Job is 98% percent complete. Happy with the results.
I tapped into the starter solenoid trigger wire coming off the GCU for 12v. It’s the Black / white wire. The control panel was a solid ground point. Simple double nutted bolt is a common ground point for the Primer solenoid, Gas solenoid, and control relay. This kept the battery cavity which is already 10lbs of stuff in a 5lb bag a bit cleaner with less connections directly attached to the battery
The grey wires lead to the USCarb msk7000 piggy back controller. It interfaces with the GCU allowing an On-off-On toggle switch to select Gasoline or Alt fuel.
The fuel solenoid valve is powered through a 4 pin micro relay. More compact then a typical bosch style relay which further helps packaging. USCarb made me a jumper harness to cleanly supply a 12v lead to trigger the relay. Although it’s very nice touch, it is Cumbersome in such a tight space. I may remove the jumper harness and simply Ttap the wire needed to trigger the relay.
All the leads are bullet or spade terminals with the female connectors being insulated. Pairs of wires have connectors opposing (male/female) each other so that the wires dont get mixed up in the case of future repairs to anything. 12v source leads have an insulated connector. Ground source connectors are the opposite.
Originally the add-a-fuse seemed like a slick source for power but I later realized that the feed wires for both fuses are surprisingly small gauge. The add a fuse would only fit in the existing 3amps location and Id rather not take any chances of drawing to much current through that existing circuit. I’ll use a standard fuse holder and hook right to battery power instead. Job for tomorrow.
Exposed wiring is loomed and routed cleanly Though the photo sorta suggests otherwise. To further improve the clutter in the small battery cavity I rearranged a couple things and was able to reduce the length of hose from load block to snorkel by 3-1/2 inches. Shorter the better.
The blue wires are thermocouple leads Ive been using to get a read on my enclosures ventilation proficiency. I’m using an Amazon cheapo 4 probe handhed digital thermometer. In the front is Air inlet temp and inverter temp. I have a lead at the rear of the generator at the exhaust air outlet on the left side (when facing the generator) which is the hottest spot as this air passes over the muffler/catalytic converter. The forth lead I might snake into the generator for block temp or use for air temp at a higher point in the enclosure, I havnt decided.
I got the generator all back together and changed the oil to Amsoils 10w-30 small engine oil. Before now only Honda power equipment 10w-30 oil has been used. FINALLY, I installed the magnetic drain plug I’ve had for almost a year.
The additions will improve safety and enhance propane cold starting considerably. The main fuel solenoid is triggered to open only when key power is on with the fuel selector in the ALT fuel position. The fuel solenoid closes immediately when the generator is turned off by either the main key or my remote controller. The solenoid also when the generator goes to sleep if power has been on for a few minutes but was never started or the generator quit and left unattended for the same few minutes.
Im really looking forward to getting this thing back into the enclosure and taking it for a test run, most likely this coming weekend.