 could not start the compressor. I took a bunch of videos with meters measuring voltage on both legs. The result was an under voltage that caused the micro air to fault out. I was in touch with an engineer from micro air who was fantastic. We tried a couple things but ultimately the compressor is past it’s prime and a single 7000 couldn’t start it. But, if I paralleled my eu2000 with the eu7000 the AC started and ran no problem. My best result was with the eu2000 hooked into L1 on the eu7000.
 

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The easy start reduced my inrush substantially. No TXV, it has piston style metering valves. Rated LRA is 120 but my aging compressor measured 130amps, it dropped to ~60amps with the easy start. A 5-2-1 only brought it down to just under 120amps. My single eu7000 could not start the compressor. I took a bunch of videos with meters measuring voltage on both legs. The result was an under voltage that caused the micro air to fault out. I was in touch with an engineer from micro air who was fantastic. We tried a couple things but ultimately the compressor is past it’s prime and a single 7000 couldn’t start it. But, if I paralleled my eu2000 with the eu7000 the AC started and ran no problem. My best result was with the eu2000 hooked into L1 on the eu7000.
Good to know...my 4-ton is probably out then unless I get a second generator to parallel with the Honda. Don't think I will do that any time soon though. If we have a long outage when it's hot, we'll move into the basement for the duration and use the mini-split to keep cool.
 

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I noticed that some parallel kits have a set of extra outlets with two sets of cables that plug in to the inverters. Other kits is all wires and simply connect the inverters to each other with no additional outlets. I'm considering paralleling my Wen and Champion inverters but I don't know how each style of parallel kit works and what they do. The just-wires kit is a lot cheaper than the kits that have the two additional outlets. Can I use those and what do they do? Do they allow each generator to output double the wattage? Both of my inverters have 3,500 watts running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I noticed that some parallel kits have a set of extra outlets with two sets of cables that plug in to the inverters. Other kits is all wires and simply connect the inverters to each other with no additional outlets. I'm considering paralleling my Wen and Champion inverters but I don't know how each style of parallel kit works and what they do. The just-wires kit is a lot cheaper than the kits that have the two additional outlets. Can I use those and what do they do? Do they allow each generator to output double the wattage? Both of my inverters have 3,500 watts running.
Cables kits that have outlets do the same function as the basic cables with the benefit of an outlet that isn’t present on the generator panel.

Parallel ports are not protected by a breaker so any kit with a outlet box should have a breaker associated with the outlet. Unless the the outlet is rated for more amps then the pair of generators are capable of producing, in which case the inverters overload protection will trigger.

If I simply connect both of my eu7000s with a parallel cable, I’m limited to the amperage of the available outlets. The “biggest” outlet on the eu7000 is a l14-30 protected by a 30 amp breaker. I can by all means replace one of the l14-30s with a 50amp receptacle and 50 amp breaker and negate the need for an external box with 50amp outlet.

@iowagold have you ever replaced a l14-30 with a 50amp On an eu7000.
 

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Cables kits that have outlets do the same function as the basic cables with the benefit of an outlet that isn’t present on the generator panel.

Parallel ports are not protected by a breaker so any kit with a outlet box should have a breaker associated with the outlet. Unless the the outlet is rated for more amps then the pair of generators are capable of producing, in which case the inverters overload protection will trigger.

If I simply connect both of my eu7000s with a parallel cable, I’m limited to the amperage of the available outlets. The “biggest” outlet on the eu7000 is a l14-30 protected by a 30 amp breaker. I can by all means replace one of the l14-30s with a 50amp receptacle and 50 amp breaker and negate the need for an external box with 50amp outlet.

@iowagold have you ever replaced a l14-30 with a 50amp On an eu7000.
When two inverters are connected via a parallel cable, do they load share the entire wattage of both inverters combined?

I had planned to run both of my inverters separately during an outage, but I wonder if it would be beneficial to parallel them. That way, the entire 7k watts is available across the board to everything connected to both generators, am I right? I don't really know much about paralleling inverters, especially about how it works and how it's beneficial.
 

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When two inverters are connected via a parallel cable, do they load share the entire wattage of both inverters combined?

I had planned to run both of my inverters separately during an outage, but I wonder if it would be beneficial to parallel them. That way, the entire 7k watts is available across the board to everything connected to both generators, am I right? I don't really know much about paralleling inverters, especially about how it works and how it's beneficial.
This video shows a smaller Honda paralleled with a larger Honda. It looks like the larger Honda will take what the smaller one can offer and make up the rest on that leg.

Paralleling, using a proper parallel kit (unlike in the video above), is probably better than running two separate feeds since this will allow the generators the ability to handle load spikes better...if nothing else.
 

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I cannot find this in stock anywhere, it was readily available last year but has since been discontinued. GE had a slick metal “in use” inlet box too but also discontinued it.

GE 50 Amp Twist Lock Power Inlet-T050N - The Home Depot
I just bought the GE T050N box from Home Depot. It is still available, but goes out of stock frequently. The Midwest box appears to be very similar to the GE box, but priced higher.

Edit: Or get this GE 30 amp box that is in stock at @$30 less and swap the inlet receptacle. The dimensions etc. are identical for the 20, 30 and 50 amp GE boxes.
GE T030N
 

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Honda should offer an EU7000is companion unit (like they do on the EU2200i) where the companion unit has a 50A outlet for parallel operation with another EU7000is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When two inverters are connected via a parallel cable, do they load share the entire wattage of both inverters combined?

I had planned to run both of my inverters separately during an outage, but I wonder if it would be beneficial to parallel them. That way, the entire 7k watts is available across the board to everything connected to both generators, am I right? I don't really know much about paralleling inverters, especially about how it works and how it's beneficial.
The neat thing about paralleling inverter gens is that they find balance. Identical generators will equally carry a load. Mismatched generators also find balance between their rated loads. Some fair better then others. For instance my eu2000 and eu1000 play nice together for the most part. Running together carrying a 1500watt load the eu1000 takes about 500watts and the eu2000 takes about 1000watts.

My eu2200 and eu1000 do not split the load as well. The little eu1000 works too hard and takes around 700watts to the eu2000s 800watts. My eu2000 and 2200 split it down the middle.
 

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The neat thing about paralleling inverter gens is that they find balance. Identical generators will equally carry a load. Mismatched generators also find balance between their rated loads. Some fair better then others. For instance my eu2000 and eu1000 play nice together for the most part. Running together carrying a 1500watt load the eu1000 takes about 500watts and the eu2000 takes about 1000watts.

My eu2200 and eu1000 do not split the load as well. The little eu1000 works too hard and takes around 700watts to the eu2000s 800watts. My eu2000 and 2200 split it down the middle.
Both my Wen and my Champion are 3500w, running. The Wen has 4000 surge, the Champion 4250 surge. I'm thinking they should match well when connected.

Is there any brand of parallel kit I should be looking at? I saw that Honda makes a kit. Most of the kits I've seen have the additional outlets built in. I don't need those, however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just bought the GE T050N box from Home Depot. It is still available, but goes out of stock frequently. The Midwest box appears to be very similar to the GE box, but priced higher.

Edit: Or get this GE 30 amp box that is in stock at @$30 less and swap the inlet receptacle. The dimensions etc. are identical for the 20, 30 and 50 amp GE boxes.
GE T030N
That’s great idea. A cs6375 flanged inlet is about $30, all together it still ends up quite a bit cheaper then the Midwest box.


Honda should offer an EU7000is companion unit (like they do on the EU2200i) where the companion unit has a 50A outlet for parallel operation with another EU7000is.
That would have been handy. The new 7000s have so much going on in the control panel these days. I’d love to omit the CO detection unit and use the space For another outlet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Both my Wen and my Champion are 3500w, running. The Wen has 4000 surge, the Champion 4250 surge. I'm thinking they should match well when connected.

Is there any brand of parallel kit I should be looking at? I saw that Honda makes a kit. Most of the kits I've seen have the additional outlets built in. I don't need those, however.
Honda’s insulated banana plug ports are round, looks like the Wen is too, but the champions are square. You might have to get creative connecting them.
 
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