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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have an aprox. 60-70' Hickory, 45" circumference leaning 15 degrees out of plumb toward the 9 o' clock position.

It needs to fall toward the 2 o' clock position, to miss house eave, house, and treatment plant.

Plan: place a strap as high as my 20' extension level will allow me to (at 2 o' clock position) with attached chain.

The end of the chain will connect to a winch cable via the base of an oak tree w/ snatch block and cable, then continue to vehicle where electric winch is mounted. (may have to anchor vehicle w/ another one for stability.

Put tension on the tree w/ winch to pull it toward the landing area.

Then, do notch in the tree followed by back cut.

Concern: With tension on the tree w/ winch line, I'm trying to visualize the effect it will have after the notch is cut and the back cut begins.

Also, how much tension should be placed on the tree because once it starts to fall, I wont have time to run back to the winch control to put more tension to insure it falls in the desired location. Thanks
 

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hummmm
snap some pix for us!
how close to the house is the base of the tree?

you are better off renting a basket lift and direct fall small chunks..
there is a lot of weight in a large tree like that...
strip off all of the small branches (under 6 inch)
and chunk that as you cut.
maybe 18 inch long chunks...
and use a ground guy with a rope to lower them.

if you are not a regular saw guy..... you might better off hiring it done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply iowagold...base is 7' away: basket lift unfortunately wont fit in the location: hiring it out is out of the question...only one who will take into account all the variables is me so I will solicit some aide but that is the extent of it.

If I can winch the tree toward the fall zone and then cut it down, that will suffice.One 8K isn't enough but an addition 8K should get it leaning the right direction.

Thanks again.
 

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7 foot to a building is a rough job!
do it slow and safe!
i would not do it with out a basket machine...
but then again i am not a pole dancer!
darn trees like to move when you are up in them and cutting off part of the balance of the tree....

things do not go as planned...
unless you over plan.
we had our ground crew at 6 when we cut down the large 36 inch dia in the back yard.
basket machine to strip the trash off (below 6 inch dia)
and then chunked the rest as we went.
ground crew doing load out and break down as we went.
we were 10 foot from the neighbors garage....

lots of ropes.... and some real pucker moments..
but we did get it down!

trash tree.... hollow inside from ants... oh yea 2 triplex power lines too!
that was the main reason for dropping it... it was dropping branches on the lines during ice storms..
so it had to go!
15 large loads with a BIG dump trailer.
and we used a trash grapple on a big track skid loader to help on loading the large coins cut from the lower 30 foot.

do not count on using several small wenches to move or control it....
things shift and move....
and all of the force could end up on a single small wench...
watch some youtube videos on tree felling gone wrong!
and even the pro guys!
i have seen some pole dancers get shook up pretty bad doing the top cuts..
3 and 4 foot whip!
not good with a running saw!

there are math charts out there for the tree weight.
and add 10% to those to be on the safe side.

snap some pix for us please...
it will give us a better idea of the job...
 

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oh yea an electric wench will not pay out or reel in fast enough for a tree to fall.
you need 3-5 mph min.
that is where the ground crew comes in and smaller chunks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That was a precarious job with all the variables you were faced with...glad it worked out.

Mine has no lines, neighbors and tree is solid w/ exception to the increasing lean.

Have a neighbor (half mile away) who is going to take a look at it also.

I'll snap some photos and send...Thank you for your input.
 

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Go to YouTube and look at all the tree felling accidents caused by people who thought they knew what they were doing... there are a LOT of them.

You can't possibly know all the variables involved in felling a big tree like that, and you can't learn them them from an internet forum. If you attempt this, you are courting disaster. No excuses. This is a job for a professional. Period.
 

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Well if you have no options for a professional company then the best advice is slow and methodical. Also have some helpers. Never a good idea to do something like this alone. Overthink and overdo the winch points and weights involved. Make slow cuts and adjust the tension on the winches as you go. You will see the tree move and that will give you an idea if it’s going to fall as you want it to. Also a big tractor and heavy chains and straps would be helpful. Also be prepared if the tree splits open. Good luck and keep us posted. Be safe. Dutchy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A few pictures of what I'm working on...my neighbor came by and I'm going to change rigging around... placing snatch
block back to anchor tree, place SB and chain higher on anchor tree and winch from a different angle.

We'll see how it goes. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Go to YouTube and look at all the tree felling accidents caused by people who thought they knew what they were doing... there are a LOT of them.

You can't possibly know all the variables involved in felling a big tree like that, and you can't learn them them from an internet forum. If you attempt this, you are courting disaster. No excuses. This is a job for a professional. Period.
motormonkey just saw your post, Thanks for the reply and advice...have pushed over more trees than I have fell w/ a chain saw. Their unpredictable also even tho I was protected by the ROPS (roll over protective structure) tops can be dead and break prematurely during the push or in some cases when severing the roots.

I wasn't expecting to learn how to fell a tree on an internet forum, just wanting to cover any bases I may have over looked...I've cut a lot of trees but didn't do it as a business...well except early on (30 years ago) to supplement my income by selling them for firewood. Thanks again.



Well if you have no options for a professional company then the best advice is slow and methodical. Also have some helpers. Never a good idea to do something like this alone. Overthink and overdo the winch points and weights involved. Make slow cuts and adjust the tension on the winches as you go. You will see the tree move and that will give you an idea if it’s going to fall as you want it to. Also a big tractor and heavy chains and straps would be helpful. Also be prepared if the tree splits open. Good luck and keep us posted. Be safe. Dutchy
Dutchy491...Thanks for the reply and advice. I will have some help because hard to cut and keep tension on the winch
line from the distance between tree and controls. I have been thinking, accessing, re-accessing and examining the layout for several weeks, maybe more, because I was caught up in other unfinished projects. This one is next, so
just making sure I'm not overlooking anything...positioning the chain on the Hickory was pretty scary.
I replaced the strap w/ a chain because wasn't sure it (strap) was reliable for this job. A lot easier to whip that strap around the tree than that heavy chain, 20' plus up on a ladder. Will keep posted.
 

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A few pictures of what I'm working on...my neighbor came by and I'm going to change rigging around... placing snatch
block back to anchor tree, place SB and chain higher on anchor tree and winch from a different angle.

We'll see how it goes. Thanks
ty for the pix.
and the reason for not getting equipment in there?
too wet or too remote?
they make mats for the equipment.
get a 60 foot unit with a basket.
chunk the tree down
and rope it for controlled drop on the chunks.
yea BIG ground crew.
pro with the saw and in the basket for sure.
moss on the tree...
i would not trust spikes on it...
too damp.

yea these days $2000 to $5000 to drop a tree like that from a pro crew depending on how remote it is.
and they would earn every dime!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks iowagold...but ain't gonna happen while I'm alive...that tree will come down and I will be the one to do it.
You would have to understand my back ground and work ethic.
I will not pay someone that amount of money regarding something that I'm capable of doing. Just been a while since
I've been confronted with this challenge but I'm up for it. I will drop it and will burn hickory in my fireplace this winter...God willing. My USMC motto is: Adapt, Improvise & Overcome...to me as a Marine, you might not understand this but this is SOP (standard operating procedure). I will not ask someone else to do something I wouldn't do.
So in a nutshell, there you have it...might take me longer than someone who specializes in it but I will do it.
No disrespect to you and I appreciate your concern but my initial post was to make sure there was nothing I was over looking. Will post pictures of the result. With all respect and appreciation.
 

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i may to have skimmed this too fast.
what is the dia of the tree?
is it around 14.5 inches?

i thought it was at 45 inches dia (BIG tree)
same on this little guy i would not use spikes to get up in it...

as far as the height take a look at the calc
http://www.cif-ifc.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Clinometer.pdf
it might not be as high as we think.

or if it is that high that is why it is doing the lean!
too small of dia for the height...
not enough root structure.

yea i still would rope it down as small chunks
and use a tow be hind machine like a 50 foot biljax
they are quiet and light weight trailer tow machines.
way less than 300 / day rental
and that gives you a basket and a place to tie off to for safety.
i tow one of those with my little service truck.

there are also drive set spider machines...
a bit larger on the pick up to tow the trailer for those
a 3500 truck.

i guess i went to to many team building retreats..
I always phone at least one friend when doing larger heavy dangerous stuff.
and on a job like this at least 3 would be nice!
that ground crew for safety watch and clean up is always a good thing!!
and there is always a party the weekend after when the job is done for the crew!

if it was 80 feet from the house i would say just cut it down at the base...
but that close and if it is that tall...
it needs to be a controlled harvest.

stay safe first!
and that should be rule number one.
after all you are no good to any one if you are not alive.
 

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Fifteen degrees of lean is going to play a major factor in the direction that tree will want to fall, and it's not in your favor. That tree is heavy. You need a lot more solid anchor points to try to persuade the direction it's going to fall than a couple of vehicles.

I agree with Iowagold. If you must do it yourself, rope it down in pieces. That's what a pro would do.
FWIW, I had a tree taken down on my property that way and the tree company only charged me about a thousand to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i may to have skimmed this too fast.
what is the dia of the tree?
is it around 14.5 inches?

i thought it was at 45 inches dia (BIG tree)
same on this little guy i would not use spikes to get up in it...

as far as the height take a look at the calc
http://www.cif-ifc.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Clinometer.pdf
it might not be as high as we think.

or if it is that high that is why it is doing the lean!
too small of dia for the height...
not enough root structure.

yea i still would rope it down as small chunks
and use a tow be hind machine like a 50 foot biljax
they are quiet and light weight trailer tow machines.
way less than 300 / day rental
and that gives you a basket and a place to tie off to for safety.
i tow one of those with my little service truck.

there are also drive set spider machines...
a bit larger on the pick up to tow the trailer for those
a 3500 truck.

i guess i went to to many team building retreats..
I always phone at least one friend when doing larger heavy dangerous stuff.
and on a job like this at least 3 would be nice!
that ground crew for safety watch and clean up is always a good thing!!
and there is always a party the weekend after when the job is done for the crew!

if it was 80 feet from the house i would say just cut it down at the base...
but that close and if it is that tall...
my self it needs to be a controlled harvest.

stay safe first!
and that should be rule number one.
after all you are no good to any one if you are not alive.

[/QUOTE

iowagold...it is 45" circumference...Thanks, all outstanding advice from your post.
Don't have a Clinometer. our chimney is 40' off grade and the Hickory is at least 20 to 30' higher.
 

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and a new pair of shorts i bet!
whew!
yea glad when they are down...
i always try to cut back the trees so if a tornado happens they are not in the power lines or on the house.
in 2007-2008 I did 25 trees in the small back yard...
it was a real mess....
I was glad to have had plenty of help and a good ground crew for the large one.
and plenty of heavy equipment too!
the other trees were under 25 dia... silver maple etc.
the big 70 foot one was 36-40 dia at the bottom...
they were all damaged several times over the years not prime growth trees....
glad to have had them all down when the dechero hit last fall!!
others here did not fair so well...
lots of trees in the streets and power lines...
heck it blew a whole corner of a house off that was 6 blocks from me...
i just had 10k in roof damage here.
I got off lucky for sure!
it would to have been worse if the trees were still on the property...

planning on a good garage where the trees were.
 
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