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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Here is the priming solenoid with needle valve for fine tuning.

I like the idea of a single burst of priming fuel on a timer. It’s what we do when pressing the prime button on the KN demand regulator.

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cool on the kit!
i question the dia on the small hose restriction...
on the button manual prime i think it kicks the demand wide open on flow.
that is mostly a 7/16 opening.
then restricted at the carby plate or the load block...

so i would place the prime injection after the load block in your kit.
i will have to get some octal base timers on the tri fuel kit page.
does the us carbs kit have a choke output for the 7000is?
it is done inside the computer for the fi burst when cold temps it over fuels on the injection at first crank.
that is why i used fi on the big clients ng setup for the 7000is...
i could burst the NG injection for prime by the temp and the afr on the lamda system.
cool on the computer injection i used for that system.
and no power loss on ng as the computer did the fuel map.
it did a solid perfect 5500 watts on ng for 100 hours on the testing of the first one.

check your pm
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
cool on the kit!
i question the dia on the small hose restriction...
on the button manual prime i think it kicks the demand wide open on flow.
that is mostly a 7/16 opening.
then restricted at the carby plate or the load block...

so i would place the prime injection after the load block in your kit.
i will have to get some octal base timers on the tri fuel kit page.
does the us carbs kit have a choke output for the 7000is?
it is done inside the computer for the fi burst when cold temps it over fuels on the injection at first crank.
that is why i used fi on the big clients ng setup for the 7000is...
i could burst the NG injection for prime by the temp and the afr on the lamda system.
cool on the computer injection i used for that system.
and no power loss on ng as the computer did the fuel map.
it did a solid perfect 5500 watts on ng for 100 hours on the testing of the first one.

check your pm
Interesting idea to inject the primers fuel after the load block. If excessive cranking is needed to start the gen with the injection point before the load block, I’ll give after the block a shot.

There is no choke output is available. I’ll be tapping into the starter solenoid trigger wire at the GCU to trigger the primer solenoid.

Stand-alone FI for NG is pretty wild. What was the generator used for?
 

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client with cell towers on pipeline.
BIG bucks system.
they are still working on the solar part.
covid hit and no ultra high output solar panels that they liked for the system.
the solar plant was in woohan.
they are still shut down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
client with cell towers on pipeline.
BIG bucks system.
they are still working on the solar part.
covid hit and no ultra high output solar panels that they liked for the system.
the solar plant was in woohan.
they are still shut down.
I see, is it a backup solution, or for primary power?
 

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BIG numbers!!
real big
they changed the oil socks at 5000 hours.
just as a pm. and have changed the others socks at the 5 k hours.
the oil samples was just as clean as 200 hrs before the sock change.

the first gen is at 19k hours and still on the original 60 gallon batch of royal purple 5/30.
the numbers are perfect.
and still no blow by yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Gen A is out of the enclosure and in the garage. Redundancy FTW.

Finally getting underway with my propane upgrades. I put a few hours in tonight, more to come.

Teaser shot.
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Wow! One is none and two is one. But to someone who can't afford one EU7k, let alone two, I'll settle for one is some. lol

Are the exhaust ports in the works? Or are they just currently boarded up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Wow! One is none and two is one. But to someone who can't afford one EY7k, let alone two, I'll settle for one is some. lol

Are the exhaust ports in the works? Or are they just currently boarded up?
Yeah it’s a lot, I went a bit crazy.…No exhaust work at this stage. So far the ceramic fiber board aside from a little carbon staining is holding up perfect as a refractory board.

And what is that white stuff in the front of the enclosure?:LOL:
Yeah The white stuff is starting to fall. Im only 3 months behind on this project. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Job is 98% percent complete. Happy with the results.

I tapped into the starter solenoid trigger wire coming off the GCU for 12v. It’s the Black / white wire. The control panel was a solid ground point. Simple double nutted bolt is a common ground point for the Primer solenoid, Gas solenoid, and control relay. This kept the battery cavity which is already 10lbs of stuff in a 5lb bag a bit cleaner with less connections directly attached to the battery

The grey wires lead to the USCarb msk7000 piggy back controller. It interfaces with the GCU allowing an On-off-On toggle switch to select Gasoline or Alt fuel.


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The fuel solenoid valve is powered through a 4 pin micro relay. More compact then a typical bosch style relay which further helps packaging. USCarb made me a jumper harness to cleanly supply a 12v lead to trigger the relay. Although it’s very nice touch, it is Cumbersome in such a tight space. I may remove the jumper harness and simply Ttap the wire needed to trigger the relay.

All the leads are bullet or spade terminals with the female connectors being insulated. Pairs of wires have connectors opposing (male/female) each other so that the wires dont get mixed up in the case of future repairs to anything. 12v source leads have an insulated connector. Ground source connectors are the opposite.

Originally the add-a-fuse seemed like a slick source for power but I later realized that the feed wires for both fuses are surprisingly small gauge. The add a fuse would only fit in the existing 3amps location and Id rather not take any chances of drawing to much current through that existing circuit. I’ll use a standard fuse holder and hook right to battery power instead. Job for tomorrow.

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Exposed wiring is loomed and routed cleanly Though the photo sorta suggests otherwise. To further improve the clutter in the small battery cavity I rearranged a couple things and was able to reduce the length of hose from load block to snorkel by 3-1/2 inches. Shorter the better.

The blue wires are thermocouple leads Ive been using to get a read on my enclosures ventilation proficiency. I’m using an Amazon cheapo 4 probe handhed digital thermometer. In the front is Air inlet temp and inverter temp. I have a lead at the rear of the generator at the exhaust air outlet on the left side (when facing the generator) which is the hottest spot as this air passes over the muffler/catalytic converter. The forth lead I might snake into the generator for block temp or use for air temp at a higher point in the enclosure, I havnt decided.



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I got the generator all back together and changed the oil to Amsoils 10w-30 small engine oil. Before now only Honda power equipment 10w-30 oil has been used. FINALLY, I installed the magnetic drain plug I’ve had for almost a year.

The additions will improve safety and enhance propane cold starting considerably. The main fuel solenoid is triggered to open only when key power is on with the fuel selector in the ALT fuel position. The fuel solenoid closes immediately when the generator is turned off by either the main key or my remote controller. The solenoid also when the generator goes to sleep if power has been on for a few minutes but was never started or the generator quit and left unattended for the same few minutes.

Im really looking forward to getting this thing back into the enclosure and taking it for a test run, most likely this coming weekend.
 

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Yeah, I heard the EU7000is on the ISS is on the fritz again..... vacuum issues.

But seriously, good work on those modifications. I can imagine myself doing the same. First thing to do is get an EU7000is..... nahh... never gonna happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Fuse holder installed, time for a beer.

I’m thinking the next time I pull the front assembly apart I’m going to use one of the 2 remaining fuse positions in the factory fuse block. The remote wire connector and terminals are sumitomo, so the fuse block likely is as well. If I can figure out what size terminals are being used it should be a simple add on.


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make sure to use dielectric grease on all of the connections as well as the battery terms
and on the legs of the blade fuses... if they are the aluminum legs on the fuses they tend to corrode over time.

nice on the prime sol mod!

one other mod we did was to use female on all of the LP / NG hose ends and then use a double male dog bone to connect...
that way the the female has that plunger valve inside to hold the vapor charge to cut down on the prime needed when you pull out the system to work on it like oil changes etc.
unless the LP / NG hoses are long enough to reach...

easy mod for later!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Update. Success!

It’s 10 degrees F (-10 degrees C for the Canucks 😉)

The generator is back in the enclosure. The primers adjuster arrived set to 2 turns out I left it there for now. The generator Fired up fist attempt but sounded like it needed a bit more fuel from the primer. It’s now at 3 turns out, I’ll check tomorrow after a nice cold soaking to see if that did the trick.

The load block was last adjusted last October on a 50F degree day. I fattened it up 3/4 turn and it’s purring like a kitten. Although best practice is to adjust the block at rated load to as lean as possible I’ve found that a nice smooth zero load setting plus 1/2 turn fat quickly gets me into a good base window. I’ll fine tune it at a later point.
 
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